Table saw rip fence standard procedure and safety

[Bill Wells]

For standard ripping on a table saw, should the desired cut-off be against the fence, or on the outside of the board? That is, if I need a 1" strip cut from a 12" board, is it best to have the 1" piece between the blade and fence, or on the outside of the board? Thanks!

[Stan Krupowies]

The "keeper" piece is against the fence and the remainder is on the outside of the blade.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

The "keeper" piece is against the fence and the remainder is on the outside of the blade.

I assume that it would be difficult to set the fence to width and then cut off a piece that is exactly 1". That said, it is difficult for me to have a 1" piece against the fence if I want to also push that 1" piece through unless I remove the blade guard. My favorite push stick is made from 1/2" ply, so it is not the width of the play that is the problem. So, how do you push that 1" through against the fence?

[Art Mann]

Everyone needs to remain within their own comfort level doing high risk operations. I would rip a 1 inch piece off a wider board with little anxiety. However, I would use a properly designed commercial or home made push stick. I would adjust the blade so it barely protrudes through the wood. I might also use one or more feather boards to hold the material against the fence and table and prevent kickback. It depends a lot on the situation.

[Troy Turner]

I've always set my fence to the desired width and used push blocks and sticks to go from there. I've seen others though set up a jig in the left miter slot, set it at the desired width, and keep moving the fence over. Each time the stock touches the jig, lock down the fence and push through.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I used to put those thin strips next to the fence but always had problems/concerns doing it.

Recently I built a thin strip ripping jig for which I found plans at WoodsmithShop.com. and the thin strips go to the "free" side and the scrap is against the fence.

It works like a charm.

When making multiple thin strips of the same width, you set the jig for the first one and then rip, move the fence, rip, move the fence, rip, move the fence....no more measuring required.

I have a friend who makes rosaries. A couple times a year he comes over to my shop. In an hour or two we can rip, half-lap joint and cut to length enough 3/16" thick x 5/16 wide strips to the two required lengths to make about 100 rosaries. The need to rip these thin strips is what necessitated my finding a better way to do it.

[Darius Ferlas]

3/4", which is just about as wide as the thickness of my shop made push "stick", is as narrow as I will go. Less then that and I'll take the left of blade pieces, a hair wider and then put them through my planer to get the desired size.

[Mark W Pugh]

Or this product. You can cut 1/4" slices with the appropriate foot. Just another option. I do like Ken's jig.

http://microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/index.shtml

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Or this product. You can cut 1/4" slices with the appropriate foot. Just another option. I do like Ken's jig.

http://microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/index.shtml
Forgot about that.... And I own it...

For thin, I generally use a sled with a stop block to set the width to the left of the blade.

[Richard Amabile]

Ken:
I need to rip some thin stock to laminate chair back slats and the approach you mentioned sounds like it might just do the job more safely than some other approaches. I checked the WoodsmithShop.com site and could not find the plans you mentioned. Can you tell me more precisely where to look for them on the site?

Thanks
Richard A.

[Chris Padilla]

Ken:
I need to rip some thin stock to laminate chair back slats and the approach you mentioned sounds like it might just do the job more safely than some other approaches. I checked the WoodsmithShop.com site and could not find the plans you mentioned. Can you tell me more precisely where to look for them on the site?

Thanks
Richard A.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18056

I bet you could make one staring at the pics for a few minutes.

However, chair back slats tend to be on the ~2" wide or thereabouts size. I'd find that uncomfortable to rip on the table saw. A bandsaw would be much better IMO.

[Jim Rimmer]

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18056

I bet you could make one staring at the pics for a few minutes.

However, chair back slats tend to be on the ~2" wide or thereabouts size. I'd find that uncomfortable to rip on the table saw. A bandsaw would be much better IMO.

I have one of those and it works great. I make a lot of jigs but for $20 I would (and did) buy this one. I don't think materials and whatever my time is worth would be less than $20 unless you might just really be in to making jigs. I'm not sure the OP was talking about making multiple parts; if he is then I would recommend this. If not, as stated, it's kind of a personal comfort issue. I use a narrow push stick on the right of the blade.

[Jeff Duncan]

One other easy way to do them is to just push through with a push stick regardless of width. That's why you always make your push sticks out of wood, plastic, or other easily cut material;)

I use my saws daily though so thin strips don't bother me. If one is worried then by all means rig up a jig....a little extra safety is always good:D

good luck,
JeffD

[Bill Wells]

Thanks for all your great input on this subject. I like Ken's reply, "The "keeper" piece is against the fence and the remainder is on the outside of the blade." But I get the feeling that often it is a judgment call. Since we got to discussing jigs, here is one of mine, published in Shop Notes, Jan/Feb 2011 Issue 115. If anyone is interested, I have several pages of details.261441

[Julie Moriarty]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKScQnWpUSE

[Julie Moriarty]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRc0sX0m0F8

[glenn bradley]

That guy has no business putting his hand where it is at 2:22. I would not take this as good advice on ripping thin strips. The whole Rube Goldberg Vacu-fence is a bit . . . um, . . . not sure :confused: The positions of his body and arms at 2:26 gives me the heebies but, he seems comfortable enough :).

I have a similar rig that does not require you to reach near or past the blade. The Rockler version didn't work out too well for me as the weight of my fence would botch the setting if I accidentally nudged the material into it when resetting the fence for the next cut. Usable but, finicky for heavier fences.

I'll vote a +1 on the Grr-Ripper although I know these give some other folks the heebies due to the passing of your hand over the blade similar to how you move material over a jointer head. The solution there is a pair of Grr-Rippers and keeping your hands and blocks away from the blade. I have the 1/8" leg for the Grr-Ripper and can rip 1/8" strips with confidence.

Thinner than 1/8" and I use a fence stand off similar to the Vac-o-matic shown in the video but, more basic. Above all you need to be comfortable with the method you use. 1" between blade and fence with a push block (not stick) is no problem in my shop. Others draw the line with wider stock, others put their hands right on in there like in the video. Do what is comfortable and safe for you.

[Chris Padilla]

If you have an Incra fence system...it is indexed every 1/32" so you wouldn't even need the Rockler jig. Just move the fence the appropriate amount...cut away.

Incidentally, the Shop Notes version shown in the posted pic seems to show the thin strip being cut WHILE the jig is in place. Personally, I would remove the jig and then cut.

[Rod Sheridan]

I assume that it would be difficult to set the fence to width and then cut off a piece that is exactly 1". That said, it is difficult for me to have a 1" piece against the fence if I want to also push that 1" piece through unless I remove the blade guard. My favorite push stick is made from 1/2" ply, so it is not the width of the play that is the problem. So, how do you push that 1" through against the fence?

The problem isn't with your guard, it's with your fence.

For narrow rips you use a low fence which provides room for your pushstick.

If it's solid wood and not ply then you need a short low fence.

Have a look at a Euro slider fence, or a Delta Unifence. You can make add ons for your fence to simulate the Euro fence............Rod.

P.S. For a great thin strip ripping jig see Nissim's post in this thread.




http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?73856-Cutting-2mm-(5-64-quot-)-strips&highlight=vacuum+sled

[Bob Faris]

Ken:
I need to rip some thin stock to laminate chair back slats and the approach you mentioned sounds like it might just do the job more safely than some other approaches. I checked the WoodsmithShop.com site and could not find the plans you mentioned. Can you tell me more precisely where to look for them on the site.



http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/209/tablesawrippingjig.pdf

[Floyd Mah]

Get one of these: GRR-Ripper (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10477&site=ROCKLER). I shamelessly made one many years ago, but when used properly, your fingers are kept away from the blade, the work is firmly held against the fence and the footplate has a notch to push the workpiece along.

Also, I adapted a couple of Board B (http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-W1105-Board-Buddies-Green/dp/B0000223VJ)uddies (http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-W1104-Board-Buddies-Yellow/dp/B0000223VK/ref=pd_cp_hi_0) to my fence. When properly adjusted, these allow the workpiece to move forward only. If the axis is canted towards the fence slightly, the workpiece is pushed into the fence as well as in the forward direction. I have one in front of the blade and one behind the blade. It's a great arrangement when you are planning to run a lot of pieces and can take the time to set it up. Best used with a feather board. I have a feather board that fastens down with magnets so that it is easily positioned. With the board buddies, the workpiece is absolutely immobilized against the tablesaw top so that it doesn't creep with the saw vibration if you were to let go of the workpiece. Note that there are two versions. I used the yellow ones which only permit the work to move forward. The green version allows rotation in either direction and is meant for shapers.

Anyway, these are two things that I have used for years and would highly recommend as very inexpensive solutions to improve safety.

[allan kuntz]

I did a segmented turning that required thin strips and used a procedure described in Malcom Tibbets book. If you take a piece of MDF the depth of your saw by about 20". My table saw is a standard 27". Set your fence any distance that you feel safe putting your hand between the fence and the blade. Rip the MDF just until it covers the entire top of your saw and clamp in place. You now will have a table top of MDF with a zero clearance insert. Now take a piece of any material the same thickness as the thin strips you want to cut and and at least as long as the length of your thin strips and rip the entire length. Now just move your fence the distance that the thin strips should be and lock down. Now take the piece that you ripped and the piece you want the thin strips to be cut from. Set the two pieces edge to edge and just using masking tape, tape the two pieces together on both sides and cut. You never have to move the fence. I know this sounds complicated but it works perfectly and is safe because you have a safe distance between the fence and the blade. It is a lot of taping but is safe and accurate
I hope this make sense

Al
.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Ken:
I need to rip some thin stock to laminate chair back slats and the approach you mentioned sounds like it might just do the job more safely than some other approaches. I checked the WoodsmithShop.com site and could not find the plans you mentioned. Can you tell me more precisely where to look for them on the site?

Thanks
Richard A.


http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18056

I bet you could make one staring at the pics for a few minutes.

However, chair back slats tend to be on the ~2" wide or thereabouts size. I'd find that uncomfortable to rip on the table saw. A bandsaw would be much better IMO.

Rich,

The device Chris links to at Rockler is the same as the one I built. Frankly, it cost me nearly as much just for the bearing at a local hardware store.