Kitchen Island Stability

[denis tuomey]

I just started making a kitchen island out of Pecan with a 24" x 36" x 2.5" edgegrain, butt joint, butcher block top made with Walnut, Cherry and Sepele. The cabinet is 20" W x 32" L . All this will set on a base that is 2.5"H x 15"W x 32" L, overall height is 36". Am now wondering if the 15" width of the base will be wide enough to support it if any excess weight is put on the edge of the top. This is my first time to make something like this, was wondering if anyone with Kitchen Island experience might have some input. Appreciate all thoughts/ comments.

[Mark Bolton]

Fairly narrow. If your not wanting to a anchor to te floor and don't mind the weight you could add some ballast down in the toe kick. Bricks work well. I've done this on lateral files that weren't going to be anchored to the wall.

[Jeff Duncan]

Islands get anchored to the floor so you should be fine. If for some reason you don't want it fastened to the floor, I would not build it like what your describing as it will certainly be way too tip prone.

good luck,
JeffD

[johnny means]

I wouldn't build that with that small a footprint unless it could be anchored to the floor. I doubt there is enough space to ballast that adequately, unless you used lead weights. Remember, it could be tipped with a good push, also.

[Mark Bolton]

Not defending the ballast option because its a less than desireable solution (though sometimes the best) but the foot print would allow 150lbs or more in the kick (if there is one). Plus the contents of the cab..

If you've never tried it, build a 3' tall box 20"x 30". Fill the bottom with one course of fire brick or another heavy fired brick, and try to tip it over. Better yet try to bump it over. You'll have a hard time getting it to rock.

[Myk Rian]

Why a base? Just make the whole thing one piece. You really don't need a toe-kick area under it.

[denis tuomey]

Thanks for everyones input, that gave me some ideas, I put the toe-kick on it to match up with his existing kitchen cabs, since I have already cut the frame height I figure what I can do is make a base to match the cabinet size less 3/8" rabbit around the top edge about 1.5" down, set the cabinet down over the base n attach, so the base will set back 3/8" from the cab. That will give me 19.25" vs 15".

[Jim Andrew]

I'd still anchor it to the floor. Position the island where you want it, then draw around it and allow for the thickness of sides, ends. Screw 2x4's to floor, set the island over the base and screw to the 2x4's very low so that base shoe will cover the screws.

[Lee Schierer]

Thanks for everyones input, that gave me some ideas, I put the toe-kick on it to match up with his existing kitchen cabs, since I have already cut the frame height I figure what I can do is make a base to match the cabinet size less 3/8" rabbit around the top edge about 1.5" down, set the cabinet down over the base n attach, so the base will set back 3/8" from the cab. That will give me 19.25" vs 15".

If you make the end panels the full 24" width and have tehm go all the way to the floor, your base as far as tipping is concerned will be 24 X 36. You will still have your toe kick along the 36" sides.