Chainsaw Capacity Question

[Glen Blanchard]

I am about to purchase my first chainsaw. I know very little about them and am trying to decide on what bar length to get. I'd like to ignore for this conversation talking about the various manufacturers and keep this related to bar length only. I am considering both a 14" and an 18" and am torn between the two. I expect folks to chime in asking what size logs I will be cutting up. Certainly a valid question (and one that I don't have a definitive answer to as I have done very little harvesting). I imagine I will primarily be cutting up logs from trees which have already been felled. With that in mind, how long of a tree trunk can a 14" chainsaw safely cut in half? My intuition tells me (that if approached from both ends) something like a little less than double the length of the bar, so perhaps 26" or so. How valid is this assumption? What about the diameter? About the same?

Thanks in advance.

[Scott Hackler]

Glen,

I bought an 18" Husky because it was a good balance between power and weight. I have cut up logs that were 30" by approaching them from both sides. My lathe is a 16" swing and after ripping a fallen log with my 18" bar, I still have waist on the ends of the log for checking after sealing them up. That is the largest size I need and so that was a big decision for me to buy the 18" bar.

The more important suggestion is to make sure and buy your saw from a dealer, not the big box stores. The saws at those big stores are light duty and are NOT the same as the ones at a dealer. As far as brand... that is a can of worms, but a good Stihl, Huskvarna, Echo.... you really can't go wrong. And you'll appreciate the real power in a HD rated saw the first time you start ripping a log!

[Michelle Rich]

if you are ripping, it would be best to put on a rip chain..takes lots of power to rip vs. cross cut. I cross cut mine then smack 'em with an axe/maul to split them. I have never used more than a 16 inch bar & I built my house with a chainsaw. You can crosscut a smidge less than 32 inches in diam.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ditto what Scott said. Everyone has their favorites but Stihl, Echo, Husky are all good saws. I have a Stihl with a 18" chain. I have had 2 chainsaws in 25 yrs and the current one just replaced my 21 yr old Stihl. I bought Stihl because I have a dealer here in town that can service it.

[curtis rosche]

I would say buy one that would handle both sized bars. Buy as much saw as you think you will need and then some, and get a large and small bar for it. Buying a different length bar is alot cheaper than a different saw.

Get a 24 inch bar saw. Buy a 12inch bar that will fit it, now you have a bar for long rips and big trees, and a smaller bar for trimming blanks down and more precise work

[Jason Roehl]

How tall and how strong are you? Bigger saws get heavier pretty quickly, but there is an advantage--if you're cutting felled trees, the longer bar means you don't have to bend over as far to cut off limbs that are near/on the ground. I'm 6'0" tall, and I find that a 20" bar is pretty optimum. I've used a 16" bar for the same thing, and my back hurt more afterward, even though it was a smaller saw. Years ago, I bought a Husqvarna 372XP (20" bar), which was the highest power-to-weight ratio they sold at the time (and a pro saw). It's heavy, but I can get a LOT of wood cut in the time it takes to wear me out. In fact, about the same amount of wood in about 1/3 the time that I used to cut with a 20" bar on a lesser, lighter saw.

By the time you're into the 14" length, you'd be looking at one of two things, generally: either a professional climbing saw or a cheap, light-duty homeowner job. I think you'd probably be happier with a "farm-duty" level of saw and a 18-20" bar, depending again on your size and strength.

And, you're right about being able to cut not quite double the length of the bar, BUT, the smaller the saw, the harder that may be with the lower power. Saws that bog down under their own weight will wear you out quickly because you have to hold the saw back to keep it from stalling the chain. So will large saws that you can lever into the cut with the bumper spikes if you really lean into the cut (not advised!)

[John Bailey]

I think I got good advice when I bought my first saw. My dealer told me to start with a 16" bar until I got comfortable with it. He said less than that was too limiting and a larger bar for a beginner could be a safety problem. I ended up with a Stihl Farm Boss 290 with a 16" bar. It is a great choice for an all around size.

I now use a 20" bar on the Stihl and a 24" bar on my larger Husqvarna 576XP. These two saws do everything you would want.

My suggestion would be to go with the 18" bar, given the two choices you've mentioned.

[Roger Chandler]

I would get at least an 18" bar.......it is a good all around compromise......you can do smaller stuff without it being too heavy and it will also do some larger trees as well..........but not a steady diet of huge wood............for most turners 18" is a pretty good size.

Of course.........I have 3 saws.......one Husqvarna with 28" bar [a professional logging saw] a 20" Husqvarna and a 16" for light work like limbing.

[Glen Blanchard]

Sounds like the 18" is where I should begin. Thanks for the great advice!

[Ronald Blue]

You definitely don't want to buy a 24" even if it can be fit with a 12" bar. It will wear you out fast if all your cutting is small diameters. Engine size/weight is proportionate to what size bar it will handle properly. A 16" is a good starter size. Good power but not overly heavy. You can at least cut double the bar length. Especially since you aren't sure what you are even cutting. I don't know what you have in your area for trees and how big. It is nice if the saw has bucking teeth as it makes it easier on you. Especially in bigger pieces. A good dealer will be able to give you advice too. You also want hearing protection and maybe a face shield screen/hard hat. Some of these are integral. Good luck.

[Jeremy Hamaker]

One more opinion. I would not go smaller than 16" in any case.

[Richard Coers]

I would not get anything less than 20", but I do work with a lot of urban trees. It is so much nicer to go through crotch pieces with the bigger bar. The saw is happier and cuts faster if the tip of the bar is out of the wood when cutting. A buried bar takes a lot more effort during cutting. I finally bought a second saw with a 36" bar to get through those big logs. Don't regret it one bit. No need for a rip chain, just lay the cut disc on it's side and cut with the grain. It makes long strings, but the saw drops right through it. I also am not a fan of the safety chains they provide on new saws. They cut way too slowly for me. The safety chain comes with the saw, but buy a traditional chain before you buy more safety chains. Also buy a good file system and files. Touching up the chain quite freqently makes a huge difference.

[Michael Mayo]

I would not get anything less than 20", but I do work with a lot of urban trees. It is so much nicer to go through crotch pieces with the bigger bar. The saw is happier and cuts faster if the tip of the bar is out of the wood when cutting. A buried bar takes a lot more effort during cutting. I finally bought a second saw with a 36" bar to get through those big logs. Don't regret it one bit. No need for a rip chain, just lay the cut disc on it's side and cut with the grain. It makes long strings, but the saw drops right through it. I also am not a fan of the safety chains they provide on new saws. They cut way too slowly for me. The safety chain comes with the saw, but buy a traditional chain before you buy more safety chains. Also buy a good file system and files. Touching up the chain quite freqently makes a huge difference.

Whatever saw you end up buying the very first thing you should learn to do is sharpen your own chain! This is the single most important thing you need to know how to do when using a chain saw. If you just barely nick the chain on the ground it will need to be sharpened. I bought an Oregon chain jig that mounts on the bar and guides the file when you are sharpening and it made sharpening a much quicker and enjoyable (if you can say that about sharpening?) then trying to do it by eye.

I have two Stihl saws. One is a 025 with an 18" bar and I just last fall picked up a Stihl 044 with a 20' bar and that saw is a beast. The 025 was a saw my father purchased some time ago for light duty work around the yard and it is a nice saw but when it comes to cutting up big lumber the 044 eats everything put in front of it and never bogs or complains. It is significantly heavier than the 025 but it is also a much larger saw at 77cc's. When it comes to cutting big lumber you can't beat displacement. The 025 18" bar has cut some pretty big stuff as well but it has a much tougher time doing it and it takes a lt longer to make the same cut that the 044 can do in half the amount of time and effort.

[Jim Phipps]

A 14" b&c is pretty limiting. Yes you can cut larger logs from both sides but I have found that its not always practical/safe to access both sides of a felled tree like that. I started with a 16" and then bought another saw with a 25" b&c years later to cut bigger stuff. I'll tell you that the longer bar requires a lot more skill to handle safely. I think an 18" is reasonable and may be all you ever need. That being said, I'm really happy with my 16" and 25" combo so if you think you may step up later then a 14" or 16" might be a good start.
As an aside, we woodturners may handle chainsaws often, but not for long periods of time typically. Don't get sucked into believing you can make a saw do what a firewood cutter or pro tree guy can do. Play it safe, learn proper techniques and keep your skill level in perspective. I've been laughed at for wearing chaps. I just respond " I'd wear a whole chainsaw suit if I could find one".

[Isaac Carlson]

I grew up with a 20" bar and would hesitate to go shorter except for limbing or cutting very small stuff. Unfortunately that saw was taken by a relative when my grandmother died.
I loved that saw and now have my own. Stihl is the only brand I like. Yeah, I know, hornets nest.... I have a 390 and it wears a 20" bar unless I am cutting bigger stuff, then it wears a 28" bar. It has no problem pulling either bar in hardwood. I have opened up the muffler to let it breathe and run cooler, but that is a must on ANY saw. I have also modified the oiler. A stock saw can be fun, but they are more fun once you set them free. Make sure you get a rim sprocket. They run smoother and it is MUCH cheaper to replace a $5 rim than a $35 spur sprocket.

[Jack Mincey]

As a high school shop teacher and on my own I've cut thousands of blanks out over the last 10 years. Bar length is not as important as the size of the power head. I have a stihl 21 that I got for limbing trees and such. It came with a 16" bar. it is not powerful enough to prep blanks. The lack of power makes me work much harder which makes it a little more dangerous than my larger saws. So what I'm saying is if you want a 16" bar have it put on a saw that is designed for at least a 20" bar. I also recommend buying from a dealer not a big box store. They will give you good advise and also carry the pro line of saws that are better in the long run. I use a husky 372xp for all my blank prep. The power it has makes it cut through blanks like butter. As far as brand I like both Stihl and Husky. Don't think one can go wrong with either brand. A ripping chain is not needed for prepping blanks. They are Designed to cut with the grain from the end of the log such as one does when making boards with an Alaska saw mill. Simply cut log to a length of less than the bar length of you saw and place it on it side and rip it. You might have to stop and clear the saw dust from around you saw a few times, but it will cut up the blank with ease. I make shavings in this way to put in my hen house. Jack

[Mike Cruz]

Glen, there is no one correct answer to your question. Just a lot of opinions. Here's mine:

When you cut up a long, for turning, it can beat you up. Simple. So, get something that will beat you up as little as possible. Will a 14" bar cut a 28" diameter tree? Yes. Will the cuts line up perfectly? Not likely. Is that putting a lot of undue stress on the chainsaw? Yes. Will the chainsaw last as long as it should? No. Will that entail burying the tip of the bar into the wood? Yes. Is that more of a hazard? Yes. Might you have to replace you bar more often by doing that because of wear on the sprocket on the end of the bar? Yes.

In my opinion, a 14" bar is good for cutting 11-12" thick logs. An 18" is good for 16-17" logs. A 20" for 18-19" logs.

What do I have? A 20" bar (I won't tell you the brand since you asked to keep that out of the equation...though brand DOES matter. A 20" bar on a Stihl or Husky will last longer and be much more comfortable for the user than say a 20" bar on a Poulan. But, what you get is up to you.). Do I cut larger than 20" blanks with it? Sure! Do I fell trees larger than 20" with it? Oh, yeah! What size SHOULD I have? Probably a 28-30". But I'm not putting out $1000 for a chainsaw. I can't justify that.

Bottom line is to get a saw that is just about the size of the swing of your lathe (maybe a little bigger). If you've got a 16" swing, an 18" saw will likely do you just fine. Mainly because, as Scott pointed out, if you want a 16" blank, you'll be cutting your logs to about 18" long (if you can get a full 16" blank from its width). I can say from experience that it isn't fun to have to "continue that cut" when ripping. Not that you can't. But they often don't line up all that great. And that can be frustrating.

I'm not sure how much budget is influencing your decision. But, like a lathe purchase, get the biggest most expensive that you can afford (within reason). You will grow into it. NOTE: I don't mean to go out and get a 30" chainsaw just because you can afford it. I mean, between the 14" and 18", if you can, get the 18". You get FAR more than just a longer bar. You get a more powerful motor, too.

And Scott had another very good point. Go to a dealer, not the BORG. Even if the same "brand" is carried at both.

[Prashun Patel]

I third the recommendation to buy from a dealer. Pay the extra to get a Stihl or Husqvarna; don't be tempted to buy from Big Box. My 1st saw was a Homelite that had bar, starting, and tensioning issues. It was dangerous to use. My Stihl MS250 is good. I have a 12" lathe and it cuts anything I need. Bigger is definitely better - but only if you have the muscle for it (I don't). Fatigue makes for danger. On the other hand, burying a 14" bar in a 25" log can lead to kickback. It's also hard to cut a clean line working from both sides of the log.


Also, definitely invest in a cant hook and a saw buck. Don't work stupidly.

[Glen Blanchard]

As a result of this thread, I am considering an 18" Stihl (I think it's the MS250). I was going to get an Echo from the BORG, but will make a trip to a local dealer instead.

[Dan Forman]

I have the 250 Pro and it's a good compromise between weight and power. I think it came with a 20" bar (I have a 20" lathe). One other thing, It will come with anti-kickback chain. I used that until I felt comfortable with it, but then changed to pro chains, which will cut a lot faster. The longer cut times put more strain on my back, which leads to more fatigue, which others have pointed out is a safety factor as well.

Make sure you store your gas in a can that you won't confuse with the lawnmower gas, that is an expensive mistake! DAMHIKT

Dan

[Dan Forman]

I grew up with a 20" bar and would hesitate to go shorter except for limbing or cutting very small stuff. Unfortunately that saw was taken by a relative when my grandmother died.
I loved that saw and now have my own. Stihl is the only brand I like. Yeah, I know, hornets nest.... I have a 390 and it wears a 20" bar unless I am cutting bigger stuff, then it wears a 28" bar. It has no problem pulling either bar in hardwood. I have opened up the muffler to let it breathe and run cooler, but that is a must on ANY saw. I have also modified the oiler. A stock saw can be fun, but they are more fun once you set them free. Make sure you get a rim sprocket. They run smoother and it is MUCH cheaper to replace a $5 rim than a $35 spur sprocket.

Isaac --- Can you say more about the mods you mentioned?

Dan

[Glen Blanchard]

Make sure you store your gas in a can that you won't confuse with the lawnmower gas, that is an expensive mistake! DAMHIKT

Dan

Well there's ONE thing I wont have to worry about. No lawnmower!! Don't even own a gas tank (yet).

[Dan Forman]

If you are not doing a lot of cutting, just get a 1 gallon gas can. They say that modern gas with ethanol doesn't store well, even with stabilizer, so no point in buying more gas than a gallon at a time, maybe even half a gallon. I've been told not to use gas more than about 6 weeks old. There is one place here in town that that sells ethanol free gas (which will store longer) so I've used that with good results.

Dan

[Carl Civitella]

Whatever saw you end up buying the very first thing you should learn to do is sharpen your own chain! This is the single most important thing you need to know how to do when using a chain saw. If you just barely nick the chain on the ground it will need to be sharpened. I bought an Oregon chain jig that mounts on the bar and guides the file when you are sharpening and it made sharpening a much quicker and enjoyable (if you can say that about sharpening?) then trying to do it by eye.

I have two Stihl saws. One is a 025 with an 18" bar and I just last fall picked up a Stihl 044 with a 20' bar and that saw is a beast. The 025 was a saw my father purchased some time ago for light duty work around the yard and it is a nice saw but when it comes to cutting up big lumber the 044 eats everything put in front of it and never bogs or complains. It is significantly heavier than the 025 but it is also a much larger saw at 77cc's. When it comes to cutting big lumber you can't beat displacement. The 025 18" bar has cut some pretty big stuff as well but it has a much tougher time doing it and it takes a lt longer to make the same cut that the 044 can do in half the amount of time and effort.

I thought i was the only one in the world with an 025 stihl.

[Ronald Blue]

I wouldn't let ethanol scare you from using it. Use synthetic premix oil and your good for about 4 weeks. Gasoline does lose octane when it sets especially if the container isn't completely airtight. I know the ethanol comment will cause a stir but I consider us to be experts here. This is where it all began and we have been using it since 1980 and while our vehicles may have rusted away they ran right up till that point.

[Brent VanFossen]

I bought a Stihl Farm Boss with a 20" bar from a dealer based on the dealer's suggestion. It's a perfect match to my needs. It gets heavy, but has lots of power, and will cut through the big leaf maples and Douglas Firs that occasionally fall on my property. The pro saws are a bit stronger and lighter at the same time, but for a lot more money. The dealer's advice was worth shopping for, and it probably saved me money and frustration.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Ethanol... Groan. Try to find non-ethanol gas.

If you can't find non-ethanol gas, you should drain your saw of the excess gas (In an aproved environmentally safe method of course) and run the saw until it dies. This gets all of the gas out. Do not store the saw with gas in it for extended periods of time.

[Phil Maddox]

I bought an 18' and wish I would have gotten the 20".