Do I really need or want a 15 amp router?

[Bob Deroeck]

It's time to upgrade the router in my router table from a PC690 to something more powerful and with variable speed. I have a hobby shop and while I plan to make kitchen cabinets for my kitchen in the next few years, I won't be doing production work. I don't envision using my router table for making raised panels and twirling large diameter horizontal cutters. So, I'm wondering if I really need or want a large-size, 15 amp, so-called 3 1/4-3 1/2 HP router or if I'll be happy with a medium-size, 12-13 amp, so-called 2 1/4 HP router. I expect to be using the table mounted router with straight, round-over, cove, rabbeting, slot-cutting, and pattern bits.

Cost is a consideration, but not a primary consideration. I don't want to buy a 2 1/4 HP router and then be wishing later I had bought a 3+ HP machine because the router I bought wasn't much of a step up from my 1 3/4 HP PC 690. On the other hand 10 years from now I'd rather not think back and realize I've never utilized the power of the 3+ HP router I bought. My problem is I don't have any experience using any router larger than the PC 690. Whereas, I suspect there are many SMC members who have owned medium and large routers. Is the power provided by the 2 1/4 HP routers significantly greater than that of the 1 3/4 PC router I own? Or, is the difference in power fairly insignificant? If it's significantly greater, then the 2 1/4 HP router may suit my needs.

Out of curiosity, if I decided to do the odd raised panel, would a 2 1/4 HP router using a vertical raised panel bit get the job done?

Thanks for your input.

Bob

[Peter Quinn]

For a router table I like a 3+ HP router, anything less is somewhere between annoying and anemic. If you are really only going to do small things with it, then the 2 1/4HP could be serviceable. At work we have a simple router table with a 1 1/2HP PC router, does everything we need a router table to do, but there are 7 shapers sitting next to it, so it doesn't do any heavy lifting. You mentioned doors, you can certainly do those on a smaller router, but for sticking doors on a router the 3HP class really is more capable, less chatter, doesn't bog down. etc. If you said money was real tight and you need a router for both in table and out, I'd probable make do with the 2 1/4HP, it is the most versatile size IMO. I should mention for full disclosure I have 8 routers and 3 are 3+ HP, I'm not the worst router junky, but its not a spartan approach either.

[Rich Aldrich]

I have a Freud FT2000E router. I use it for raised panel doors. For the raised panel bits, you want variable speed and I would not go less that the 3 hp. You need the variable speed so you can spin the large bit slower. It is scary to see that big bit spin too high of speed. The horsepower is a must for turning that big bit. You wouldnt necessarily need the HP for the rail and stile bits. I will be considering a shaper if I do very many more cabinet doors.

[Mike Henderson]

It sort of depends on how you're going to use it. You can swing a fairly large raised panel bit with a 2 1/4 HP router but you may want to take multiple passes. So, if you want to trade time for money, you can use a 2 1/4 HP router. If you want to trade money for time, a big 3+ HP router will get the work done faster, probably in one pass.

I have a 2 1/4 HP router in my table and never felt I needed a bigger one. But I only use it for hobby work so I can take the time to take small bites, if necessary.

Mike

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Bob,

Something to consider. What is the price difference between a 2 1/4hp router and a 3 1/4hp router? If the difference isn't significant, it might be wise to purchase the larger one.

I currently have a 2 1/4hp router that I have used in my cheap benchtop router table and for freehand work. I am close to finishing Norm's Deluxe Router Station and purchased a 3 1/4hp PC motor and a Woodpecker lift for the new router station.

Like Mike, my current router has served me well and I have never felt a need for a larger one as I take small bites.

[David Weaver]

I don't use routers a whole lot, or any power tools, but I do have a router table and a few 12 amp routers and the same PC 15 amp 7518 that a lot of people have.

The big one is really a pleasure to use if you have no other way to do raised panel doors (i don't, other than by hand, which would look odd in a modern kitchen). I've never been sorry that I spent the money on it, and of the four routers I do have and don't use often, it's the only one I really wouldn't give up.

[Stephen Cherry]

I have a hobby shop and while I plan to make kitchen cabinets for my kitchen in the next few years,

Bob- It seems to me that with just that one project, a big router would earn it's keep. I have 2 big PC routers, and I can say that the big routers can turn something like a 1/4 spiral upcut with authority. Smaller routers seem to me to struggle to get out of their own way.

[Rick Fisher]

Hey Bob ..

I have a Jessem table with 2 separate lifts. Coincidentally I have a PC 690 in one lift and a PC 7518 in the other .. The difference in capacity is significant. The bigger 7518 is capable of much more volume.

I agree however with Ken.. you can do anything with the 690 that you can do with the 7518 .. but it will take an extra pass or two .. So its more about time and convenience than anything else.

Of course if you push that 690 beyond what its designed for, you will shorten its life. As an owner operator, I would bet the big difference for you will just be time ..

FYI .. I also have a Festool OF2200 and it can actually raise panels with a 3" panel bit in a single pass. I will do a 90% - 10% cut freehand because that last 10% leaves a nicer finish ..

[scott spencer]

You don't NEED a 15 amp router to spin the big bits, but I doubt you'll ever regret having one. They have a much easier time, and should last longer. It depends a lot on how many times you think you'll be pushing the router hard.

[Curt Harms]

I suspect a 2.25 H.P. router is adequate for most table use. If you want to raise panels with a horizontal panel raiser, do it in several passes or remove most of the waste on a table saw and just cut the profile with the router bit. More important than H.P. IMO is variable speed. Burn prone woods like cherry and maple can be fed slower and with more control without burning when bit speed is reduced. I have a Freud FT2000E like Rich and it's been great. I installed a router raizer, some newer plunger have above the table depth-of-cut adjustment and bit changing out of the box. I have a P-C 89? fixed base that has above-the-table height adjustment. I don't use it for that purpose and would be pretty skeptical about the durability of its height adjusting mechanism.

[Bill Huber]

I have the Jessem table and left, for the a long time I had a Bosch 1617 2 1/4 router table in it, it did everything I ask it to do. I made a bunch of raised panels and the Bosch did great and but I let it cool after every panel, it would get really hot then......

I got a good deal on a PC 7518 and upgraded.

The difference is large, I have made some raised panels with the 7518 and the difference is really something. The cuts go much faster and the router does not get so hot and on other things the cuts are faster also.

It is kind of like an under powered table saw with a standard kerf blade and then you put in a thin kerf blade to do ripping.

If you can swing the cost I would go with the larger router.

[Steve Milito]

It really depends if you plan to only use it in the table or plan to take it in and out for handheld use. There is no downside to a '3.5' VS router attached to a table. I much prefer the '2.25' HP sized routers for handheld use because the larger routers are a bear when handheld.
I must warn you I'm in the routers are like potato chip school of thought. I have at least one of all the common sizes from trim on up. My philosophy is the smallest that will do the job for handheld, and the biggest you can afford for the table.

[Phil Thien]

We've know for some time that these HP ratings on routers are carp.

We've always been told to look at the current rating on the motor instead.

And that is where it gets kind of interesting. Because the reports of the extra muscle of these larger PC (and other) routers (and I believe the reports) doesn't seem to jive with a motor that uses 15A, instead of 13A. We're talking about an extra 15% in current, but reports make it seem (and again, I believe the reports) that the larger 15A routers seem like they could raise panels all day long, whereas the 13A motors need to take lighter passes and struggle a bit.

Right now I have a Dewalt DW618 in my table (and I'm happy but I don't do raised panels). One of these days I'm going to get a larger PC 15A unit. I've seen CL deals, just haven't been fast enough.

[Stephen Cherry]

We've know for some time that these HP ratings on routers are carp.

We've always been told to look at the current rating on the motor instead.

And that is where it gets kind of interesting. Because the reports of the extra muscle of these larger PC (and other) routers (and I believe the reports) doesn't seem to jive with a motor that uses 15A, instead of 13A. We're talking about an extra 15% in current, but reports make it seem (and again, I believe the reports) that the larger 15A routers seem like they could raise panels all day long, whereas the 13A motors need to take lighter passes and struggle a bit.

Right now I have a Dewalt DW618 in my table (and I'm happy but I don't do raised panels). One of these days I'm going to get a larger PC 15A unit. I've seen CL deals, just haven't been fast enough.

Phil- it may come down to things that aren't quite as marketable as current ratings. First of all, a router is not the best tool for panel raising, so that may not be the best criteria to judge it by. What I can say is that a big PC router can turn something like a 1/4 spiral bit at a pretty high duty cycle without throwing a rod. I have one in my pin router, and it has survived me and the previous owner. It could be that cooling, bearings, and overall mass are the main features of the bigger routers. One thing that I do know is that the 220v PC router in my pin router can get super hot when doing pattern work, and I would not want to go down in size.

[Myk Rian]

Bob;
I have a PC 890 in my table, and it has been a great router.
You asked about vertical raised panel bits, which it will handle with no problem.
It will also spin the horizontal type, but take small cuts to get to the final profile.
And of course, the speed needs to be reduced for them.

[Michael W. Clark]

I have an 890 in my table currently. I did raised panels in hard maple, 2 passes, with backcutter (horizontal panel raiser). It did not like it. After the first pass on three panels, you could smell it, big time. I stopped before I did any immediate damage to it (I hope). I just bought a PC7518 to put in the table and will use the 890 handheld. I have not installed the 7518 yet. As Stephen noted, a router is not necessarily the best toool for a steady diet of raised panels.

Mike

[John Lanciani]

The only reason that I have a 15 amp router in my table is because nobody makes a 20 amp router. A big router will do the work of a small router (in a table) all day long, the opposite is not true. Buy once, cry once.

[Bob Deroeck]

Thanks for all your input.

I think I've found the perfect answer. Buy two routers, a 13 amp and a 15 amp. For now I'll buy the 13 amp for use in the router table. When my router table demands become larger in the future, I'll buy a 15 amp router for the table and delegate the 13 amp router for dovetail jig or mortizing jig duty.

Such a simple solution.


Bob