Shop/Basement "remodel" - First pics (long)

[Todd Davidson]

Jim Becker started a thread recently asking what plans we had for our shops this Summer. Thought I'd post a little on my and (LOML) Kim's progress. At the time of Jim's inquery Kim and I had begun gutting the existing space. Have since upgraded to 200 amp service, run 8 joist mounted outlets for shop lights (found some decent ones at the Borg that take either/both T-8 & T-12), removed a section of the floor that had cracked and was letting water in, added a couple LVLs 9 1/2" X 16' to either side of the existing support beam so I can remove a lolly column creating a center space for a TS. Today a couple buddies came over and we poured the floor. where we had removed the section and capped/ leveled the rest of the space with 2"-3" of concrete. Tomorrow we're going to pick up a bunch of 2X6(X20') leftover from a job and make 6'8" 2X3s out of em for framing the walls. Am considering sheathing the walls with pegboard so the concrete walls behind can breathe. Figure that once cabinets, shelves, etc are up there won't be a whole lot of exposed wall space so what pegboard will be exposed will be handy. Need to find out if epoxy paint can be applied after a 48hr cure time and if so I'm going to paint the floor (with the speckles:) ) We still haven't figured out exactly how we want to lay the space out w/ tools & benches so the exact location of what is to be surface mounted electrical outlets (I think 6 220 and atleast 20 110)
The basement is appx 25' X 40' (w/ 7' height to the joists) and the space we have to rededicate to a shop is 25' X 25' (the rest of the space contains furnace, tank, washer/'dryer, and weight bench).
Kim will probably set up her area for drum making, turning, and scroll work on the wall to the left of the door. The door wall we're thinking will be for the RAS and 12"CMS (although I'm tempted to sell both and buy a 10" or 12" SCMS to save space). Jointer, TS and outfeed/work surface area where the lolly column is coming out. We'll figure the rest out after these are in place.


First picture is of gutted space......Second of area of floor that had to be removed......Third is the "pile" of tools etc awaiting their return to service.

Thanks for checking our project out. In peace, Todd & Kim

[Todd Davidson]

A couple more pics during and after pour.....

[mike malone]

Hi Todd
lookin' good...
pouring concrete must be the worst part...but nothing like starting out with a clean slate!!
peace
mike

[Jim Becker]

That's a great start on a MAJOR spring shop project, Todd!! Serious shop remodel there!

BTW, I have this feeling that you will not be able to put that epoxy on the concrete until it cures for much, much longer than 48 hours. It takes many, many days for it to fully set and release all the moisture as far as I know.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Jim has a good point. Full curing time for concrete is much longer than 48 hours. You may want to check with manufacturer on how long you need to wait before applying the epoxy.

[Tim Brewers]

It is usually 2 weeks before you can put a finish on it.

Brew

[Richard Wolf]

Good start to a family project. Great you have LOYL involed.

Richard

[Todd Davidson]

Good morning~

Kim and I appreciate the words of encouragement. Pouring concrete is probably the worst part of the job and the one aspect that I have the least experience with. We're really happy to have a smooth level surface now though, so it was worth the 12 hour day we put in yesteday.

Will try to find what the manufacturer recommends for a cure time. Given that most of the area was just capped with 2"-3" I'm hoping that I can get away with less than a week. Will start framing walls tomorrow and working on tool/bench layout. Suppoose I can run electrical before I epoxy the floor. That would give me a couple more days.

Yes, Richard, Kim being an artist/craftsperson/carpenter (and the daughter of a furniture maker) really adds an element of fun and great additional insight to the renovations we've been doing around the house as well as to the small remodeling business we have.
Thanks for everyone's input. We'll post more updates (and questions) as this project progresses.

[Richard Wolf]

Todd, Its always nice to see a pretty face on the forum. We are so used to a mostly male craft its fun to see the softer side sometimes. Maybe I should start a tread showing our partners in our territory.

Richard

[Bill Lewis]

Todd,

Did you fix the water problem before pouring the new slab? It could be that a water drainage problem is what initiated the cracking slab in the first place. You could possbily be in for the same trouble again. Granted, it may take many years before the problem arises again.

That being said, I too painted my basement shop floor with the Rust-Oleum basement floor paint. Alot has already been posted about this stuff, but I'll go ahead and post my experience with it to save you a search.

There is a method to tell if the concrete is dry enough. It requires placing plastic over the concrete to see if any condensation forms. If not, it's dry enough. I think this was on the can, or the website. You will probably have to wait at least a couple of weeks.

It needs to be really really clean. I used a big string mop, shop vac, and a wringer bucket to clean the floor.

Mine has held up well to a single coat. The paint is very durable. However, I would have preferred a glossier finish, mine turned out very flat. I think to obtain this I needed to apply two coats. The instructions don't say this, but that is what has been indicated by others who have used it.

Lastly, you may want to think twice about using the "speckles". I did use them, and it does give the floor a more finished texture, but it also makes it harder to fine small things that get dropped. It also hides dirt somewhat. Which makes it difficult to spot when sweeping up.

Hope this helps.

[Todd Davidson]

Hi Bill~

The "original" foundation was poured in sections (was initially a dirt floor) by the last owner (who worked at a lumber yard that also sold concrete) in SEVERAL stages. What I presume to be his last self mixed pour, over earth that tied in several of his opther pours (whisch were all at slightly different levels and done with different mixes of stone, etc) was what cracked. That area was very thin and I'd say his mix was lousy. I took the area out and dug down another 6". Also put in a "pit" for a sump pump (just in case as the water table here is very high).

Talked to a couple concrete contractors I'm acquainted with today about sealing or epoxying the floor. They both recommended a commercial sealer that, given most of the floor is only capped, I can apply immediately. I'd prefer the epoxy but can't wait 3 weeks to get the shop set back up as I have a couple commissions that I need to start on.

Hi Richard ~

"The softer side"...Don't let Kim hear you say that:) She's quite the exception on job sites and actually gets more shop time than I do working on her drums and planning her first violin attempt. Will post pictures once we're up and running again


Update..... Spent yesterday cutting 23 2X8X20 into 2X4X7 and picking up the rest of what I need for lumber (2X4PT, and 2x6) at the Borg. had a long day at work today so am just going to snap some lay out lines on the floor tonight.

[Richard Wolf]

~"The softer side"


No offense meant.

Richard

[Corey Hallagan]

Todd, that is going to make a great shop for the two of you. Can't wait to see it when you are done!

Corey

[Todd Davidson]

Hi Richard~

No offense taken at all. It would be cool to see posts/pictures of what our better halves do, whether it be creating, inspiring, or just supporting our endeavors. My response to "the softer side" was meant tongue-in-cheek.

Hi Corey~

We're quite excited about "remodeling" the space to suit our needs. I bought the house from the widow of a cabinet maker / woodworker who had his shop in the basement. His setup didn't really work for us, so we figured if we're gonna make changes let's just tear it down and start over.

Progress report.... well....I spent a few hours envisioning:) .

[Bill Lewis]

I took the area out and dug down another 6". Also put in a "pit" for a sump pump (just in case as the water table here is very high).
That's good, sounds like you've definately covered your bases.
Keep us posted with your progress, and we'll definately have to see these drums and the violin when that starts.