Fountain Pen Kits

[Jonathan Clement]

I'm relatively new at turning pens but I think I have gotten the process down. My wife and I made a bunch as gifts for the holidays and they were well received. A contractor was at the house recently to deliver a contract for some work we are having done and saw a couple of our pens. He asked if he could buy some for gifts. He was interested in fountain pens as well as ballpoint pens and pencils. My question is how reliable the fountain pen kits are and if they are easy for a customer to refill. Also, are there any recommendations about kits to get. So far we have been dealing with PSI and Craft Supplies USA.

[William Adams]

The IPG (Iridium Point Germany) nib pens I've seen are quite nice (I use fountain pens).

Be sure to provide instructions, esp. re: the need to rinse it out each time it runs dry.

[Jim Burr]

The nibs on the kits from CSUSA and PSI are made in China and are not very good quality. They can be replaced though! Another thought, try Marksman kits...Google them. They use Bock nibs and are very nice kits! I have used CSUSA kits for years, no complaints ever...just the nibs aren't that great. If you use the cartridge type refill...very easy for anyone to change, just like changing a rollerball refill. Hoope that helps...also head to IAP...best forum around for pens and other stuff!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ditto what Jim said. Have had the same experience with CSUSA but still good kits with no problems.

[Dan Forman]

Not a lot of people share my view on this, but the only kit fountain pens I like to use are the Churchill/El Grande type - each company has their own variation on these models. They are large, but relatively light due to the lack of a metal section (the part you grip when writing) and finial. The section is nicely shaped, like a traditional fountain pen, and feels much better in my hand than the skinny and slippery metal sections on nearly all of the other models. Unfortunately, the short black plastic finial on the cap is likely to develop a radial crack in time, but it doesn't affect usage. These pens have wide barrels designed for rather thin "skins", so transparent or translucent acrylic blanks will need to be painted on the inside (reverse painted) in order to the the brass tubes from showing. Now problem with wood.

An after market Bock nib (size #6) can be had for $11.00 from Bock 250 Gold Plated Medium Nib - Indy~Pen~Dance (http://www.indy-pen-dance.com/bock-250-6mm-gilded-polished-nibs.html), but only in medium point.

Goulet pens carries a Bock nib with their own logo in all sizes, but cost is $25.

A Jowo (the other main German nib maker) can be had from Meister NIbs for about $20

Knox is private label German nib (probably made by one of the above firms) that is available in all sizes and gets very good reviews on The Fountain Pen Network forum, can be had in all sizes for about $9 each. Fountain Pen Converters and Fountain Pen Nibs (http://www.xfountainpens.com/Accessories-s/32.htm)

The ink cartridges that come with any of the kits are not very good, so best not include them. Diamine and Private Reserve are good brands for ink in standard "international" size cartridges. The converter allows you to use bottled ink, which is much more economical than carts.

Dan

[Jonathan Clement]

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions and advice.

[James Combs]

... They are large, but relatively light due to the lack of a metal section (the part you grip when writing) and finial. The section is nicely shaped, like a traditional fountain pen, and feels much better in my hand than the skinny and slippery metal sections on nearly all of the other models. Unfortunately, the short black plastic finial on the cap is likely to develop a radial crack in time, but it doesn't affect usage. ...
Dan
Dan/Jonathan, I can't speak on the nibs other then my customers have not complained but, I have made several of the Churchill style pens and I agree with Dan on the feel of the section. However, I have never experienced the cracked finial problem Dan refers to. All of the Churchills I have made whether they were Berea Hardwoods (http://www.bereahardwoods.com/pen-kit/sets/0501_F-V-IPG.html), or Golden Nib (http://www.thegoldennib.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=22_29)(the only ones I will use now) component sets had the finial made from brass. In the Golden Nib sets which they call a Windsor (http://www.thegoldennib.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=22_29) the section was also brass. Both sets included a brass section coupler as well, although the Berea had it as an extra coupler in the bag to replace the plastic one which had a propensity to break. In the sets that I have made from either vendor the only other plastic component on either pen was the cap center band. It is plastic on both sets, however for me that is preferable, it prevents the center band from scratching the section or the finial(if posted). There may be other brands out there but the above is my experience.

Just a little digression from the original subject: This is a very large pen and as such is not really constructed to post the cap onto the finial, there are no threads on the finial although in most cases it will post from a friction fit but not necessarily in all cases. YMMV