Table Saw power feed

[kenneth fleming]

Hi,
Looking to add an additional saw with a feeder...not looking to rip panels but just more for the 12" and under stuff..Will use either a PM or Unisaw with a Biesemeyer or Unifence...a 3 hp or a 5 hp...a 3 or 4 wheel Steff or Delta feeder (3/4 to 1 hp)...I will be ripping FF stock, 3/4 ply, dado FF stock, misc rip widths, most 4/4 to 5/4 stock in various hardwoods.
I have spare feeders and I am going to pick up a used saw. In reading multiple threads and recently visited a shop it seems like many are using 3 HP saws and doing just fine. Any input to the below would be appreciated.

Any issues with a 3 HP and power ?
Comments on unifence vs biesemeyer with general adjustments, flexing ? I am fine with adding additional back block to the fence.
Any issues with using a right tilt when beveling vs a left tilt ?
Other comments ?


Thanks and appreciate it in advance
Ken

[Julie Moriarty]

I have a Unifence on my Delta Contractor's saw, which I've had for about 20 years. It's nice to be able to flip to the low fence, if needed, and to slide the fence back for crosscuts, so they don't get pinched. I have no complaints, but I've never used any other type of fence to compare.

[David Kumm]

The key with a feeder and a fence that isn't supported in the back is to not tilt the feeder too far towards the fence to keep the board tight. Too much pressure will cause the fence to open up. The old fences that clamped down both front and back were a good choice for feeders. If I'm going to do a lot of feeding at the same width I will put a clamp behind the fence but too much work if you are changing the fence a lot. Dave

[Peter Quinn]

3 hP is fine for most general wood working, easily accomplishes everything up to 8/4 in most species with little noticeable difference from 5HP. Its that last inch, from 2" to 3" in harder material like oak and maple where the extra HP IMO really makes a difference. So if you see yourself doing lots of 10/4 hard maple ripping, I'd be thinking 5-7HP saws. But for most general cabinetry (ie doors, FF material, etc) 3HP is fine. I keep a big block that goes alll the way to the fence from the outboard side and clamps to the back rail for bracing the fence when feeding. Its an odd pice of 8/4. about 50" length, something defective from a past job. I batch cut parts to minimize changing the block position. I'f I'm just doing a few I hand feed.

[J.R. Rutter]

I have a Unifence on my Delta Contractor's saw, which I've had for about 20 years. It's nice to be able to flip to the low fence, if needed, and to slide the fence back for crosscuts, so they don't get pinched. I have no complaints, but I've never used any other type of fence to compare.

Good point on the low fence option. If you see yourself ripping thin strips, this would be handy to get the feeder wheels fully engaged.

I've used feeders with Biesemeyer style fences without issue. At one point, I had two different saws set up with feeders. The nice thing about them is that you can pretty easily get your money out of them when/if you move on to different methods.

[Jeff Duncan]

The HP of your saw should be fine as long as you match it to the blade, type of wood, and speed of feed. So for ripping 4/4 cherry you could probably shoot it right through without issue at a pretty good clip. Now if your trying to run 8/4 maple, your going to need to slow it way down. You'll also want a dedicated ripping blade with 20 or less teeth. As for blocking we used to use a long piece of scrap with a birdsmouth cut into the end. Set the fence then fit the piece against the back outside corner of the fence and clamp it down. Of course if your going to be doing a LOT of ripping I'd go with a bigger saw, but a 10" will get it done.

Lastly, whichever feeder you use I highly recommend the poly replacement tires if you don't have them already. The rubber tires glaze up and slip way too easily, and you don't want stuff coming back at you;)

good luck
JeffD

[Stephen Cherry]

Just a couple of points- don't underestimate the importance of a good rip blade, and wax, each of which can make a big difference.

[kenneth fleming]

Thanks everyone for the feedback...much appreciated...

[Mark Bolton]

I'll add a vote for the hi-lo fence. I run a 1HP 3 wheel and with the hi-lo can set the feeder in a single location and rip anything down to a 1/8" strip as long as its 4/4 or thicker. The low side of my fence is just under .75 so it can tuck under the feeder. I basically slide the low fence to about 1/4" off the blade, set the feeder, and never move it for any width board I'm ripping provided I dont need riving knife.

The only issues I have is #1 even with urethane tires on the feeder, with no dust collection above the blade my feeder can slip occasionally. I need to make a small boot to catch the dust from under the feeder but have never gotten around to it. #2 When I set my feeder straddling the blade I cant run a riving knife. Face frame material and wider I slide the feeder over enough to run the knife and I dont even have to stay with the saw while ripping long stock.

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a Hammer B3 that I use the 3 wheel feeder on when ripping, it works great with the low short fence..........Regards, Rod.

[kenneth fleming]

Hi Mark,
What HP is your saw ?

thx
Ken

[Mark Bolton]

5. I have never had issue with power and ripping though we don't do a lot of thick stock. Virtually all hardwoods but mostly 4/4 and 5/4 - 24 tooth heavy ripping blade.

[kenneth fleming]

Thanks Mark and everyone