Critique This Contractor's Table Saw Addition

[Julie Moriarty]

This is a work in progress sketch. The idea is to incorporate better dust collection with an outfeed extension. The back is off for clarity but I'd probably install an access door in the back or maybe work out a simple way to remove the whole thing. There have been a few times I dropped the wrench changing blades so I'd need to consider that as well as checking up on the motor fan vents.

I'm a bit leery about enclosing the motor with dust and chips flying, even though the motor is TEFC rated. But there doesn't seem to be any option unless I never plan to bevel the blade. I like the dust port on the bottom. I'll have 10' of flex attached to it. The extra 90 isn't a concern for me. I just want to catch as much of the dust and chips I can and try not to stress the motor with clogged vents.

Comments or suggestions?

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Tools/TableSawDC_zpsa5b3ecd8.jpg

[Myk Rian]

Cut a 4" hole in the side of the cabinet, and run a piece of flex from the cabinet side to the motor end cover. That will supply fresh air to it.

[Jeff Monson]

Clever idea, I had great success with my contractor saw, by making a simple panel for the bottom with a 4" outlet in the center. On the rear I just cut out 1/4" ply to accommodate for the belt clearance, I was leery about enclosing the motor also....so I didn't do it. This setup did very well for dust and chips.

[John TenEyck]

I would leave the motor out of the equation. On my Sears contractor type saw I built a plywood box that bolts up under the saw, inside of the legs, with a 4" dust port at the side near the bottom. It gets all the dust that normally would be sent under the saw. In your case, I'd build a separate extension table, although you may with to brace it to the plywood box underneath. In any case, I'd leave the motor unenclosed. Cooling, changing belts, whatever, will just be easier.

John

[Ben Hatcher]

I did something similar to my contractor saw a few years ago. I didn't supply fresh air directly to the motor as Myk suggests opting instead to just cut a hole in the cabinet near the motor's fan. I ended up with a motor full of dust. I also ended up with quite a lot of chip buildup inside the enclosure. I used mdf and I think a 45 degree angle at the bottom. Melamine or a steeper angle would probably prevent this. It wasn't really an issue since the exhaust port stayed clear.

I've since changed to a hardboard plate on the rear of the saw and collection below. To cover the opening needed to allow the saw to swing, I use another piece of hardboard with some velcro attached. If I need to tilt the saw, I just move the plate to cover the other side of the opening.

[Dell Littlefield]

I had an old vehicle magnetic sign I fitted to the back of the case. Of course I had to move it when I tilted the saw but it sure kept the sawdust inside the case.

[Darius Ferlas]

Agreed with Ben.
Your motor is likely a TEFC but with many contractor saw the "T" is not that total at all. You would be redirecting a lot of dust toward that motor.

I went an easy (lazy, if you will) route. I bought a big gulp for $15, got a couple of scraps of plywood and I made the contraption shown in the picture. For the back, I did pretty much the same thing as Dell.

[Julie Moriarty]

I now have this on the bottom of the saw cabinet:
http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/88478-01-200.jpg
Years ago I tried to fashion some cardboard on the back to see if I could come up with some design that I could make out of plywood. I eventually gave up on any design that would be permanent.

The flex hose is interesting though and, if it can work through to a 45 degree bevel, would be the answer to isolating the motor fan vents from the debris inside the enclosure.

Motors are enclosed in cabinet saws and regardless how "Totally Enclosed" the inside of the motor is, there is still the "Fan Cooled" part and vents that could clog, and that could lead to the motor running at higher than designed temperatures. I've never seen first hand the inside of a cabinet saw after extended use but that could tell you a lot about what happens to an enclosed motor in a dusty environment.

[Chris Parks]

Enclose the whole lot and draw the make up air so it cools the motor. Personally I would ditch the original frame and make a cabinet for the top and motor to sit on. This would have the advantage of being able to incorporate proper dust collection into what would be a cabinet saw for all intents and purposes.

[lowell holmes]

I agree, leave the motor out of the enlosure. The motor may be TEFC, but if you clog the ventilation slots with saw dust, you've got a problem.

Don't ask me how I know.

[Chris Parks]

If you pull the make up air across the motor the dust won't get anywhere near it.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I did what Darius did and used a big gulp. It works quite well. Most of the dust I get now if from the top of the table.

Your design is interesting. I'd be interested to hear how it works out. The dust seems to have to slide by gravity quite a distance from where it's created - at the blade - to where it's collected. The inside of my contractor saw has a ledge around it where the upper part meets with the legs. Dust collects there, even with a 4" hose smack in the middle directly under the blade. Does the piece that you will be running from the front of the saw down to the dust port eliminate that collection problem?

[Jeff Duncan]

I have to confess I've never owned a contractors saw, but have had several cabinet saws and they all enclose the motor....when you add the optional cover;) None of mine have ever had the cover nor have I ever had any problems with overheating. I'd be interested to see in any of the guys who use motor covers do have heat problems? Might be worth another thread addressing the question before you finalize your plans?

good luck,
JeffD

[Pete Duffy]

I put a sheet of plywood between the saw and the stand, and have a 4" dust port coming out of it. I used sheet magnets like Dell did, but I got them at the dollar store. Easy to remove when tilting the blade. I also used one to cover the slots near the handle. Works about as good as anything will on a contractor saw, IMHO.

I like your idea, though.

[Julie Moriarty]

Enclose the whole lot and draw the make up air so it cools the motor. Personally I would ditch the original frame and make a cabinet for the top and motor to sit on. This would have the advantage of being able to incorporate proper dust collection into what would be a cabinet saw for all intents and purposes.

I thought about that. My concerns were the overall weight. It has to be easily mobile within the shop. How sturdy it would be? Would I be able to make something that could later be easily removed from the basement, should we move, and do so without impacting the sturdiness of the base? And, of course, there's the time factor. How long would it take to come up with a design that I really liked and how long would the shop be down while I built it?

This is what I have now and I would want to keep most of the features this setup has.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Tools/TS-RT_zpsc282bede.jpg

And there's one other concern - the table saw is about 20 years old. How much life does it have left in it?

[Clay Crocker]

Julie, I think Chris means something like this:
261094

This was what I did to my Sears Contractors saw about 15 years ago. The dust collection worked surprisingly well and I never had a problem with the motor being enclosed. The upper, back part of the cabinet over the motor could be removed so the motor could be cleaned occasionally. I used this setup for about five years; if not for the lame fence and a lack of HP I would probably still be using it.

Clay

[Shawn Pixley]

Julie,

I think that you are on the right track. I have a Sawstop contractor's saw (I bought it when there was only contractor or industrial saws available) that I am adding dust collection in a similar manner. For mine, I am putting a removable bottom with the dust collection port on it. For my money, it needs to be removable as I occasionally drop the arber nuts and the lifting mechanism can get fouled with sawdust. It is easiest to clean from below. I am trying this before going to a more complex sloped housing.

For the motor, I have a fixed and hinged outfeed table on the saw above the motor. I am planning to box out the motor around it and against the fixed portion of the outfeed table. I will have air intakes on it to run make-up air over the motor to keep it cooler and reasonably dust free. My idea is to used magnets to hold it against the saw body and screw it to the outfeed top. The whole thing needs to be lightweight as I move the saw for every session (read "on weekends").

[Keith Bohn]

the table saw is about 20 years old. How much life does it have left in it?

My saw turned 70 a couple of years ago. It saws the same as it did when it was sold (very well).

You have a very nice saw there. The additional work you've done to it is outstanding. In your case its age is the last thing I'd worry about. I say this because you appear to take care of your equipment. I'd be more inclined to worry which of the kids (if you have some) will inherit it.

It takes a lot to kill a machine like that. I mean, you almost have to go out of your way.

[Julie Moriarty]

My saw turned 70 a couple of years ago. It saws the same as it did when it was sold (very well).

You have a very nice saw there. The additional work you've done to it is outstanding. In your case its age is the last thing I'd worry about. I say this because you appear to take care of your equipment. I'd be more inclined to worry which of the kids (if you have some) will inherit it.

It takes a lot to kill a machine like that. I mean, you almost have to go out of your way.

That's nice to know. It's not like the saw has shown any signs of fading. I just didn't know what the lifespan of a contractor's saw was. As for my kids inheriting my stuff, one is a scientist and doesn't know what a screwdriver is, one is a bodybuilder and model and he only works on his body, and my only daughter... well, she might be the most likely recipient. She actually likes tools. Go figure! HA!

[Joseph Tarantino]

My saw turned 70 a couple of years ago. It saws the same as it did when it was sold (very well).

You have a very nice saw there. The additional work you've done to it is outstanding. In your case its age is the last thing I'd worry about. I say this because you appear to take care of your equipment. I'd be more inclined to worry which of the kids (if you have some) will inherit it.

It takes a lot to kill a machine like that. I mean, you almost have to go out of your way.

+1. IMHE, machines that are not abused last a LONG time, especially those built years ago. one of my contractor has has a table and trunions that date form the 70s. it shows no signs of slowing down. BTW, there was an article in one of the WW rags (fine WWm, i think) that covered how a WW totally enclosed the rear of his contractor saw as you're proposing.

[Keith Bohn]

and my only daughter... well, she might be the most likely recipient.

If I tried all day I don't think I can/could think of anything more wonderful.

[Troy Turner]

I'm in the big gulp crowd. I have magnetic sheets on the back and am still playing with whether I need to leave the on or not. Seems to be alot of air flow when they're not on and I haven't seen that much dust on the motor.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?200074-Anyone-put-a-Big-Gulp-under-a-t-s/page2

[Myk Rian]

That's nice to know. It's not like the saw has shown any signs of fading. I just didn't know what the lifespan of a contractor's saw was. As for my kids inheriting my stuff, one is a scientist and doesn't know what a screwdriver is, one is a bodybuilder and model and he only works on his body, and my only daughter... well, she might be the most likely recipient. She actually likes tools. Go figure! HA!
Kinda like our eldest Daughter gets all my firearms.
She's the only hunter, besides me.