Bandsaw table not perfectly flat

[Curtis Myers]

Just got a 24" bandsaw. Really like it.
The center of the table has a slight downward bow in it. Using a steight edge and feeler gauge I measured it at 0.014 at the lowest point. My question is this within wood working tolarence?
Or should I be concerned.

[Michael Dunn]

I'm no expert, but I would say that a .014" dip is something to be concerned about. Especially when it comes to flatness. Is it parallel to the travel of the workpiece while cutting or is it perpendicular? In other words, is it from left to right or front to back? Did you buy it used?

[Tai Fu]

If its used and you got it cheap, then put a piece of wood over the existing table, but if its new then call the dealer.

[David Kumm]

Bandsaw tables are notorious for not being flat and for having a dip in the middle. Seldom affects the cut but often can be adjusted by shimming or just loosening the bolts slightly at the trunnions. Dave

[Rick Lizek]

I actually started a career of machine repair on a similar question. My PM had a dip of .015" and it was within acceptable tolerance. Woodworking machines are not like metal working machines. When I read someone toes out their fence .001" I know they have no clue about measuring in general or tolerances. If you can't make well aligned pieces it's you, not the tool.

[Tai Fu]

But I guess too that if the machine cuts fine, resaws fine, then don't worry about it. You're not dealing with a milling machine or lathe.

[David Wong]

I have a Felder FB540 that is not flat at the slot for changing the blade. That model saw did not have provisions for a pin to keep the two parts level. I played with one of the bolts supporting the table, and gave it a very slight turn (probably 1/8 turn). That went a long way in correcting level.

[Gus Dundon]

Picture? Good thing my band saw table is flat. Check this thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?94070-Bandsaw-table-not-flat .

[Rich Riddle]

That tolerance would not bother me since my work isn't that level of good. For the much better craftsmen who frequent the forums that might seem significant. If it bothers you, you might consider going to a machine shop and having them make the table perfectly flat. Just a thought.

[Chris Padilla]

My MM20 around the slit that allows one to change blades is not coplanar around the slit. I've often thought to have a new table built but so far, it really hasn't impacted me. I can slice off nice even veneers whenever I want.

[Phil Thien]

My 10" bandsaws have perfectly flat tables.

I'd trade them any day for larger bandsaws with dips in the tables. :)

[mreza Salav]

I would not worry about as I highly doubt it would affect the quality of work coming out of it. The table of a bandsaw has a big cut for the blade and usually is not supported on frames underneath so this can easily happen.

[Curtis Myers]

I'm no expert, but I would say that a .014" dip is something to be concerned about. Especially when it comes to flatness. Is it parallel to the travel of the workpiece while cutting or is it perpendicular? In other words, is it from left to right or front to back? Did you buy it used?

The dip is left to right. Just left of the blade is the low point. Front to back seams very flat.

[jim gossage]

There could be a potential problem with resawing tall boards. If the dip causes your fence to tilt slightly (I have a minimax 16 and my dip causes this to happen), your veneers may not be the same thickness at the top as at the bottom. 0.014 may seem trivial, but if that dip occurs over 3" (for example), and you resaw a board 12" high, if my math is correct the top and bottom might differ by 0.014x4 or about 1/16", which in my mind would be unacceptable for a thin veneer. Ripping boards and other flat cuts should not cause a noticeable problem.