what to do with oak blocks

[chuck vernon]

Today, I obtained several blocks of green oak 7"x9"x 12". I am not sure what to do with them, Should I turn them to rough bowls now, and put them away? If I decide to put them away as is, how do I keep them from cracking? What should I treat the ends with? Thanks.

[Deane Allinson]

While you are waiting for better answers. Seal the end grain. In a pinch I use Tightbond glue mixed 50-50 with water, several coats.

[charlie knighton]

if no crracks in the oak blanks, put in 55 gal cardboard barrels, put top on, let sit for 3 or 4 months, no anchoseal

if no cracks after 3 or 4 months, turn

[Thomas Canfield]

7x9x12 blocks sound like more potential for hollow form than bowl unless cut down to bowl blank sizes. You did not mention grain orientation but 12" would normally be length in grain orientation. That would possible give you option for 3 -7"D x 3"T or 2 - 9"D x 3.5" T bowl blanks with some either 5" or 3" endgrain to break down into other turning pieces. For sure make sure there is no pith in the blocks. I think the grain pattern will tell you more than just trying to get the most blanks out of the original Another option is to use a 7x7x12 for a hollow form and have a 2x7x12 piece. There are a lot of differnt species of oak and my best success has come from rough turning the green wood to 10%D thickness and sealing with Anchor Seal to dry, but still have had checking and cracks often show up.

[charlie knighton]

Chuck, be sure to wear blue gloves and use breathing protection when turning oak

[Prashun Patel]

Oak cracks more readily than other woods. I think you should rough it out to uniform thickness asap, then seal it with wax. I'd apply a couple coats.

[Steve Doerr]

Chuck,
I do a lot of turning with oak and have several piles of ripped oak logs stacked in my basement. All of it has been sealed in wax. Be prepared, it will crack no matter what you do. I have rough turned some, soaked it in DNA and then either wrapped in newspaper, put it in bags, and/or re-coated with wax/anchorseal--no matter what I have done over 70% will develop cracks. However, it provides you with an artistic opportunity. I will use my Dremel to enlarge the cracks a bit and then fill with Inlace and CA or brass fillings (from key machines). I have also finished turned green to thickness (bowls and HF) and let them dry. You will get some neat warping and or grain distortion that also adds a neat artistic look to the turning. Be sure to use various grain orientations, including end grain, this will give you neat and various ray fleck patterns in the turnings.
Good luck and happy turning,
Steve

[chuck vernon]

As I am new to turning I have never done a hollow form. The grain orientation is with the long legnth, however each piece has pith right in the center. I got these at a sawmill that was sawing RR ties. These are the cut off ends. With the pith in the center, I think I will have to saw them in two legnthways. Since my midi lathe will not turn anything over 8" dia. , I think I will saw them to 7"x7"x41/2". As I am busy with a flat board project right now I will just seal the ends and rough turn them as soon as I have time. Sound like a plan? Thanks CV

[Gene Hintze]

With the luck I've had turning oak I'd just chuck em in the fireplace and be done with it

[Thomas Canfield]

As I am new to turning I have never done a hollow form. The grain orientation is with the long legnth, however each piece has pith right in the center. I got these at a sawmill that was sawing RR ties. These are the cut off ends. With the pith in the center, I think I will have to saw them in two legnthways. Since my midi lathe will not turn anything over 8" dia. , I think I will saw them to 7"x7"x41/2". As I am busy with a flat board project right now I will just seal the ends and rough turn them as soon as I have time. Sound like a plan? Thanks CV

Chuck,

Now that the grain orientation and the pith is known, it better defines what needs to be done. Look at the pith and a slab containing the pith needs to be cut out. You can choose to have 7" or 9" wide blank material, and I would probably go with the 7" wide to give thicker blank, and then you can cut the pith out of the pith slab to have 2 or more sections for spindles. Based on my rememberance of railroad ties, I would think that the pith slab removal would take about 1 1/2" at least out of the original thickness, but you might want to make it more to give you larger spindle material. Seal the end grain of all you keep.

[Fred Belknap]

Chuck I have better luck sealing the whole piece with Anchorseal, it don't take that much more.

[robert baccus]

Roger that Fred.