Spalted maple lidded box

[Roger Chandler]

This was done to try out another tool I just got in the mail..........no, I am not buying all new tools! :rolleyes: This was a test for a certain style flute! It worked well!


Anyway, this was a quick little project, and the blank already had tenons on both ends and was just cluttering up my grinding area, so I chucked it up........I thought I would go simple with this one! Sometimes simple is better! ;)

260869260870260871 If you like it, let me know!

[Paul Singer]

I think it turned out great. What tool were you testing on this piece? I am just getting into box's. Always in the market for a new tool.

[Roger Chandler]

I think it turned out great. What tool were you testing on this piece? I am just getting into box's. Always in the market for a new tool.

The tool was just a bowl gouge..........just doing as a favor to someone.........it was used for the outside and a little of the hollowing before the real important tool.....a square box scraper with 2 sharp sides 90 degrees to each other and beveled back about 25 degrees.......that is my secret to a flat wall and sharp corner and flat bottom!

Good luck with your future boxes!

[Steve Vaughan]

Simple is a good thing! Sometimes I get in a tizzy trying to think out what I want to do, and there are times I suppose when that's necessary. But at other times, it's really OK just to chuck up (as opposed to up chuck:D) a piece laying around and go simple. Nice little box there!

[Pete Gray]

Roger a nice clean little box.
When you say simple, do you mean a "simple" shape?, For me even the simplest of designs still reqires the same regard & effort with the finishing, ie, a nice flast internal bottom, going thru the papers to avoid scratches & then appling your chosen finish, be it lacqure, oil or simple rattle can spray on.
This piece seems to combine these for, as I say, a nice clean job
Well done
Pete

[Roger Chandler]

Roger a nice clean little box.
When you say simple, do you mean a "simple" shape?, For me even the simplest of designs still reqires the same regard & effort with the finishing, ie, a nice flast internal bottom, going thru the papers to avoid scratches & then appling your chosen finish, be it lacqure, oil or simple rattle can spray on.
This piece seems to combine these for, as I say, a nice clean job
Well done
Pete

Thanks Pete........yes, I was referring to a simple shape......clean lines and let the figure in the wood speak for itself. You are correct about the finish work.....all that is not so simple! ;)

[Roger Chandler]

Simple is a good thing! Sometimes I get in a tizzy trying to think out what I want to do, and there are times I suppose when that's necessary. But at other times, it's really OK just to chuck up (as opposed to up chuck:D) a piece laying around and go simple. Nice little box there!

Thank you, Steve.........good to hear from you. Hope things are well! Getting much turning time lately?

[Bernie Weishapl]

To me Roger simple is good. I like it a lot. Don't give me that story about not buying tools. I know better.:D

[Roger Chandler]

To me Roger simple is good. I like it a lot. Don't give me that story about not buying tools. I know better.:D

I said I was not buying "all new tools!" I did not say I was not buying any new tools! :D This was just a trial of a type that was new to me, and an replacement of another one I had purchased.......finally got everything the way I needed it!

Thanks for the attaboy, Bernie.....much appreciated!

[Kathy Marshall]

Roger, that's a nice, simple little box and some good looking wood too!

[jwjerry w kowalski]

Roger some forms are elegant in their simplicity, very elegant and nice to look at, I like it a lot.

[Roger Chandler]

Roger some forms are elegant in their simplicity, very elegant and nice to look at, I like it a lot.

Thank you Jerry!

[David C. Roseman]

The tool was just a bowl gouge..........just doing as a favor to someone.........it was used for the outside and a little of the hollowing before the real important tool.....a square box scraper with 2 sharp sides 90 degrees to each other and beveled back about 25 degrees.......that is my secret to a flat wall and sharp corner and flat bottom!

Roger, nice little box, and your point about the box scraper is good to know. As I've commented on another of your boxes recently, I really like the flare at the top and bottom, joined with a smooth curve. Had been wondering if you try to follow the curve on the inside as well, for uniform wall thickness. That would have made for an interesting challenge transitioning from side to bottom. :)

Is the box scraper you use for this a custom tool? Wondering if the side edge is ground at 25 degrees to the full depth of the workpiece, or do you relieve it farther up to avoid rescraping the thin sides of the box near the mouth while you're working near the bottom?

David

[George Morris]

Nice looking box! Well done.

[Roger Chandler]

Roger, nice little box, and your point about the box scraper is good to know. As I've commented on another of your boxes recently, I really like the flare at the top and bottom, joined with a smooth curve. Had been wondering if you try to follow the curve on the inside as well, for uniform wall thickness. That would have made for an interesting challenge transitioning from side to bottom. :)

Is the box scraper you use for this a custom tool? Wondering if the side edge is ground at 25 degrees to the full depth of the workpiece, or do you relieve it farther up to avoid rescraping the thin sides of the box near the mouth while you're working near the bottom?

David

David........I have a Benjamin's Best 1" square scraper from Penn State. I grind it on the end at 25 degrees [that could be 20 or 30 degrees as well...as long as it is a back bevel] and along the left edge, I grind it back about 1-1/2" and you get a really sharp 90 degree corner.....that is the secret......and of course the edge on the front and side help smooth the wall and bottom. Take small cuts .....maybe 1/16th at a time, by pushing the corner into the box wall from the outer opening........

I also usually take a forstner bit to establish the depth and perhaps hollow out some material with a 1/2" bowl gouge, just to move the process along a bit faster........be careful.......you can overdo the bowl gouge!

You need to remember, that as you grind away metal on that side, the angle will change over time, so what I do is sight down the inside wall of the box and make sure that I skew the angle as I present the tool to the wood in order to give me a flat inside wall.........hope that makes sense to you!

Be careful going deep as you need support......after about 5 inches it can get hairy! :eek: A tool rest that will go inside the box will help with support and also you need to be above center line just a smidgen......think 1/16th.......good luck with yours! :)

[David C. Roseman]

Thanks for the explanation, Roger. I have the BB 1" scraper, so think I understand the technique you describe. But to be clear, are you saying that you grind 1-1/2 off the end of the scraper, shortening it by that amount? That would get rid of the rounded nose on the left side that it comes with for interior bowl shaping. But that's a lot of grinding!

Also, when you say you grind to a 25 degree bevel, I'm assuming you are measuring from vertical to the ground edge, when the scraper is held horizontal, as it would be when addressing the workpiece? So you set your grinder platform at 25 degrees from horizontal, right? That produces what I tend to think of as a bevel with a 65 degree included angle, viewing the gouge in profile. I'm never sure how to describe bevel angles, as I've seen folks measure in different ways.

I've noticed that the BB bowl scrapers come with practically no bevel at all on them, so need grinding from the get-go to be useful on a bowl interior.

David

[Roger Chandler]

Thanks for the explanation, Roger. I have the BB 1" scraper, so think I understand the technique you describe. But to be clear, are you saying that you grind 1-1/2 off the end of the scraper, shortening it by that amount? That would get rid of the rounded nose on the left side that it comes with for interior bowl shaping. But that's a lot of grinding!

Also, when you say you grind to a 25 degree bevel, I'm assuming you are measuring from vertical to the ground edge, when the scraper is held horizontal, as it would be when addressing the workpiece? So you set your grinder platform at 25 degrees from horizontal, right? That produces what I tend to think of as a bevel with a 65 degree included angle, viewing the gouge in profile. I'm never sure how to describe bevel angles, as I've seen folks measure in different ways.

I've noticed that the BB bowl scrapers come with practically no bevel at all on them, so need grinding from the get-go to be useful on a bowl interior.

David

Perhaps a picture would be best..........getting ready to go out for a bit to take care of some errands........when I get home, I will try to post a pic sometime this afternoon.

[Roger Chandler]

Here is a pic of the square end gouge I use for the inside of boxes to give them straight walls and flat bottoms.............the pic is with my iphone, but you get the idea about the grind....of course on my particular scraper, the repeated grindings have worn the side grind to a bit of an angle, so one must compensate for the angle of presentation to keep it parallel with the wall.

261022 261023

[David DeCristoforo]

This is one of the nicest ones yet. Simple but well proportioned with just the right amount of curve in the sides.

[Roger Chandler]

This is one of the nicest ones yet. Simple but well proportioned with just the right amount of curve in the sides.

Thanks David..........appreciated!

[David C. Roseman]

Thanks for the scraper pics, Roger!

David

[Roger Chandler]

Thanks for the scraper pics, Roger!

David

You are welcome David..........I did not shorten it.....this one was purchased as a square scraper, but if you wanted to convert a bull nose scraper, then you could just put a square grind on the nose.....would not take too much metal off.