Now what do I do?

[Dick Holt]

I am building a small shaker cupboard for my daughter. Size is approx. 11" x 16" and is made out of mostly 3/8" poplar. I cut the mortises for the door hinges and was screwing the hinges on to the stile. Screw size is #4 x 1/2". I was cutting the threads with a steel screw before I put the brass screws in. Wouldn't you know it, the last screw broke, slightly below the surface of the wood. I tried using my prograbit screw extractor, but only succeeded in chewing up the wood. The screw diameter is just too small for it to work. Any suggestions on how I can remove the broken screw?

Dick

[Alan Schwabacher]

One way to do it is to find a metal tube that would just fit over the screw, and file teeth into the edge. Use this as a hole saw to cut around the screw. Break out the plug with the screw in it, then glue in a new plug, plane flush, and redrill for another screw.

[Dave Richards]

Take a piece of small diameter steel tube and file teeth on one end. Chuck it in the drill and drill around the screw. Then pry the screw out. Fill the hole with a plug (not a dowel) or, if you've chewed the wood up badly enough, route the mortise deeper, glue in a patch and re-router the mortise as needed.

[glenn bradley]

+1 metal tube. I just have mine out and ready along with some toothpicks to fill the errant holes when I am mounting small hardware ;-)

[Cary Falk]

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/20808-03-200.jpg
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2354&site=ROCKLER

[John Piwaron]

I'd use epoxy to glue the plug/toothpicks/whatever to the project. Because epoxy will hold a screw and is a good structural repair.

[Lee Schierer]

You already have several ideas for removing the screw. Once you get it out and get the hole patched, drill a pilot hole for the new screw and start your threads with your stell screw. Lube the threads of the steel screw with beeswax. Then install your brass screw, again lubricating the threads with beeswax. Use only and hand driver never a power driver to drive in brass screws. Beeswax will not stain your wood and will significantly reduce the torque required to seat the screw.

You can buy 1/8" dowels at the borgs and they are usually available in poplar. Use a pencil sharpener to put a point on one end of the dowel. Cut off a short length including the point, coat it with glue and tap it into the wood.

[Dick Holt]

Thanks for the replies guys. The problem I face is the dimension from inside edge of the stile to the oposite edge is only 7"(in other words the door opening is only 7"). The stiles are glued in place so they can't be removed. Using a drill press would therefore be out of the question. If I were to use a metal tube with teeth on it, I would have to use a right angle drill (which I have). Do you think this would work. Because the stock is only 3/8" thick there isn't much room for error. Do you know where I could get small diameter steel tubing , 1/8" ID would be nice if it exists.

Dick

[Andrew Pitonyak]

You can buy 1/8" dowels at the borgs and they are usually available in poplar. Use a pencil sharpener to put a point on one end of the dowel. Cut off a short length including the point, coat it with glue and tap it into the wood.

I have done something similar a few times... Drilled out a hole to match a dowel, tapped in the dowel with some glue..... I even used this method when a hole was drilled THROUGH a cabinet wall. I can point at the spot, but you need to know that it is there and that it is not a "feature" of the wood grain.

[Joe Hillmann]

Since it will only be seen when the door is open is it out of the question to just have one fewer screw holding that hinge in place?

[Dave Richards]

Thanks for the replies guys. The problem I face is the dimension from inside edge of the stile to the oposite edge is only 7"(in other words the door opening is only 7"). The stiles are glued in place so they can't be removed. Using a drill press would therefore be out of the question. If I were to use a metal tube with teeth on it, I would have to use a right angle drill (which I have). Do you think this would work. Because the stock is only 3/8" thick there isn't much room for error. Do you know where I could get small diameter steel tubing , 1/8" ID would be nice if it exists.

Dick

It would work if you are careful. Perhaps you could check at a local hobby shop or DIY store for tube. Or check with a local machine shop and see if they have a bit of scrap. You could manage with a couple of inches.

[Mike Cozad]

Auto part store may have a small section of steel brake line they could hook you up with....

[Tom Blank]

A well stocked model shop (not a crafts store, one dealing with remote control models) should have a selection of both brass and steel tubing in that size range.

Tom