plunge router issue / advice wanted

[John Piwaron]

I've noticed a couple of problems with my current plunge router that's leading me to consider a new one. One of the issues is that there's noticeable "wiggle" or play in the plunge mechanism. the other is that the cutter is not in the center of the base. Unfortunately there is no way to adjust the base so that it's concentric with the cutter.

My current is a 3hp so if I were to get a replacement I'd like to get another with similar power. So far, I've looked at the big Bosch and the big Festool. Can anyone speak to either of those? What's to like about it? Any shortcomings? Hopefully they avoid the problems I've mentioned above.

Are there any others I should consider?

[Andrew Hughes]

I have the 1400 festool router.It is expensive for sure.But the plunge is great and micro adjustments are easy.Its Been in my shop now for several years.No complaints .Not really a big fan of routers too noisy .But I do like the festool tools.

[Michael Wildt]

You do not mention what model you have. Has the router always had this issue or is it more recent ? Jut curious if a bushing broke that now is causing the play. You can look at the exploded drawing of the router and see how its put together that sometimes gives an idea on what's going on too. In regard to the base. They normally have quite a few screw holes, so it works for different models, so if you ever took it off then it could be that you didn't get it on using the right holes.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I have the 1400 festool router.It is expensive for sure.But the plunge is great and micro adjustments are easy.Its Been in my shop now for several years.No complaints .Not really a big fan of routers too noisy .But I do like the festool tools.

Wish you lived closer.... would love to have you show me that. I have never really cared much for my 1400, I think that I prefer my Bosch.... but it lives in my router table.

[Andrew Hughes]

Bosch does make nice tools.I had several porter cable routers before I bought the festool.Never will I buy porter cable tools again.Ever since they stopped making the small sidewinder circular saws, saw boss their tools have not been good.

[Denny Rice]

Bosch does make nice tools.I had several porter cable routers before I bought the festool.Never will I buy porter cable tools again.Ever since they stopped making the small sidewinder circular saws, saw boss their tools have not been good.

I agree with Andrew. I own a lot of Bosch tools and have been happy with everything I have purchased from them. I own the large PC 3-1/2 hp VS router, and besides this router I cannot think of another tool PC offers that I would even consider purchasing. PC has become to much of a consumer brand in the last couple of years.

[Jamie Buxton]

I've never met a plunge router that plunges exactly in the middle of a template guide. I've owned ten or so, since plungers first became widely available. They've all suffered from this malady. My current one (a Festool 1400) is pretty good. It plunges about .015" off-center.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Actually......the routers I have owned specified in the owners manual how to center a template guide on the base using the collet as the alignment device.

My current PC8529 has been an excellent router and I just bought the PC 7518 3 1/4 hp motor for the router station I should finish in the next week or so.

[Rick Fisher]

I have the Festool OF-1400 and the OF-2200 ..

The OF-2200 is perhaps the finest designed router I have ever seen. Its power is amazing, I have raised panels with it and it simply won't bog ... It will turn a huge bit, has soft start ( or it would twist your wrists ) .. and everything about it is clever and well done. Dust collection is amazing, bit changes. You name it .. The only irritation is it draws too much power to be on the same circuit as a vacuum .. but I suppose that is kinda the point of such a big router.

The " big " router is the only sticking point for me .. The OF-2200 is massive .. I think its 17 lbs.. one of the reasons you can run a panel raising bit by hand is the sheer mass of the router. Its not ideal for every task but if you want the most clever, most powerful and most pleasant router on the market, the OF-2200 is it ..

The OF-1400 is a much nicer router to use .. its lighter.. the dust collection is not as good as the OF-2200 and it won't swing a large radius cutter due to the hole size in the base but when it comes to power, its impressive. Bit changes make you smile, great design and really well balanced. Awesome router but it cant run the really large bits..

Neither router has slop in the plunge mechanism. I love Festool routers, high quality, clever designs ... just not cheap. but you only need one..

[John Piwaron]

You do not mention what model you have. Has the router always had this issue or is it more recent ? Jut curious if a bushing broke that now is causing the play. You can look at the exploded drawing of the router and see how its put together that sometimes gives an idea on what's going on too. In regard to the base. They normally have quite a few screw holes, so it works for different models, so if you ever took it off then it could be that you didn't get it on using the right holes.

It's a 7539. I didn't say 'cause I didn't want to trash it either. The design of the aluminum casting part has only the 4 holes to attach the baseplate. The removeable plastic plate has a ring molded on it that engages a matching groove in the casting that appears to center it plus the 4 large flat head screws. Those alone would force this plate to center it. On the screws if nothing else.

[John Piwaron]

I realize that I *could* make a new base, but that's a project all by itself. Then there's the issue of the play. Not sure what's up with that. I've had this machine for at least 20 years. I'll stop being lazy and get on the alternate base project.

It's heavy, it's a monster. I just want it to bring the bit down where I need it to.

[Curt Harms]

Bases are pretty easy once you do a couple. My P-C routers use the same base plate as the 690. I drilled the mounting holes slightly oversized and counterbored 'em so I can adjust the base plate a tiny bit to center bits in bushings.

[John Piwaron]

Yeah, I'm clear on that - counterbored holes with a through large enough to let the base shift around a little. The real issue here is an accurately sized and located hole for a guide bushing.

I've made baseplates before, but only for the purpose of having a transparent one with a hole to clear the specific bit I was using. Making the above goes to a higher level of accuracy.

All that said, the big Festool router still looks interesting. It has many more features than my 7539. BUT - if I buy it, I'd rather do it with my eyes open and for the right reason(s). I don't want to chase a solution for the wrong problem.

[Curt Harms]

Yeah, I'm clear on that - counterbored holes with a through large enough to let the base shift around a little. The real issue here is an accurately sized and located hole for a guide bushing.

I've made baseplates before, but only for the purpose of having a transparent one with a hole to clear the specific bit I was using. Making the above goes to a higher level of accuracy.

All that said, the big Festool router still looks interesting. It has many more features than my 7539. BUT - if I buy it, I'd rather do it with my eyes open and for the right reason(s). I don't want to chase a solution for the wrong problem.

If you're making a base plate that'll accomodate a P-C style bushing, two forstner bits are required. Memory says 1 3/16" and 1 3/8" but I won't swear to that. I made mine with a plunge base - a sloppy plunge base isn't going to enhance accuracy here . I chucked in a V bit that would make a small point. I mounted a 3/8" thick acrylic blank on the base. Start the router and plunge very carefully, just make a tiny divot. Remove the base plate and drill a small hole all the way through. Use the larger forstner bit to drill the thickness of the shoulder of the bushing. Install the smaller bit, turn the blank over and drill all the way through. Mine aren't CNC perfect hence the need for a little adjustability but they work.

[Joe Scharle]

If you're making a base plate that'll accomodate a P-C style bushing, two forstner bits are required. Memory says 1 3/16" and 1 3/8" but I won't swear to that. I made mine with a plunge base - a sloppy plunge base isn't going to enhance accuracy here . I chucked in a V bit that would make a small point. I mounted a 3/8" thick acrylic blank on the base. Start the router and plunge very carefully, just make a tiny divot. Remove the base plate and drill a small hole all the way through. Use the larger forstner bit to drill the thickness of the shoulder of the bushing. Install the smaller bit, turn the blank over and drill all the way through. Mine aren't CNC perfect hence the need for a little adjustability but they work.

I do the last part of this procedure just a little differently.
I screw the plate to a piece of scrap large enough to clamp to my drill press table after making sure the bit will be 90 deg.
Then I bore the small hole all the way through. Change the bit while not moving the plate.
Next, I bore the large hole halfway through the plate. I check with bushing that the shoulder is slightly below the base surface.

[Pete Duffy]

New guy here chiming in with my first post. I have the Bosch 1617EVS-PK and love it. It might not be the HP you want, but it is smooth in all respects. It just feels great and is a joy to use.

[Curt Harms]

I do the last part of this procedure just a little differently.
I screw the plate to a piece of scrap large enough to clamp to my drill press table after making sure the bit will be 90 deg.
Then I bore the small hole all the way through. Change the bit while not moving the plate.
Next, I bore the large hole halfway through the plate. I check with bushing that the shoulder is slightly below the base surface.

That works too. More than one way to defur the feline.