Rockler Saw Guide

[Michael Mayo]

I get these Rockler sale emails almost everyday and todays email has a cutting guide/saw guide as part of their current sale items. You can get a plate to mount your circular saw to to use as a pseudo track saw setup. What are the main differences between this solution and a true tracksaw system. I know that the saw is probably the biggest difference and it is not to be discounted but other than that and the fact that you have to calculate for the guide offset to your intended cut line is there other things I am not realizing that are part of an expensive tracksaw system? I do not have a tracksaw system and use a basic circular saw and a long piece of stock that I jointed as a cutting guide. I just mark my cut line plus 1.5" to account for the blade offset and then I make my cut. It is a little cumbersome but it works and I have not had to spend $500+ on a tracksaw. I am just curious if the investment of a tracksaw is really worth the high price.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=25384&utm_source=NL&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=V2346

[Rodney Garson]

I'm no expert but I just use a cutting guide that I built. Mine requires no offset - I just line up the edge to my mark. There are lots of plans for this type of guide on the net. A track saw is no doubt an excellent tool, but a saw guide like mine seems to do the trick and the costs can't be compared.

[Jamie Buxton]

Okay, here's some things you don't get with the Rockler approach...

You can't get a single-piece guide that will rip a full sheet of plywood. Combining two short guides into one guide is likely to get you a guide with a bend in the middle, which isn't much use. In the normal shop process of flinging an eight-foot object around, the joiner devices are going to slip.

You must offset your cut marks, which is opportunity for mistakes.

There's no dust collection. That has turned out to be a very nice feature on my track saw.

You can't plunge-cut the saw, which turns out to be useful.

The T-square arm, if connected as shown in the pic, is going to get cut by the saw.


So you spends yer money and you get yer choice.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

You noted the first thing that jumped out at me (you must calculate the offset). Here are a few other things that come to mind:

Most track systems I have seen or used have a more robust "capture" system to hold things in place. For example, on my Dewalt track, the saw sits entirely over the top of the track and I can adjust to make certain that I have no play. This adjustment is in two places (front and back). Also, by setting the saw on top of the track, this helps hold the track in place. My primary use is to drop some Styrofoam insulation on the floor, place the wood on the Styrofoam, place the track on the wood, place the saw on the track (set it with a square). If I am careful, the track won't move, even without the clamps; probably a good thing, since in this configuration, there is no room for me to clamp the track to the wood.