Benefits Of A Stationary Cabinet Saw

[Stan Figura]

Hello Everyone:

After lurking here for three years, this is my first post.

First of all, I would like to thank everyone for providing an invaluable source of information to a hobbyist like myself. I have been impressed by everyone's willingness to provide advice and answer woodworking questions.

After almost 20 years of using my Ryobi BT3000 (the best rhombus-cutting saw on the market), I am finally about to pull the trigger on a new cabinet saw.

I am planning on purchasing a Sawstop PCS with an industrial mobile base. My shop is located in my garage. My garage is three car size but is intended for two cars only. The "half car" space on one side of the overhead door is devoted to bike and garden storage and stairs to an attic. The other "half car" space on other side of the overhead door is my shop space where I will locate my new saw.

Given my space configuration, If I purchase a saw with 52" inch rails, I will have to store the saw lengthwise along the wall and rotate it perpendicular to the wall when I want to use it. If I purchase a saw with 36" inch rails, I think I will be able to leave the saw perpendicular to the wall on a more or less "permanent" basis, which would permit me to also build a "permanent" outfeed table for the saw.

After spending years moving everything every time I wanted to accomplish anything, the 36" rail stationary configuration with outfeed table greatly appeals to me.

I have a Festool tracksaw for use breaking down sheet goods, so having the extra table width does not seem critical to me. While I have worked on a handful of projects that required rip cuts greater than 36" inches, those projects are few and far between and generally involved cutting case backs which really don't have to be perfect anyway. In any event, I managed to get by on those projects using my tracksaw.

So here is my question: Am I better off with a mostly stationary 36" saw, or a 52" saw that I will have to re-position whenever I want to use it? Since I have never owned a cabinet saw, I really have no idea how much of a hassle it is moving a 52" saw, even on an industrial base.

Thanks in advance for your comments and advice.

[Jim Barrett]

In the 25+ years of woodworking I never used the capacity of my rip fence rails which was ~50". I recently purchased a SawStop PCS and opted for the 36" rails...

Jim

[Randy Karst]

For many of us, space (and time) are some of our greatest challenges. I agree with Stan, get the 36" rail version-I think this is all the more viable given your Festool tracksaw.

Randy

[Ruperto Mendiones]

Stan:

I have nearly the same situation as you do: a crowded 3 car garage filled with machines and no parking space and a 52" sawstop taking most of one parking stall. Very seldom do I need the extra length of the saw table but I do need more outfeed space. I consider re-configuring to 36" frequently. Your track saw strengthens the argument for 36" IMHO.

Ruperto

[Jamie Buxton]

Yep, a track saw for the first few cuts on a sheet of plywood, and for straight-lining rough lumber, and a table saw for smaller stuff.

However, I'd keep the table saw on wheels. In a small shop, it is good to be able to reconfigure the space. Maybe you need to move the big machines to assemble a large piece of furniture. Wheels make that a lot easier.

An outfeed table on the table saw is a good thing. Buy or make one that cantilevers off the back of the saw, and folds down when it is not in use. Here's a commercial example -- http://www.woodcraft.com/PRODUCT/2020511/22598/HTC-UNIVERSAL-TABLE-SAW-OUTFEED-ROLLER-TABLE.ASPX?refcode=10INGOPB&gclid=CLeRxpml4rYCFTBxQgodahIANg
There have also been shop-built versions discussed on this forum. You get an outfeed table, but it doesn't eat floor space when you're not using it -- very good for a small shop.

[James Baker SD]

I had a PM-66 with 52" rip capacity that needed the exact same movement from the wall to be usable. In 10 years I never needed to make a wide rip, although I did use the table to "store stuff" (which you could do on the permanent outfeed :) Biggest drawback for me was the movement meant I had to use a lot of flex to make a temporary connection to my DC. Often when in a rush, I just did not bother and ended up with dust everywhere eventually. I sold the PM last summer and replaced it with a slider with narrow rip capacity to the right of the blade. The saw now sits permanently in one spot (hasn't moved in months, no mobile base at all) and has a permanent connection to my DC. I can squeeze the car in as the sliding table is parallel to the car. Much happier with this setup and haven't missed the wide rip yet.

James

[glenn bradley]

Obviously this depends on what you do. I had a 30" rip that often seemed too short. I shifted the fence tube and made it a 40" rip that was often plenty. My new saw is 52" but, I do not move it around. The tube on the PCS can be shifted as well so if you went with the 36" and wanted a bit more rip, you could shift it.

[david brum]

The day that I replaced my BT3000 with a cabinet saw was a happy day. I could never figure out why people were so attached to them.

I had to chose between a 30" rail or a 50" rail on my cabinet saw. I went with the shorter length and have been perfectly happy with it for 5+ years. Anything wider gets cut with a track saw, but those occasions are very rare.

[Rick Potter]

After a few years of not needing it, I cut my Unifence down to 32". Works fine for most work. With a track saw, I don't see you needing the longer version.

AS far as moving a cabinet saw, if it has a good mobile base, it's no problem.

Rick Potter

[Victor Robinson]

I have the 36" rails and have never needed more. Like you, if I had the 52" rails, the saw would have to be moved in order to use it. I find having a stationary setup to be much more useful. In a cramped space you have to move many of your tools in order to use them. But moving them is a pain that is tempting to skip over, leading to shortcuts. The easier a tool is to ready, the more likely it gets used in my shop.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I have an 52" ICS with the industrial mobile base. It's in a 2 car garage with 1 car in it, so I have to juggle things around to use anything. The question I have is if you're goping to need a 34" or 40" rip capacity. As many have said, I've not ripped anything near 50" but repeatedly ripping 40" is nice.... Moving your PCS with the industrial base is no problem. It is a hard choice. Your track saw does point you in the 32" direction. If I had one, my choice may have been different.

I dropped a router base in the wing of the saw, which helps a lot in conserving space. That may be a good choice for you too. Whether you get the longer rails or not.

[Matt Meiser]

I also bought the 36" rails because like you I cut my sheet goods with a Festool saw. With the money saved on a smaller fence, buy the Seneca Woodworking parallel guides and you can make repeated rips of whatever size you buy the Incra track in with a lot less effort. Even before with the Festool parallel guides which weren't nearly as good, I can't remember the last time I had my fence very far out.

[Rod Sheridan]

In 30 years as a hobby worker I've never regretted sticking to the 32" range rip capacity..............Regards, Rod.

[Dave Cav]

I have a 52" SS PCS at school, and a Delta 12/14 with the same capacity at home. I think I have needed that much capacity one time at home, and never at school. I'd stick with the 32".

[Steve Baumgartner]

I have a Unisaw with a 52 inch Biesmeier fence. However, I can't maneuver a full 4x8 sheet around the corner into my shop, so I always break sheet goods down with a Festool track saw first (and much of the time that's all I need to do). Like others have said, the end of the table gets used more as a shelf for parts in progress, the miter gauge while ripping, push sticks, rulers, and so forth, almost never for its full width as a fence. If I had it to do over, I'd get a 32 inch'er. However, I very often need to rip pieces longer than can be safely supported by the table saw alone, and I'd very strongly recommend getting an outfeed table. For a long time I used a roller stand to catch the material, but it was just as much in the way as a table would have been, less sturdy (tends to catch and tip over if the material sags). So now I have an outfeed table and like it a lot better. If space is at a premium that way too, you could consider one of the fold-down ones.

Steve

[Bill Space]

Hi,

I have a 52" fence on my saw as well... But considering your situation, I would go with the 36" fence.

In my case, I use the extra width of my fence with a built in router table, that uses the table saw fence to hold a secondary fence that I use with the router. This is a useful advantage of the extra long fence for me, which does not apply in your case it seems.

I have cut 4x8 sheets on my saw, but not often and a track saw would have eliminated that need. For that purpose, in my case, a track saw would have been better I bet.

The roll out table is a great asset. I have a home built one that is 6' wide and 4' deep (in the direction the work travels) and feel this is worth much more to me than extra travel of the fence.

Hope this helps!

Bill

[scott vroom]

Wow..this may be a first!! All 16 responders thus far are in agreement. No controversy, no debating, pure bliss :)


Yes, go with the shorter rails. You will be happier.

[Wade Lippman]

Wow..this may be a first!! All 16 responders thus far are in agreement. No controversy, no debating, pure bliss :)


Yes, go with the shorter rails. You will be happier.
Well, I have to strongly disagree. I have the regular professional mobile base and fine it works really well. I can't agree with the industrial base at all.

Oh wait, this is really about the rail length. Yeah sure, the shorter rails will be fine 99.9% of the time. I got long rails because I had the room; if I didn't, I would get the short one without any concern.
But if you can mount the rails further over, that would be good. When I had a Grizzly 28" I wanted 35" a lot more often then I put the fence on the left.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Wow..this may be a first!! All 16 responders thus far are in agreement. No controversy, no debating, pure bliss :)

No, no, no, I disagree, "pure bliss" would need to include something yummy to eat or drink :D


Yes, go with the shorter rails. You will be happier.

I have never used the full length of my fence. I think that I would have trouble handling something that deep.... Takes two people, and I would still prefer to do it with a track saw.... In fact, some here have chosen to not have a table saw at all and just use the Festool system. I think that I would still want the table saw.

I use the extra space for a built in router table.

[Denny Rice]

JMHO, I am in agreement with 99.5 percent of the guys here (no pun intended Wade) LOL:D! I have owned the same saw with 36" rails and have never had a problem working with sheet goods, I just believe if space is a premium in your shop and I don't care how small or large your shop is right now, one day you will fill it up and wish you had that extra space back. JMHO

[Geoff Barry]

Stan, I think you'll be pretty fired up about any new cabinet saw :) I started with a BT3100 for 5 or 6 years, then had a CI contractor's saw for about a year until I lucked into a craftsman 22124 hybrid cabinet saw. World of difference. I really liked the BT3100 (I still miss the SMT), but ripping, well, anything, is so much better . . ..