Bandsaw Fence Advice

[Noah Barfield]

Hi all,

SWMBO has approved my purchase of a bandsaw with part of this year's tax return. After looking around a different 14" models in my price range, I've decided to get the Rikon 10-325 currently on sale through Woodcraft. It has all of the features I'm looking for at a great price. However, the one consistent negative is that it comes with a fairly cheap fence. What would be a nice after-market fence I could add to it?

Sincerely,

Noah

[William Bachtel]

2 clamps and a piece of wood.

[Rich Harkrader]

My neighbor has this Carter fence and swears by it.
http://www.carterproducts.com/product.asp?product_id=474&cat_id=75

[Peter Blair]

Best fence made as far as I'm concerned is the Drift Master by Laguna.

A couple of years ago I sold a couple of flatwork power tools and bought the Laguna 14" SUV and the Drift Master fence and aside from my lathe it is my favourite tool.

Can be seen here
http://www.lagunatools.com/bandsaw-driftmaster

[Reed Gray]

I have had continual problems with the fences on my 2 bandsaws. I can never seem to get them lined up perfectly straight. Since I am only cutting bowl blanks, it isn't important. I have plywood strips that I use to mark out parallel sides of the blanks and free hand it. I have tried a couple different methods of lining up the fence, and they work one time, but not the next, and for some reason, when unused, my fences seem to move just like wood does. Both the Laguna and Carter fences look nice, and I may have to investigate. And I was thinking there was probably nothing left that I 'really' needed in my shop, well, other than about 4 times the floor space....

robo hippy

[Paul Gilbert]

"And I was thinking there was probably nothing left that I 'really' needed in my shop, well, other than about 4 times the floor space...."

Reed - I thought there were some laws governing this condition. SHMBO states emphatically that this is my current condition. I, on the other hand have always lusted for just one more toy.

[Jeff Jackson]

Hi Noah
Whichever fence you decide on, you should be able to adjust it for the drift of the blade you are working with. Blades sometimes don't necessarily cut square to the saw itself, so the fence angle would have to be adjusted accordingly. I'm sure if you searched for it you will find numerous articles on it.
FWIW If I am just ripping some rough turning blanks that don't need to be exact, I don't usually worry about it. But if I want a more accurate cut, I will go ahead and adjust it.
Hope this helps!:)
Jeff

[robert baccus]

Very good point as few people know about aligning the fence properly and then cuss the wood or saw blade. Some saws/blades don't seem to need it but most do and the wood is another variable.

[Harry Robinette]

The main thing for you to remember is most after market fences will not work on the Rikon bandsaw because they install there blades from the side were you stand NOT the front. After market fences have to be removed every time you change the blade, then you have to reset the fence again every time and it's a hazel. I hear this allot at work even thou we told them about it before they bought the fence.The one on the Rikon looks a little flimsy but everyone that tries them says they work great. I have the 18" Rikon and the fence works beautiful.I know it's different then the one on the 14"but it's made to move for replacing the blade. Just look into this before you speed the extra money and have the problems.

[Curt Harms]

Hi all,

SWMBO has approved my purchase of a bandsaw with part of this year's tax return. After looking around a different 14" models in my price range, I've decided to get the Rikon 10-325 currently on sale through Woodcraft. It has all of the features I'm looking for at a great price. However, the one consistent negative is that it comes with a fairly cheap fence. What would be a nice after-market fence I could add to it?

Sincerely,

Noah

You might want to try the factory fence before you drop more $ on an aftermarket fence. I modded mine - different bolts and knobs, second bar - and it works pretty well. It's not easy to adjust for drift but I'm in the 'set your saw up right, use a good blade and it won't drift' camp. So far so good with that philosphy. I like being able to use the fence to either the left or right of the blade. Resawing feels better pushing with my right hand, guiding with my left just like a table saw. To rip strips off wide stock, I want the fence to the left of the blade.

260634260635260636

As you can see from the second pic, The Rikon's blade changing slot is different than most band saws, the blade comes straight out rather than making a 90o turn. That's great especially with wide blades but it comes with fence considerations. The factory fence works fine with common T bolts and I replaced the crappy knobs with larger better quality ones. There's a loose brass insert in the fence stub that the tightening bolt bears against. If you remove the stub, don't lose that! That's why I just remove the fence and rotate the stub out of the way without removing it. People have mounted other fences by spacing them away from the front of the table to accomdate the blade change. I don't feel the need to spend the extra $. YMMV of course.

[Thom Sturgill]

I've been watching this with interest. The 14" Rikon is an 'improved' version of the Sears 14" Professional. Rikon uses standard blade lengths and added better tensioning hardware as well as changing the fence quite a bit.

[Paul Singer]

You might want to try the factory fence before you drop more $ on an aftermarket fence. I modded mine - different bolts and knobs, second bar - and it works pretty well. It's not easy to adjust for drift but I'm in the 'set your saw up right, use a good blade and it won't drift' camp. So far so good with that philosphy. I like being able to use the fence to either the left or right of the blade. Resawing feels better pushing with my right hand, guiding with my left just like a table saw. To rip strips off wide stock, I want the fence to the left of the blade.

260634260635260636

As you can see from the second pic, The Rikon's blade changing slot is different than most band saws, the blade comes straight out rather than making a 90o turn. That's great especially with wide blades but it comes with fence considerations. The factory fence works fine with common T bolts and I replaced the crappy knobs with larger better quality ones. There's a loose brass insert in the fence stub that the tightening bolt bears against. If you remove the stub, don't lose that! That's why I just remove the fence and rotate the stub out of the way without removing it. People have mounted other fences by spacing them away from the front of the table to accomdate the blade change. I don't feel the need to spend the extra $. YMMV of course.

Question for Curt: Where did you get the second bar. I like your idea but nor sure how to find that second bar.

Thanks.

[Peter Blair]

As Harry points out because of the table slot the Driftmaster will not work in your situation.

[Noah Barfield]

Thank you to everyone who replied! I bit the bullet and ordered the band saw from my local Woodcraft yesterday. They're delivering it this Friday. Although I've used a band saw before, I have a lot to learn!

Noah

[Curt Harms]

Question for Curt: Where did you get the second bar. I like your idea but nor sure how to find that second bar.

Thanks.

I ordered it from Rikon, the manual will have the part#. I think it cost $20, may have been less.

[steve worcester]

having owned several bandsaws from a Delta, then with riser, a Laguna 16 and now a Laguna 24(x24) the fence doesn't make the saw. Bandsaw baldes will drift from blade to balde and as long as you can adjust it out of parallel 10 degrees in either way, they all work. If you are going to resaw, the stock fence likely won't work anyway and you will have to build a tall fence that gets clamped down

[Clint Merrill]

I can certainly understand your concern however, the fence is probably the least used part of your new band saw, unless you plan to make a lot of veneers. I would like to suggest you invest about $16.00 in a great book entitled, The New Complete Guide to the Band Saw, by Mark Duginske. You will find answers to any question or concern you may have. It is a 'MUST HAVE' tutorial on the band saw. I got mine from Amazon and refer to it often. Hope this will be helpful.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I can certainly understand your concern however, the fence is probably the least used part of your new band saw, unless you plan to make a lot of veneers. I would like to suggest you invest about $16.00 in a great book entitled, The New Complete Guide to the Band Saw, by Mark Duginske. You will find answers to any question or concern you may have. It is a 'MUST HAVE' tutorial on the band saw. I got mine from Amazon and refer to it often. Hope this will be helpful.

I agree with all the above and also reccomend the piece of wood and 2 clamps fence. Cheap, fast and easy. Some of the pros claim that you can adjust out all drift from any "good" band saw. Therefore, your stock fence should also be fine. I have a Kreg fence for my PM saw, and it usually sits on the shelf. I don't know if they make one for your saw, but there are a lot of accessories for the fence, should you still want to get an aftermarket fence. They do have a tall fence attachment for veneers.

Buy a new blade with your Rikon. The stock blade is not that great.

[Noah Barfield]

Thank you to everyone for your recommendations! Clint, I appreciate the book recommendation too. I have it on hold at my local library and look forward to reading it soon.

Kyle, do you have a blade recommendation?

Noah

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Kyle, do you have a blade recommendation? Noah

I use Timberwolf blades, there are many blades out there, and as many opinions as to which is "best". Pick one up where you get the saw. I would think any "name brand" blade will make you happy. They may even give you a reccomendation and a discount, which is always nice.

[Reed Gray]

This was the latest discussion on bandsaw blades. I prefer the Lennox blades.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?202083-Lenox-Die-Master-Bi-Metal-Blades

robo hippy

[Jeffrey J Smith]

I was a little surprised that the fence that Grizzley offers for their 14" (self proclaimed) Ultimate Band Saw hasn't been mentioned. I ordered one with the tall fence; at the time it was reasonably priced (it's been a while so I don't remember how much, but I'm notoriously cheap when it comes to my bandsaw) and a good performer based on the description a while back on the tool test in (I think) Fine Woodworking.
I'm not a bandsaw whiz, and up until lately have only used mine for cutting bowl blanks, but when I got a new blade from Highland I tried a little resawing and was surprised at how well everything tracked and what a pleasure it was to actually use the fence. Good setup, good blade and a decent fence equals effortless resawing.
I'm not that impressed with the saw itself, but the fence works great.

[Ralph Lindberg]

I also like the Grizzly fence. But a fence that adjusted to be square to the cut would sometimes be nice.

Noah, that being said, I was cutting wood for Ellen these last couple days and noticed that I actually don't use the fence that often, at least when cutting turning wood. Never for bowl, vessel, etc blanks that I cut round and seldom for spindle stock. It really doesn't have to be true and square for turning needs.

I also get my blades from Highland.

[Rob Price]

I can certainly understand your concern however, the fence is probably the least used part of your new band saw, unless you plan to make a lot of veneers. I would like to suggest you invest about $16.00 in a great book entitled, The New Complete Guide to the Band Saw, by Mark Duginske. You will find answers to any question or concern you may have. It is a 'MUST HAVE' tutorial on the band saw. I got mine from Amazon and refer to it often. Hope this will be helpful.

I'll second that. Also watch this video: http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DwGbZqWac0jU. I've seen this guy in person twice at our local WW'ing club. Took 1/16 slices off a 8" wide chunk of wood with a straight fence and no drift. He does things just a hair differently from what you may read in some books, but I can tell you this is how I setup my bandsaw. No drift.