Elm Urn W(WIP)

[Nate Davey]

I picked up two very wet elm logs from a fellow Nichols lathe owner at my wood turners guild meeting. Long have I been jealous of Steve S and his AB where he could throw a log up and turn away. So I'm giving it a shot.
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The log started out 14"x20" and about 80lbs. Here is Jerry's Marcantel's chuck plate in use. Really makes work like this easy and holds it extremely securely.
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After the exterior is roughed and starting on the hollowing.
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This is the largest of the hollowing bars Nichols made. I'm going to sort out a way to trap the back of the bar as it wan't to jump a bit when you are deep.
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Here is the the rough shape, 10"x19" by 1.5" thick. I coated the pith, inside and out, copiously with CA, placed it in a bag and will let it dry. My intent is to round the shoulder a bit more, reduce the hight of the "funnel" and refine the outside curve. Can't wait for it to dry.

Thanks for looking.

[Eric Gourieux]

Nate, that's a great looking rough-out. This will open up your options to a whole new world of hollowing.

Would you share a little about the boring bar? I am wanting to make a captured rig with a long boring bar in order to reach deeper than my articulated hollower (ala Monster). How thick is the bar? How do the tips fit into the bar?

[Steve Schlumpf]

Nice work Nate!! Turning logs can be fun!!:D Looking forward to seeing the vase once it is finished!!

[Dave Fritz]

I'm curious about the third picture. The boring bar appears to be on top of the rear capture piece rather than between the two bars. Is that the way you use it and if so do you have problems with it twisting?

It seems like doing bigger things can be a vortex of it's own. I'm afraid to get me feet wet for fear of where I might end up.

Nice piece.

Dave F.

[Jerry Marcantel]

Nate, thanks for the comment on the Chuck Plate. Your piece of wood is certainly larger than I've ever done, so it's even better than I thought... My observation of picture # 3 looks like your anti twist set up on the bar is at the tool rest with something that looks like it's allowed to slide forward and back, but also swivel to meet your cutting needs. Is that how it's works????

I'm looking forward to seeing this urn completed. ............. Jerry (in Tucson)

[Tim Rinehart]

Very nice Nate. That's looking good already, can't wait to see when completed. I'll have to let Anatoly know you are in deep now...no pun intended!
The other option to building another gate in the back, may be to just attach an extra weight as far outboard as you can for additional ballast.
How's the front captured gate working, do you lubricate it to keep smooth action?
Jerry, I think you have a complete understanding of what that front gate is doing correctly, but Nate can clarify if needed.

[Baxter Smith]

Looks good Nate. You probably could go thinner in the roughing out stage since shrinkage should be pretty even all the way around.

[robert baccus]

I do a lot of vases that size--really looks good so far. I am conservative about drying big wood and your climate might justify greater precautions ie slower. You could get by with a thinner wall perhaps while wet--dry elm interors can be tough. Nice shape and good luck

[Nate Davey]

I'll try and answer, clearly, all the questions...here goes.

Eric, the square stock is 1" thick. The business end might look something like this::D
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There are, also, intermediated sections so you can articulate the end a bit more. The circular cutter is an original Glaser.

Dave, this was never a captured hollowing system. If you do an "Elmer Adams" search on YouTube, it shows a similar system really well. The rear rest also is used as a long tool rest when you have a second banjo. Here's Anatoly Tsiris using his.
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Jerry, you hit it on the head. The square block on the banjo's hight is controlled by the stop collar, I don't tighten down the tool post screw so it turns freely. The fit is pretty tight so it stops twisting.

Tim, tell Anatoly this is his fault, I never would have bought a Nichols had I not seen his......which means it's your fault. I sprayed the bar and gate with WD-40, slides very easily.

Baxter and Bob, thanks for the advice on the big forms, I didn't really know how thick to leave it, so erred on the side of "safety" It's wrapped up in a plastic bag with the mouth open so it dries from the inside out. We'll see how it works.

[Jerry Marcantel]

Nate, what is the size of the tenon on this piece? If you don't mind devulging how you plan on removing the tenon, could you please explain how you are going to do it. Also, when you get ready to turn off the tenon, holler at me, and if you are interested, I'll loan you a tool to aid in the removal of that tenon...... Jerry (in Tucson)