Fear + chainsaw = teaching + training + caution

[Brian Kent]

Well, I have saved up for a chainsaw.

Now that I can buy it I am very aware of the power and inherent danger of the tool. I have been reading OSHA guidelines, watching safety videos from the Husqvarna website, and I will get a walk through demo from the local shop where I am buying it. I have not found a class to take. I've seen some local chainsaw trimmers doing things I already know are dangerous.

So I will accept book or video advice and would welcome training from someone in San Diego County area so I use this effectively without hurting anyone.

The local dealer sells only Stihl and Husqvarna chainsaws. He listened to my specific uses are recommended the 450-e ($369). For safety equipment I purchased the Husqvarna "Chainsaw Protective Apparel Power Kit: Landowner" (full head gear, apron chaps, gloves, suspenders, and glasses).

When I replace the fear with knowledge, training, and safe practices, this will become a gloat.

[Jack Mincey]

Hi Brain, There are chain saw safety programs offered through the Smoky Mountain National Park here for volunteers that are welling to clean trails in the park. They have to pass the class before they are allowed to use a chainsaw in the park. Not sure if you live near a national park, but it would be a place to check out if you do. A chain saw deserves a lot of respect. Just about everyone I know around my area use a chain saw and most accidents happen to people that have used them for years from being over confident with them. Jack

[Fred Belknap]

Seems like you have done well, now replace the fear with respect and knowledge and you will be fine. I live in an area where most people own and use chainsaws and as usual there are occasional accidents. Most accidents are related to cutting standing timber. Most are hit by falling trees or limbs, had a neighbor killed several years ago when a grape vine on a falling tree pulled a limb on him. Most of your problems will be with sharpening and keeping the saw from getting stuck in a log. I have used a chain saw all my life and am still not comfortable with felling larger trees.

[Hilel Salomon]

I have been using a chainsaw for about 16 years (late in life for me) and heard enough horror stories to proceed with caution. Got lots of chainsaws (more than I need of course) and I would just add a few pointers to any video you see. A sharp chain actually helps safety as it cuts easily and you are not tempted to push hard or get into a dangerous position while cutting. It is always a good idea to have a friend nearby. When I've cut down big trees, I've had a friend pulling on a rope or chain from a safe position behind something so that my aim was augmented. Generally, the tree goes where I want it to, but every so often it doesn't want to, and a friend "coaxing" it is a good idea. In addition to this, even when you are cutting downed or leaning trees, it is a good idea to have someone nearby, ready to call emergency services. I no longer go up to the mountains alone. Oh... if you are going to be cutting on slopes, wet ground and other places, chainsaw boots are not bad to have. At the very least, use boots with steel toes.
Good Luck,
Hilel

[Prashun Patel]

From your other posts, I'm guessing you'll be using this at first to do more log harvesting into blanks rather than tree felling. I recommend Bill Grumbine's dvd, Turned Bowls Made Easy. I have only been harvesting logs into blanks for a couple years now, but I'll offer my advice, FWIW:

- Make a portable saw buck.
- Get a cant hook (timberjack). I think I've done damage to my back by attempting to move logs awkwardly.
- Never ground your chain. It's counterintuitive, but a second on soft dirt will kill a chain faster than 50 logs.
- Understand how kickback and pull-in work.
- Wear hearing protection.
- Resist the temptation to harvest every bit of the log. I used to think that all free wood was gold, and I'd spend too much time making silk purses out of sows' ears. Rather, look for one or a few of the choicest pieces. Trust me, there's more wood around than you'll be able to - um - shake a stick at.

[David C. Roseman]

You're getting some great advice here. That's a nice saw, and the safety kit is a great idea. With a basic safety course, or some instruction from an experienced, safety-conscious friend, I think you'll be off to a good start. I've been using chain saws for 40 years, and have been fortunate not to have an accident, despite often honoring good safety practices in the breach. I find myself becoming more safety-conscious the more I use them.

A couple of additional points. Even when we know what to do, many of the accidents occur due to fatigue - e.g., tripping over debris or vines, being out of position or off-balance when starting or finishing a cut, not clearing away dead fall, or not taking the time to brace a log well before sawing into half rounds. So staying alert and pacing yourself is critical no matter how experienced.

At the same time, I think it's possible when starting out to be too fearful and tentative using the saw. That can be just as dangerous. It's just a tool that you're putting to work for you. Firm, balanced control using your whole body goes a long way, just as it does when roughing out a big bowl blank on a lathe. :)

David

[Dan Hintz]

I have a 20" Husky, don't know the exact model offhand... no other safety advice than what has already been offered here, but I will add this must do...

Replace the gas hose now before you start using it. I waited (didn't know) and ended up spending $100+ on a rebuild a year and a half later. The ethanol in today's gas is a killer on the tubes, and Husky (for whatever reason) insists on using plastics that are readily attacked by ethanol. If you don't replace it with the proper rubber line, the tube will slowly melt away and clog up the carburetor.

The part will costs you <$10 and take less than an hour to install, but it will save you days/weeks of downtime and a lot of cash in the long run...

[Bernie Weishapl]

Congrats Brian. You got the equipment and a lot of good advice. I agree with David and don't let fear take over.

[Richard Coers]

Are you sure you should get a chain saw? Respect for a power tool is one thing, fear is something completely different. Plenty of folks like to sell wood blanks, and I bet a tree service would even sell you some slabs. By the time you consider the saw, apparel kit, extra chains, Sta-bil, chain files, etc..... You could buy a lot of blanks. No fear in that at all.

[bob svoboda]

Good advice above. Common sense must prevail-if a cut seems dangerous, assume it is. As far as the ethanol issue, I only use clear (non-ethanol) premium gasoline in my small engines. Good luck and be safe.

[Reed Gray]

A lot of the arborists will cut a log into firewood sections. Not too difficult to cut those into bowl blank sections. If you are there when they are sectioning the log, they can cross cut it where you want. Give them a bowl or two.

I keep a supply of plywood strips, 1/2 inch increments, from 1 to 8 inch wide for marking out the log as to how I want to slab it up. Wedge the log section so it won't roll. I then mark (sharpie or pencil) a plumb line, front and back through the center/pith of the log, or to either side of it depending on size and any pith cracks that are already in the log. Leave 1/2 inch for kerf/width of chain cut. I will put marks on top of the log so I can see the back side line. Getting a straight, no bumps and humps cut takes practice. I make a marking cut on the back side, and then on the front side. I eyeball the the blade parallel to the marked lines, and that generally gets it fairly straight. The more you rock the saw back and forth as you cut, the more bumps you get. I start with a flat rip straight across the top, and pivot the cut down the back side as far as I can without hitting dirt. Then push down on the front side trying to follow the line, and looking through the kerf to see if it is going straight. Takes some practice. If you are taking multiple slabs, cut 90% through, then finish from the outside in. Hopefully this keeps the log section from rolling over as you finish the cut.

Do not do the drop pull start up. Have chain brake on when starting. Saw on ground, foot in handle, and yes, you have to bend over.

If you are going to cut up a log yourself, be careful. They can roll. Most common happening is you cut through, and the log settles, and your blade gets pinched. Done that more times than I want to admit. Keep several plastic or wood wedges so when you get half or more of the way through, drive the wedge in tight. You can cut 3/4 through, and then roll the log. Helpers or a couple of 4 x 4s can work as well, then cut the rest of the way through.

Keep the round nose end of the saw from contacting anything.

Keep a couple of chains handy, and know how to change them out.

Sharpening your chain by hand is simple, but it helps to have some one who knows how guide you the first few times. Do wear gloves for this.

Most other stuff is covered by the store instructions and video instructions.

If you are thinking about falling a tree, go to You Tube and type in tree falling accidents. Some of these clips show 'professionals'.

Hand truck, don't leave home without it.

robo hippy

[J.D.Redwine]

Read the directions.

[Hilel Salomon]

I would add a note to Dan's about the gas hose. I only use high octane ethanol-free gas and an oil mix which has an additive/preservative. If you can't find a station that sells ethanol free gas, HD and Lowe's sell ready mixed gas/oil. These are expensive, but as the Stihl dealer in VA jokingly added, they are a lot less expensive than changing out a carburetor. Another note:
In the past, it was recommended to empty a chainsaw or weedeater's tank when the tool wouldn't be used for a while. I have found that this invites moisture and I keep the tank full. I start the machines every 4-6 weeks and let them run about ten minutes and refill the gas/oil during periods when they are not going to be use. I change out the gas completely, every three months. This won't absolutely guarantee an absence of carburetor problems but it will cut down the likelihood of having such problems measurably.

Hilel

[Brian Kent]

I found a nice little "Training Video". Count the stupid mistakes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8LK3dDq0h0

On another note, where do you dispose of your old fuel? This is in a city context.

[Olaf Vogel]

About 3 years ago I went shopping at a local hardware store. The sales guy was showing me a chainsaw and explaining the features.
So my wife walks up, looks at it, and says "That one's good..... should go through bone very well...." then calmly walks away.....

The poor bewildered sales guy was now seriously wondering if he should sell me a saw or call the cops.
And I had a chat with my wife about her sardonic sense of humor.
__________________________________________________ ______________________________

In all seriousness. I bought 2 Stihl saws, all used. The gas version always gives me trouble (Admittedly, carburetors seem to conspire against me).
The other one is an E20 electric - and its AWESOME! More torque than I need, its quiet, never any stop start issues and I can use it indoors, and on Sunday mornings, without pissing off the neighbors (or my equally dangerous wife)

I've cut logs 20" in diameter and just cleared a portion of my lot with it, to build a new shop.

I like it so much that I just bought its little brother the E14 for more "delicate" work. I.e. when a big piece is on the lathe and I need to hack off a few corners quickly.
Neither have ever bucked on me, despite rough treatment.

I've tried some other electric saws and the Stihl is still my top vote. The new Makita gets great reviews as well.

And the gas version hasn't been used in a year......

[robert baccus]

All really good advice for sure. As a starter I might stick to a smaller saw, 435 H and a 16" bar unless you are cutting awful big timber. Roger the 2 wedges in the back pocket. I just saved a tree headed for my shop with 2 wedges. A friend had a tree set backwards while still on the hinge trapping the bar. Sharpen the blade 1/2 hour before it needs it and saw your blocks in half with the grain. A friend watching is the best safety device. An electric in the shop in super handy.

[Reed Gray]

Well, at least he lived to tell about it.

One story about old fuel... I kept my gas can outside on a shelf that got some sun every day. Bleached out the plastic can. Filled up the saw. Ran it till lunch, then went back out after lunch, and couldn't even pull the rope. Took it to Mr. Chanisaw (actual business name) and they took it apart. The piston was frozen, and the inside of the cylinder was glazed over. Seems like the sun percolated the fuel down way too thin. Cost about $180.

robo hippy

[David Weaver]

I have the predecessor of the saw mentioned here, mine is a 350 husky. better than a department store saw, not as good as the high end saws, but will be plenty good for roughing blocks.

Mine is currently waiting for me to replace the fuel line on it, it is almost 10 years old, though and the line didn't crack until last year. The line is about $5 at home depot, or any place that carries fuel line. I'm sure it's probably about 30 cents a foot in a bulk roll, but good luck finding it that cheap. It will be available when yours cracks, though, and better to buy when it cracks than now, or you might have a cracked line and a cracked spare.

I had a great uncle who lost his life to kickback about 25 years ago - basically bled out before he could get out of the woods. I had a coworker whose brother lost his life to kicback cleaning up storm debris - kicback to the neck. And my grandfather (BIL to the person who lost his life) cut wood for a living and buried a saw in his leg and had to get about 60 stitches.

I've never felt too worried about kickback, but felling trees has always given me the willies if they're not straight up and down, in perfect health and with lots of room and no possible entanglements. Even then, you can get yourself in trouble. I don't know if you intend to fell any trees with it, but if you do, watch as much stuff about it as you can and avoid anything that isn't plain vanilla.

[Dan Hintz]

It will be available when yours cracks, though, and better to buy when it cracks than now, or you might have a cracked line and a cracked spare.
The pain I'm hoping to have him avoid is when the tube melts and clogs up the works... cracking I could have dealt with, but once it hit the carburetor it was done for :-/ And it only took a year or so for me, not 10.

[David Weaver]

Do you have gas down there with more than 15% ethanol? We have 10 here, might make a difference. I'd rather there was no more than what it takes to replace MTBE, and I'm sure a lot of folks with older equipment feel the same way.

[Kathy Marshall]

Brian, once you get comfortable with it, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it. I've had my 18" Echo for about 2 1/2 years and wouldn't be without out. You've gotten lots of advice, just never lose a healthy respect for what it is and what it can do.
Some of my own rules for me are:
Always start it on the ground, with a foot on the handle and the chain brake on.
The only time the chain brake is off is when it is actually cutting.
Don't cut with the tip and only cut when your stance and footing are secure.
Never cut when you're fatigued. When you start getting a little tired and/or sore, then it's time to stop. The "just one more cut (log)" rule applies to chainsawing too.
If you question wether a cut is safe or not, then it probably isn't. Common sense is a wonderful safety feature that you should never be without.

[Brian Kent]

Thank you for all of the good feedback. I appreciate the advice and the repetition.

One of the ways I move into a safety zone with a new tool is to read, hear, & watch safe usage rules over and over and over until it is well ingrained in my mind. That is what moves me from fear to knowledge and respect. I plan on using the tool safely for many years, and this is one where I can't just learn from my mistakes. I'll try to learn from other people's mistakes and establish safe patterns and mental checklists.

And in answer to another question - we have 10% ethanol in California and I will be checking with the old pro at the local shop to see what brand and octane he recommends.

I especially appreciate Richard Coers' question, "Are you sure you should get a chainsaw?". Great question. My answer is "yes" because I want to do things the safest way possible. There is a lot of free wood around here and the safest way for me to process it is to take it down to size before bringing it to my bandsaw and lathe. I plan on doing this enough times that it will be much more economical than buying blanks. Also beyond the turning hobby, there are still 10-12 clusters of 3" oleanders (about 30 per cluster) on my property that need to be removed for wildfire safety. They cut easily but take a lot of time.

[Scott Conners]

I was afraid before I first got a saw too. Then I had the opportunity to use my dad's (under his tutelage) and realized the fear was misplaced. I was afraid the saw would be hard to use or would fight you, and that's why it was dangerous. Instead, it's extremely simple to use. I find my worm drive skilsaw much more difficult to use comfortably, and a bandsaw far easier to make a safety mistake with. As long as you are paying attention and keep it sharp, a chainsaw is a great tool, and not at all scary. I recommend finding someone to help you cut with it the first time. Ask at the shop, or on here, I'm sure someone is near you. A 30 minute walkthrough in person is worth months of reading.

[Brian Kent]

Dear people who make chainsaw movies (about making lathe bowl blanks),
Moccasins are not adequate protection against chainsaws, especially when using the drop start method, or when using your foot to support the log you are chain-sawing.
Helmets and face-shields are better than goggles.
Balancing the round side of a log on a flat stump isn't all that stable.
Digging into a log with the tip of the chainsaw doesn't look safe, even if you are already a couple of inches in.
Chain saw chaps are safer than jeans.
None of you are using the safety practices that are on the single page OSHA safety guidelines. Thank you for the teaching moments, but please be safer.