How can this be turned without the formation of significant cracks?

[Glen Blanchard]

I saw this photo on a woodturner's website. To me the implication is that he turned the piece on the right from a log similar to the one on the left. This is where I am confused. This would mean that the pith is left intact at the bottom of the piece. How can this be accomplished without getting major cracks around the pith? Does it require that the bottom be turned fairly thin? If so, how can this be done if it is to be turned twice?

I would have thought that the end grain piece on the right would have been turned from a pithless blank.

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[Ted Calver]

Glen, I've done a couple of similar pieces and just saturate the bottom with CA. That has kept splitting to a minimum. All the rest of the pith is turned away.

[Fred Belknap]

I do like Ted and turn them to final thickness. Seldom have any major splitting

[Glen Blanchard]

Glen, I've done a couple of similar pieces and just saturate the bottom with CA. That has kept splitting to a minimum. All the rest of the pith is turned away.

Ted - Did you turn these twice?

[John Beaver]

How do we know there isn't any splitting in the pith of that piece?

[Ted Calver]

Ted - Did you turn these twice?
I did Glen. I put the CA on after the rough out got DNA'd and before I wrapped it up in newspaper and put it on the drying rack.

[David Reed]

Maybe I over analyzed it but it I turned away the pith from a "full log" form. I then fully air dried the piece, turned a dried plug and glued in place. Matched the grain as best I could from a pith free end grain piece. Mine had more of a neck so the bottom was not visible from the top.

[Nate Davey]

+3 on the CA and a lot of luck. Very slow drying and the type of wood may drive a lot of that too.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I also turn mine this way to finish. I drip CA on the inside bottom on the pith and on the outside. As soon as the CA is dry I saturate with Antique oil. Very seldom does it crack.

[Bruce Pratt]

i've done at least half a dozen similar to that form in red oak and maple, turned green to final (~10" x 3"). After turning I double bag in brown grocery bags for drying. Have not needed to use CA on the base. Note: In my experience, when the oak is drying, some small cracks may appear - be patient, most of them will close back up when the form is fully dried.
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Bruce

[Dennis Nagle]

I also turn mine this way to finish. I drip CA on the inside bottom on the pith and on the outside. As soon as the CA is dry I saturate with Antique oil. Very seldom does it crack.


Is that after the second turning Bernie or are you using the Antique Oil to slow the drying process? This is a topic of great interest to me. I picked up a 24" x 32" log today and will start turning it tomorrow. It will be the first thing turned on my new lathe. I would like to ensure it stays uncracked for many years.

[Dennis Ford]

I usually prefer side grain HFs but have done end grain versions also. My preferred method is similar to David Reed's; remove the pith and plug the opening after drying.