how to install a router plate?

[Wade Lippman]

I just got my router lift and template. It is not entirely obvious how one installs it, and there are no directions. I guess Woodpecker assumes you have bought a Woodpecker table.

Do I cut out a hole 5/8" (on all 4 sides) in from the outline of the plate with a jig saw, and then route the recess for plate? Or do I route the recess first and then cut out the opening? Or something else? Maybe 5/8" is too much and the lip should be 1/2"?

A related question... The shaft on the router bit is 1.5". To get it deep enough, I have go put the shaft in 1". That is not as far as I would think proper, but there is no other way to do it. Does that seem adequate? The template is very thick at 3/4".

[Michael W. Clark]

Hi Wade,
I installed a rockler plate several years ago. I didn't know any better and the way I did it was to drill recess at the corners with a forstner bit that matches the corner radius of the plate. Then, I routed between the recesses with a straight bit to make the sides of the recess and create the lip. Cut-out the interior as the last step. It doesn't have to be pretty, and leaving it in gives you support for the router base.

It sounds like you may have a template by your comments in your last question. If this is the case, use a bit with a top mounted bearing to follow the template. If you don't have a template, creating one would be the way I would prefer to do it now.

When you rout the recess for the plate, make sure it is deep enough. If you have levelers on the plate, they will take up any discrepancy. If you make it too shallow, it is more of a problem.

When I install a router bit, I insert it all the way to the bottom of the collet, then raise it slightly. Or, if the shaft is short, I install it so that about a 1/16" of an inch of the machined shaft is showing.

Mike

[Joe Scharle]

I make a frame of scrap, clamped to the table that captures the insert snugly. Remove the insert and using a 'plunge-able' bearing-mounted bit equal to the insert's corner radius, I route a groove around the inside of my frame. The insert gives me an idea of the depth of the groove. I always cut 1/8" deeper because I can always infill. After the groove is cut out, I jigsaw the waste part of the table away, leaving what is now a ledge for the insert to sit upon. It has to be done all in one 'cause it's nigh impossible to position a frame exactly in the same place once it's been removed.

[HANK METZ]

Hope this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5I03sQy2hsg)helps out.

- Beachside Hank
Improvise, adapt, overcome; the essence of true craftsmanship.

[Dick Mahany]

Hope this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5I03sQy2hsg)helps out.

- Beachside Hank
Improvise, adapt, overcome; the essence of true craftsmanship.

I used a method similar to Hank's ( great video BTW !). I used strips with double sticky tape as guides and simply used the actual router plate as the sample for framing. Then I used a router bit with the correct radius to match the Woodpecker plate corners and routed the outline with a top bearing guided bit. I cleaned the rest of the through-opening with a jig saw. Perfect fit, simple and relatively quick.

[Wade Lippman]

I followed your recommendations, and am very glad I did. I thought it made more sense to cut the middle out first, but I used a block the same thickness as the template to hold the other end of the router up, and that made it much easier.

But I have never seen so much dust! I had a vacuum on my router, with the front and back covered, but the dust billowed out. My first experience with MDF; and probably my last. I had the vacuum and two air filters going; I wish I had used a mask...

[Michael Mayo]

I followed your recommendations, and am very glad I did. I thought it made more sense to cut the middle out first, but I used a block the same thickness as the template to hold the other end of the router up, and that made it much easier.

But I have never seen so much dust! I had a vacuum on my router, with the front and back covered, but the dust billowed out. My first experience with MDF; and probably my last. I had the vacuum and two air filters going; I wish I had used a mask...

With MDF a mask is mandatory as the dust developed during machining of that stuff is insane. Breathing that stuff is also very bad for your lungs. I always wear a mask when I am working in the shop as there is just far too much dust for my liking and i don't have a dust collection setup that is convenient to use which causes me to skip it many times.

[Wade Lippman]

I didn't get much on my glasses which are really dust magnets, so I probably didn't breath too much; but it was certainly too much.

[John Piwaron]

But I have never seen so much dust! I had a vacuum on my router, with the front and back covered, but the dust billowed out. My first experience with MDF; and probably my last. I had the vacuum and two air filters going; I wish I had used a mask...

It won't be your last experience with MDF. It's such an awesome material - it's stability lends itself perfectly to so many things. I love it. But like you, I don't love the dust. And it once choked a router to the point it wouldn't run. I took that one apart and cleaned all the dust out. It ran fine afterwards. What happens is that you'll learn to accommodate the dust it can make. with better dust collection, different cutting methods or cutting it outdoors.

[Jim O'Dell]

I bought the template that Woodpecker sells when I bought my PRL v1 a bunch of years ago. I think the recommended template bit is a 5/8". Anchor the template down and route away. You can make your own template as talked about above, use the plate to make the template to match the straight sides then use the 5/8" bit (double check me on the size. I'm sure the Woodpecker site states what to use) to route out the opening. Jim.

[Denny Rice]

Could not agree more! I used a flush trim bit on a piece of MDF the other day and I'm still sweeping up the mess. A good respirator is a must when dealing with MDF.