Lenox Die Master Bi Metal Blades

[Reed Gray]

Well, another topic here. Bandsaw blade choice comes up on all the forums a lot. As near as I can tell, I am one of the very few in the woodturning world who use this blade for cutting on my bandsaws. I read with interest, Brian Kent's problems with the Eucalyptus. So, being the curious type, I offered a trade. I sent him one of the Lenox blades, and he is sending me some eucalyptus blanks. He commented that there was a big difference in it cutting much faster than the Timberwolf blades he was using, and they cut straight.

Is there any one else out there besides me who used these blades? I did call Lenox, and they seem to think that they are well known every where. When I pointed out to them that the woodturning forums are world wide, and their name almost never comes up, they were surprised. I really think these are the best value blades out there.

robo hippy

[John Beaver]

I cut blanks with a Lenox #32 Wood blade. Don't know if it's a Die Master, but it works great.

[Brian Kent]

Reed, thank you for starting this thread.

I have been using Timberwolf blades since I got the bandsaw years ago. In general, they have served me well. I had a 3/4" Timberwolf 2-3 tpi variable tooth blade, which worked well on most wood. A recent cut on some dry avocado was straight, smooth, and a nice steady feed. My problem comes with Eucalyptus, which I have posted about several times before. The first 4 pictures show the best I could do. I also added a picture of what happend when you try to split a Eucalyptus trunk. Very reactive, twisty, impossible wood.

[Brian Kent]

Then I changed over to the Lenox blade that Reed so kindly sent to me. It is a Lenox Diemaster bi-metal blade, 1/2 inch, 3 tpi, .035 thick.

I sawed the same log straight, even, no binding, no pressure. I didn't even have to hold my tongue at an angle. Very soon I had a box full of straight blanks to send to Reed.

On this strange Eucalyptus, the Lenox made a world of difference. Same saw set-up. G0513X2.

[Richard Jones]

I've used the Diemaster for several years, won't ever go back to TW or WS.........mostly a 1/2" .035 3tpi..........(on my big saw)

[Greg McClurg]

Reed, Where do you buy your lenox blades?

[Dan Forman]

Reed --- What's a good source for these, Nobody carries the 3 tooth around here, only the higher tooth count ones for cutting metal. I'm assuming it's the 3 tpi hook you are using? Is this the Diemaster 2?

Best price I've found so far is about $36 each from Toolcenter.com for a 111" (14" bandsaw). I haven't ordered yet, but have been wanting to try

Dan

[Reed Gray]

I am lucky to have a guy here in town who makes them, Oregon Industrial Supply. A contractor friend, who also turns, sent me to him when I got my first bandsaw. Lenox does have a home web page, and I found it difficult to navigate, but they do have an 800 phone number. I would think they would be available in any larger metropolitan area, especially if there are band saw mills around. I think my 96 inch blades are about $28. I can't really say that I have seen a tool test on bandsaw blades. Kind of difficult to do, same piece of wood, constant feed rate, etc.

http://www.gooregonindustrial.com/

http://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/Category.aspx?category=BAND+SAW+BLADES

robo hippy

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Thanks Robo, Pal,
You just cost me 56 bucks when I swore I wouldn't buy any more turning tools (this week).
faust

[Dennis Ford]

I use Lenox blades and like them a lot. The diemaster blades are bimetal (high speed steel steel tips on carbon steel bands) and are very durable. Lenox also makes execellent carbon steel blades. Small saws will do better with thinner carbon steel blades (they are easier to tension). I have used Timberwolf blades and they cut well when new but did not last as long.

[Brian Kent]

I would like to add a surprise I got when comparing the previous blade and the Lenox. Just using a fingernail-catch sharpness test, the Timberwolf still felt a bit sharper, even though the Lenox was cutting better. It looks like the Timberwolf is a thinner blade (.025" vs .035") and not bi-metal.

It would be interesting to know the difference in the amount of set also.

[Phil Maddox]

That's all I use - mostly 3/8" - 4tpi hook tooth from Woodcraft Bands - best prices I have found, fast shipping. These things seem to last forever but I remember hearing that some saws can't tension them properly, I have had no problems.

Thanks

Phil

[Chris Padilla]

Not a turner but I do have great experience with the Lenox Diemaster2 bi-metal blade. I use my bandsaw for resawing so keep that in mind. I have the 1/2" 6 tpi, hook-style blade and it has really worked well for me in resawing. I never had much luck with Timberwolf blades so I do not use them any longer (they do not stay sharp very long nor cut very cleanly). I also use the Lexon Trimaster carbide blade ($$$s) and it is also very nice for resawing but the Diemaster2 is an excellent blade for the cost.

[Clint Merrill]

FYI. You might look at Packard Woodworks for Olson1/2 in,3tpi, hook tooth, bi-metal blades, 105 in. for under $20.00. Just my .02 for what it is worth.

[robert baccus]

Just a dumb question Brian--were you freehanding or using a fence when the saw did the crazy curving. May not be your blade?

[Eric Gourieux]

Reed,
I purchased a few Lenox blades a few months ago, based on the recommendation of somebody here on the Creek. They are superior blades, in my opinion. Although they cost a little bit more, the have already paid for themselves. Love 'em.

[Dan Forman]

I am lucky to have a guy here in town who makes them, Oregon Industrial Supply. A contractor friend, who also turns, sent me to him when I got my first bandsaw. Lenox does have a home web page, and I found it difficult to navigate, but they do have an 800 phone number. I would think they would be available in any larger metropolitan area, especially if there are band saw mills around. I think my 96 inch blades are about $28. I can't really say that I have seen a tool test on bandsaw blades. Kind of difficult to do, same piece of wood, constant feed rate, etc.

http://www.gooregonindustrial.com/

http://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/Category.aspx?category=BAND+SAW+BLADES

robo hippy

Current online price for 96" blade is $39.40 according to their website. http://www.gooregonindustrial.com/ Maybe they are cheaper in their store.

Looking at their site again, I see an address here in Spokane for Performance Saw and Supply - must be connected. Will give them a call tomorrow. The less expensive sources have a lead time of 6-7 business days prior to shipping, and that's from the east coast, so add another week for me. There is something to be said for instant gratification.

Do you have these blades resharpened when they get dull?

Dan

[Brian Kent]

Just a dumb question Brian--were you freehanding or using a fence when the saw did the crazy curving. May not be your blade?

The log was screwed solid to a platform. No I did not use a fence because of the danger of trapping these forces. I already knew the problems with this wood. I have sawn many sycamore logs the same size with no blade deviation.

The first photo is with the Timberwolf blade on Avocado - close to the size limit of the saw. Perfectly straight cut. The second is a picture of another eucalyptus log with a previous 1/2" Timberwolf blade. Again, no problems on any other kind of wood. The eucalyptus twisted the blade so much that I just kept following the cut so I could get the blade out of the wood.

Also, before the eucalyptus, I had no problem with the Timberwolf blades. It's just that with this strange wood, the Lenox cut straight - without a fence on the first cut and then with a fence once I had two flat surfaces.

[John Bailey]

The Lenox bi-metal is all I use. I get mine from Iturra Designs. Louis Iturra will give you good advice and will make any size blade you need. He doesn't have a web presence, so you'll have to call, 904-642-2802.

[Steve Busey]

I got the DM bimetal blade after seeking advice here about a year and a half ago - and it made a tremendous difference! I had some old dry cherry pieces I was trying to cut, and even at 1.5" thick, the wood would char and smoke when I tried using my old Highland Hardware house brand blades. After putting the DM BM blade on, it cut through the cherry like butter (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?172158-BS-Blade-for-rounding-blanks&p=1775954#post1775954)!

[Pinwu Xu]

Reed --- What's a good source for these, Nobody carries the 3 tooth around here, only the higher tooth count ones for cutting metal. I'm assuming it's the 3 tpi hook you are using? Is this the Diemaster 2?

Best price I've found so far is about $36 each from Toolcenter.com for a 111" (14" bandsaw). I haven't ordered yet, but have been wanting to try

Dan

Try http://www.woodcraftbands.com/Pricing%20page.htm ?

That said, there's also the Olsen MVP blade, which is bi-metal, but thinner, might be better suited for the 14" saws?

[Pinwu Xu]

FYI. You might look at Packard Woodworks for Olson1/2 in,3tpi, hook tooth, bi-metal blades, 105 in. for under $20.00. Just my .02 for what it is worth.


Would appreciate a link if possible

[Reed Gray]

I did look up the Olson MVP blades. They are a bit less expensive then the Lenox. They are the thinner blades, .025 I think. I do prefer the thicker blades, if for no other reason, they are more stable, especially if you are cutting full height. I have never had tensioning issues on my small bandsaw (PM 14 inch cast iron frame, 3/4 hp). I had tried the thinner blades, but had more problems with them when the blank would rock even a tiny bit. The thicker blades had no problems. As I have said many times before, I used to do concrete construction, and prefer things over built rather than under built. I did not see the bimetal blades at Packard, but the ones listed were not the bimetal quality/hardness. The 133 inch by 1/2 inch by .035 by 3 tpi blade I sent to Brian was $46.09.

I do take my blades into a saw shop to have them sharpened. I had tried to sharpen them myself with some methods mentioned in a number of forums, and they were never very effective. I found a local saw shop who would do them for me. I take a bunch in at a time, 3 or 4 of my 150 inch blades, and a couple of my little 96 inch blades, and the cost is around $30 to $40. They do a much better job. I don't think I have ever had one sharpened so much that it couldn't be done again. Usually the blade fails after a lot of heavy cutting. Don't think I have ever had a weld fail, but do get fatigue cracks on the back side of the blades. Usually when there is one, there are many.

I did ask Duke (bandsaw guru at my local saw shop) about the flex back blades. He just rolled his eyes. Maybe like me, he prefers heavier for better cutting. I would guess that for 'easy' cutting of dried wood that is milled flat, they would be fine, but for a chain sawn chunk that is some what uneven, and wet. probably not as high of a performance level.

Some one needs to do a tool review of bandsaw blades.

robo hippy

[Dan Forman]

Would appreciate a link if possible

I looked for this, couldn't find a true bimetal blade in their catalog or website. The one that I think is being referred to is called "All pro super premium", and is only available in 93.5" and 105" lengths, .025" thick. Packard Woodworks: The Woodturner's Source: All Pro Premium Blades (http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=230512&Category_Code=) .

Dan

[Dan Forman]

I just got off the phone with the local (to me) version of Oregon Industrial, and got a quote for about $29 for a 111" DM2 in the .035 thickness, which he had to order from the parent company - in this case literally, as his father owns O.I. He had the .025 in stock, but recommended the stouter material based on intended use. I should be able to pick up the two blades Thursday. Woot woot!

Can't explain the difference in cost from the website, and didn't ask.

Dan

[Rick Markham]

Reed, My understanding is that they are excellent blades, but for some reason a lot of shops won't resharpen their carbide blades. Is this an urban legend, or is this the truth? Anyone?... Anyone?... Where's Van Huskey when you need him? This is a bandsaw related thread! (sorry if I misspelled your last name Van... I know you are lurking around here somewhere!:D)

I keep hoping he stops snooping and gets a lathe... But Van is the kind of guy that won't get one until he can figure out how to put a power feeder on it!!! :eek::p

[Richard Jones]

I buy mine from www.bandsawbladesdirect.com Free shipping with >$100. Nice folks.

Dan, that $29 is a DEAL, dude...............

[Reed Gray]

Their carbide tipped blades have such tiny carbide tips that one shop here said it was impossible. Not sure as to how true that is, but would think that a few swipes from a diamond hone might do well. If I was resawing a bunch of veneers, I would expect a lot of cuts with one blade. This is where going with the Laguna tipped blade, which I think uses stellite tips (same cutter material as the Woodcut coring tool, and now quite as hard as tantung) might be the better option. The tips are fairly long and deep, so several sharpenings should be possible.

robo hippy

[Reed Gray]

I went to the Lenox web site. Their two tipped blades, one uses C4 carbide, and the other used a 'carbide alloy' whatever that means. They used to use Stellite, not sure what they use now.

robo hippy

[Paul Gilbert]

I was surprised not to see any comment on Ellis blades. I have seen lots of rave reviews of these blades on other forums and here also. Based on these recommendations I just ordered a box full of blades to go on my new 18" Rikon (which hasn't yet arriced.) I also got some for my vintage PM 140, 14" saw.

Is Ellis simply a low cost supplier and not worthy of discussion when high quality is being considered??

[Clint Baxter]

I use them as well as a carbide tipped Lenox for resawing. Got mine from Bandsawbladesdirect.com as well.They have enough variety available you can pretty much find which ever blade you're after. Love the performance I get from them.

Clint

[Mike Cruz]

Reed, I use them. I just called to reorder more. I purchased two of them two years ago. Now, I'm ready for the two more I just ordered. Other blades, like the timberwolf blades are sharp out of the box, but dull quickly. Also, I like that these blades are a bit thicker, so they don't twist as easily when cutting 6+" thick material.

Here is what I just ordered:



82647D2B113505

Diemaster 138 in (11 ft 6 in) x 1/2 x .035 x 3tpi H L

[Richard Casey]

Reed, its strange how many times we can look at an online catalogue and not see all the items. I would not have looked at the DM blades as they appear to be mainly for slow speed machines for metals. I personally use the Woodmaster B BiMetal blades on my big saw, 1 1/4", 1 TPI, cutting 22 inches (550 mm) and they are unstoppable. For any of the users of the DM blades, are they ok at the higher speeds of woodcutting saws, or are they multi use,
Richard.
P.S. why are you all using Eucalypts? when you have so many choices of nice timber.

[Curt Harms]

Try http://www.woodcraftbands.com/Pricing%20page.htm ?

That said, there's also the Olsen MVP blade, which is bi-metal, but thinner, might be better suited for the 14" saws?

Spectrum Supply shows a Diemaster 2 1/2"-.025 4 t.p.i. One would cost me $53.90 delivered if I chose to order. I'd think a 4 t.p.i. blade would work, you'd just have to feed a little slower, give the sawdust time to clear.

[Dan Hintz]

Spectrum Supply shows a Diemaster 2 1/2"-.025 4 t.p.i. One would cost me $53.90 delivered if I chose to order. I'd think a 4 t.p.i. blade would work, you'd just have to feed a little slower, give the sawdust time to clear.

I think this is where I order from... I get 3 at a time at a cost of around $100.

[Mike Cruz]

Spectrum's prices are within 80 cents of Toolcenter.com . Blades for my 20" band saw are about $44 each. Shipping at Toolcenter.com is a flat $7.95 right now. Not sure what Spectrum's shipping is. Again, though, I'm getting the 1/2 x .035 x 3tpi H L, not the 1/2 x .025 x 4tpi H like you mentioned above, Curt.

[Reed Gray]

Mike,
You can have your blades resharpened. I take them to a local saw shop and they do an excellent job, and take in 6 or more at a time. Cost is around $6 to $7 or so per blade, and that includes my 150 inch blades. Not all saw shops are equal, so look around. Some sharpen their blades themselves. I tried a few times, and it just didn't do much for me, and the saw shop does it so cheaply.

Richard,
I know there are bimetal blades for cutting steel, and bimetal blades for cutting wood. The tooth configuration is different. Metal has less of a hook, and usually more tpi. I also use the Woodmaster blades on my big saw (Laguna 16HD). It does a much better job than the chain saw.

I got the eucalyptus from Brian yesterday, and promptly turned a small hollow form. It turns wonderfully. Why turn it? Well, of course, because it is there.

Paul,
I see the Ellis bandsaw company mentioned a lot over at Woodturner's Resource. I think that is the only forum I see them mentioned on. I have never tried them. They do say that bimetal blades are not good for wood, and the bimetal blade that they carry is 6 tpi, which might work for dry thinner wood, but for sure not for wet bowl blanks. Not sure, but the bimetal blade they carry might be made for cutting metal. Their prices are cheap, and I am always skeptical of the lowest costing items. A lot of people do use them.

Some magazine really needs to do a tool test on the different bandsaw blades. Kind of difficult to match cutting edge durability and feed rates.

robo hippy

[Mike Cruz]

Good to know, Reed. I'll keep my eyes open for a local sharpener...

[Dan Forman]

I should be able to pick mine up today, 1/2" .035, 3 TPI hook. Diemaster2. I have been using 2 TPI alternate set 1/2" x .033" carbon steel blades that I get from a local sharpening service for about $16 (111"). I don't know the brand of the band, but they say it's good stuff. The blades cut fast and clear out the swarf well, and don't leave a very smooth surface, which I don't suppose is surprising given the tooth count. This is the only band I've used with green wood so have nothing to compare it to. I will post my impressions of the Diemaster after I have a chance to use it.

Dan

[Jeff Nicol]

Fine Woodworking did a test of 19 different brands of 1/2" bandsaw blades, I have the issue somewhere in my extensive collection of magazines so I will look for it. I am sure you can find the info somewhere on the web. I believe they created a weighted system that pulled he wood through the blades at the same rate to assure a fair test.

I have been using the Olson blades for a long time, because they are what is handy at Woodcraft and Rockler when I am in the Twin Cities in MN while visiting my daughter and 2 of the grandbabies. I tried a timberwolf 3tpi blade and it was OK but like others I think they dull to quickly. One other blade I tried and liked very much was a Carter brand, the same Carter that makes the blade guides and hollow roller etc. It was a 5/8 3tpi and I used the dickens out of it and sharpened it 3 times before it finally broke after the metal had begun to crystalize as most will do after much use.

I sharpen my blades right on the saw with a flexible handpiece for my dremel tool with a small barrel shapped diamond bur that is as close to the gullet of the blade as possible. I raise the blade guide all the way up and start at the highest point and work my way down to where I can't grind the next tooth then pull the blade down and repeat until the blade id completed. How I do the sharpening is start in the gullet at the point of the tooth and follow it with light pressure through the gullet and up and past the point of the tooth. Make sure not to just roll right around the point as this will round them over and not work so good! I do this all the way around and making sure to follow the alternating teeth and the straight ones as you go around to maintain as much of the set as you can. I think it takes me about 10-12 minutes to do a 105" blade so well worth the effort.

Jeff

[Mike Cruz]

Spoken like a true metal worker... ;)

[Jeff Nicol]

I resemble that remark sir! One must show no fear but have the will to try new things, every day is a day for learning and my little brain is like a sponge..............It sucks up everything in sight!

Git er done Mike it will only hurt for a little while :)

Jeff

[Mike Cruz]

What's the worst that could happen, right? :o

[Curt Harms]

Spectrum's prices are within 80 cents of Toolcenter.com . Blades for my 20" band saw are about $44 each. Shipping at Toolcenter.com is a flat $7.95 right now. Not sure what Spectrum's shipping is. Again, though, I'm getting the 1/2 x .035 x 3tpi H L, not the 1/2 x .025 x 4tpi H like you mentioned above, Curt.

Then I suspect that Toolcenter wins. Shipping used to be free on DieMaster2s from Spectrum Supply, now it'd cost me $15.

[Mike Cruz]

Their CS is excellent, too, Curt...

[Dan Forman]

I picked up my blades yesterday, didn't have a chance to cut a wet blank but did rip up a mostly dry maple section that had significant cracks that would preclude turning a bowl from it. The resulting surface was better than my 1" Carbide tipped Trimaster would have left, amazingly smooth. Really curious to see how it will do with a green bowl blank, but may be a couple of days before I get to find out.

Dan

[Reed Gray]

Dan,
I am trying to figure out how you could get a smoother cut with the Lenox blade than you could with the carbide tipped Trimaster. Sounds impossible, unless bandsaw isn't set up properly, but if that was the case, then the Die Master should still leave a coarser finish cut.

Oh, and above I mentioned that the Lenox carbide tipped blades were C4 carbide, and a carbide alloy, I meant the Laguna blades.

robo hippy

[Ken Fitzgerald]

When I got my first and only bandsaw some years ago, I emailed Mark Duginske. He was kind enough to reply. He said IHO and experience, TW were sharper initially but bi-metal blades lasted as much as 6 times longer.

While I don't use Lenox, I do use bi-metal blades on my bandsaw.

[Mike Cruz]

I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at how well it will cut a wet blank.

[Del Hollingsworth]

Lenox blades are available at

www.bandsawbladesdirect.com (http://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com)

I've never tried the brand, but based on what people say here, I think I will try one.

[Mike Cruz]

Del, the Diemaster 2 in 1/2" x .035 x 3 tpi is a couple bucks more there. But they don't offer it in a H (hook) tooth, only an S (skip) tooth. Not sure if that is the difference or not...

[Dan Forman]

Dan,
I am trying to figure out how you could get a smoother cut with the Lenox blade than you could with the carbide tipped Trimaster. Sounds impossible, unless bandsaw isn't set up properly, but if that was the case, then the Die Master should still leave a coarser finish cut.

Oh, and above I mentioned that the Lenox carbide tipped blades were C4 carbide, and a carbide alloy, I meant the Laguna blades.

robo hippy

I was surprised too! The Trimaster still leaves ridges, though small ones. The Diemaster was absolutely smooth in most places, with only a few small ripples in areas where the wood moved a little due to variations in the surface supported by the table. The saw with the Trimaster is a Mini Max 16". Could be that the carbide blade could need a little more tension, but I have no way of checking it, other than the tension indicator on the saw, which just shows band width intervals rather than pounds of tension. 16" is seen as the lower limit for such blades, maybe that has something to do with it.

I Think I'll run this same piece through the MM and see what the difference is. I just know that I've never seen such a clean cut from a bandsaw. The 2 TPI blades that I was using for green wood left a really rough surface. I was expecting a small improvement, but nothing like this. Don't think I'll have a chance to cut a bowl blank until Monday.

Dan

[Mike Cruz]

Dan, I remember posting a pic of something that I had cut on my band saw that happened to be cut with a Diemaster blade. I got a few comments on how smooth the cut was...asking what I was using.

[Eric Holmquist]

I visited the Lenox factory in Mass where they make all of their bandsaw blades. Got to see the whole process to make their bi-metal blades. Also saw the process to make carbide blades. Was pretty cool.

[Clint Baxter]

Fine Woodworking did a test of 19 different brands of 1/2" bandsaw blades, I have the issue somewhere in my extensive collection of magazines so I will look for it. I am sure you can find the info somewhere on the web. I believe they created a weighted system that pulled he wood through the blades at the same rate to assure a fair test.

Jeff

Did a quick search on FineWoodworking.com and you can find the article at Fine Woodworking #169 , pp. 76 April 1, 2004. If you're a member, can view the article there as well.

Essentially, they weren't testing the blades for longevity, but mainly for speed of cutting, smoothness and they also rated barreling, (how much of a bow there was from top to bottom).
They don't appear to have tested anything other than carbon steel blades.

They didn't test for blade life because, "..because the typical home-shop woodworker uses a bandsaw only occasionally, blade life is likely to measured in years rather than in hours."

Looks like we still could use that bandsaw blade test that Reed was talking about. One that tests bi-metal blades, carbide tipped blades and those other materials used in some of the resaw blades as well.

Clint

[Jeff Nicol]

I have lots of time and lots of wood so if someone wants to send me one of every blade out there in 105" I would do it, you know take one for the team! I suppose we could ask everyone to test the blades they use on a regular basis and test them one the same types of wood for each type of cutting from veneers to wet bowl blanks. Then a list woudl be compiled of these tests and should be as close as we can get without having a single person do all the testing.

Put it out and see what happens,

Jeff

[Rick Markham]

I went to the Lenox web site. Their two tipped blades, one uses C4 carbide, and the other used a 'carbide alloy' whatever that means. They used to use Stellite, not sure what they use now.

robo hippy

Thanks Reed, that is what I suspected. I guess I will stick with the Resaw King for resawing. Next time I buy non carbide blades I will definitely be sending my business their way!

[Rick Markham]

Dan,
I am trying to figure out how you could get a smoother cut with the Lenox blade than you could with the carbide tipped Trimaster. Sounds impossible, unless bandsaw isn't set up properly, but if that was the case, then the Die Master should still leave a coarser finish cut.

Oh, and above I mentioned that the Lenox carbide tipped blades were C4 carbide, and a carbide alloy, I meant the Laguna blades.

robo hippy

Maybe it is time for me to reconsider what I am using for resawing. Anyone know of an excellent blade for resawing, that isn't the Resaw King. The allure of the Resaw King, was that you could get it resharpened at least 5 times. Those were the sterllite days... the good 'ole days :( I know Sterllite is significantly harder than the majority of carbide steels, Forrest uses C4 carbide tips on their tablesaw blades. I'm curious now as to how these compare to the old ones. Not sure I'm curious enough to throw that kind of money around however. Does anyone have any direct comparison experience?

[Willem Martins]

For smaller blades, being from 1/2" down Lenox Diemaster is the only thing I use. The best prices I have seen are at Lowes, they do not stock them, but will order your custom blade at a great price.

For a 17" Grizzly bandsaw with a 16 3/4" wheel diameter, I find blades thicker than 0.025 stress fatigue and crack while they are still sharp, meaning 3/4" is the max blade width at 0.025 and only really available from Timberwolf, unless one is willing to spend a small fortune with Laguna.

[Jim Seyfried]

I tried to cut some bowl blanks with a new Lenox #32 Wood blade (3/8") and it kept drifting in. I am using a new 20" saw with a
Carter circle cutting jig. I tried several different tensions and was cutting green Walnut. Had so much trouble I looked up the blade on the Lenox website and it is not recommended for lengths less than 15', my saw takes a 14' blade. I switched back to the 1/2" blade that came with the saw and it worked much better. I'm not sure what or if I was doing something wrong but switching blades made a big difference.

For the die master 2 bi metal blade, what size and tpi do those using it find most useful for cutting green blanks?

[Reed Gray]

Jim,
I have a 1/2 inch blade for my big saw (Laguna 16HD 150 inch blade), but have never used it. I do all my circle cutting with my smaller saw and a 1/2 inch by .035 thick by 3 tpi blade. I can see that with a smaller blade, it might want to wander. I prefer more 'heavy duty' with all my tools because I am rough on them. A 1/2 inch blade will cut a 6 inch diameter circle no problem. I have never used the circle guide things. I tried a home made one, and found that all of my bowls are different sizes, and I would spend far more time setting up than actually cutting. On my big saw, I use the Lenox 1 1/4 blade with teeth about 3/4 inch apart (can't remember the specific model). This one is used for cutting slabs with parallel sides. Then I scribe a circle with a compass. Not too hard to follow by eye. I have never had a blank mount perfectly centered, well, maybe a few times, but it was an accident. When your slab has parallel sides, it is easy to cut circles on a smaller saw. If my blank is higher than 6 inches, I nibble off the corners with my big saw. I have found it easier to slab if I take the log section and cut the ends square first, then stand the slab up, mark the thickness with some strips of plywood, then cut the slab with it standing on end. More stable that way than cutting on the side, unless I ever make a sled. Only problem with standing it on end is the inside of the saw gets big hair balls in it. Not too much trouble to pull them out as no dust collector will pull them all out.

robo hippy

[Chris Padilla]

Maybe it is time for me to reconsider what I am using for resawing. Anyone know of an excellent blade for resawing, that isn't the Resaw King.

I mentioned this already in the thread but I know it is getting long so I'll reiterate my experience.

I have a MM20 BS that takes a 14' blade. I have a Lenox Trimaster but I bent it one time...had it fixed...but it has never cut quite the same nor as cleanly but it still does all right. I'm not sure if you ever watch Woodworks with David Marks but I studied his shows and I think the blade he used on his big blue bandsaw for resawing and cutting veneers was a Lenox Diemaster2 Bimetal. It was 1/2" wide, 6 tpi, and hook style and I was very impressed how well it cut on my bandsaw. I ended up using it more than my Trimaster as it actually has a thinner kerf. I'm always on the look out for a resaw blade than can yield the most veneers from a plank of wood. It is a balance of kerf and smoothness of cut (that has to later be sanded x amount) that I seek. This blade is reasonable cost as I paid around $40 IIRC. It also has lasted quite a long time so I'm impressed all over! :)

[Brian Kent]

I made a feeding mistake and have a 1/16" twist in the blade. Before I buy a new one, can this be corrected?

This is the 1/2" Lennox Diemaster 2.

Thanks

[Mike Cruz]

No, Brian, your feeding mistake cannot be corrected. The damage is don.... Oh, wait, you're asking if the damage to the blade can now be corrected...gotcha. How am I supposed to know? :D

I THINK it can, but I'm not sure of the fix. Question: is the twist along a long stretch of the blade or is it confined to maybe 10" or so? Again, not that I know how to fix it, but maybe that will help to get you a fix...

[Brian Kent]

Hi, Mike. I just checked and there appears to be just one twist, and the blade straightens itself within about 8". I was thinking about putting a wood hand-screw vise above and below the twist and nudging it into place.

[Mike Cruz]

So, there is about an 8" section that got a twist? And the rest is straight? I'd think you (or at least someone could) straighten that out. But getting it just right might be a bit of a chore. I use the same blades and know they aren't cheap. So, I feel you pain and understand your desire to straighten it.

BTW, can I take a stab at what happened? Did you do this with the blade "stuck" in a piece of wood and, with the BS off, tried to wiggle the blade out...bending it? Or did you somehow do this with the lathe running?

BTW2, you might be interested in a sharpening technique that WORKS! I was told about it and was skeptical, but since I don't have any band saw blade sharpening service nearby, and sending them out costs abut 60% of a new blade, I thought I'd give it a whirl... You get a chainsaw sharpening stone (for a Dremmel or similar tool) and just follow the contour of the blade/teeth. Google it. It actually works. Granted, not knowing how well it would work, I was banging my head against the wall with boredom by the time I was done doing the blade on my 20" Delta. But it did a fantastic job and the blade cut almost like new. If you can't find the video on how to do it, let me know...

[Brian Kent]

I regret to say I repeated an error and tried to cut a round blank in the same direction as cutting across a log. I was trying to clean it up and it hit and rolled. It did not crimp on the blade, but the spin bent the blade. Maybe I will learn never to do that cut. :o

[Reed Gray]

You might be able to do it with 2 adjustable wrenches. Twist gently in either direction. I would check very carefully for any cracks, both with fingers and maybe with magnifying glass. I have broken a number of blades. It is, shall we say, rather loud on the big saw, and part of it gets accordioned.

Maybe I am lucky for sharpening. My 150 inch blades are about $5 each to get sharpened, and I take 5 or more blades in at a time.

robo hippy

[Mike Cruz]

You are VERY lucky, Reed. I think the one place I know I can take them to wants about $25-30 per blade for my 20"!!!

Yeah, Brian, NOW I know what you did. I've done that trying to cut 4" pvc before. I just threw the blade away. I tried (admittedly halfheartedly) to straighten it to no avail. Lesson learned.

[Gus Dundon]

I have used one blade from them for green wood. Used it for generic cutting too.

[Brian Kent]

Resurrecting this 3 year old thread. My Lennox Diemaster 2 (1/2" x .035, 3 tpi hook) dulled and I put my previous 1/2" Timberwolf (with 4 or 5 tpi) blade back on. There is no comparison. I was cutting some sycamore and the blade wandered all over the place, and left bad ridges.

So I just ordered a couple of new Diemaster 2's and look forward to smoother cutting again.

I also re-read the thread and saw that I could get these resharpened. Thanks.

[Jay Mullins]

packardwoodworks.com

[James Tibbetts]

Brian I was looking at the Diemaster blades. Were your hook or skip tooth? I can t seem to find hook in wood bi-metal?
Part number?

[Brian Kent]

Brian I was looking at the Diemaster blades. Were your hook or skip tooth? I can t seem to find hook in wood bi-metal?
Part number?
Oregon Industrial
I don't see a part number on the receipt. It is a hook tooth. But the path to find it is under Metal Cutting / Bi-metal.

[Reed Gray]

There are bimetal blades for cutting metal, and bimetal blades for cutting wood. Pretty sure mine are skip tooth. Ellis saw blades, which are popular over at WTR have only the metal ones. I think the Lennox blades can be ordered through Grainger or McMaster Carr. Some saw shops will have them, especially if they sell bandsaw blades to the portable mill people.

robo hippy

[Peter Blair]

They are the only blades I use any more. A little pricy but way worth the extra.

[David C. Roseman]

Resurrecting this 3 year old thread. My Lennox Diemaster 2 (1/2" x .035, 3 tpi hook) dulled and I put my previous 1/2" Timberwolf (with 4 or 5 tpi) blade back on. There is no comparison. I was cutting some sycamore and the blade wandered all over the place, and left bad ridges.
[snip]

Brian, wow, is that the same DM blade Reed sent you three years ago? :eek: If so, not a bad run!

[Brian Kent]

Reed, if I go to the Oregon Industrial website, there is no path through "wood cutting" to bi-metal blades. And yet the 3 tpi hook tooth Diemaster 2 have been ideal. Is there something I am missing?

[Reed Gray]

I don't know about their web site. Since I am local, I call them up, and they have me on record for the blades I use. Phone may work easier for you.

robo hippy

[Brian Kent]

Thank you, Reed. Just curious. I placed another order a few days ago, and ordered the exact same kind that have worked so well.