Question on set for a miter saw

[Matt Ranum]

Maybe a dumb question, but as someone who hasn't sharpened all that much...

I'm working on cleaning up a Craftsman Kromedge miter saw. It's 11ppi.

How much "set" should you put in a miter saw for a smooth finish?

[Jim Koepke]

The first thing to consider is it is easier to add set than it is to remove the set. It can be removed with a good metal working vise using sheets of paper as a gauge.

The next thing to consider is with how much, if any, fleam the saw was filed.

Most of the time it is my practice to use a minimal set. More can be added if needed.

Most of the woods in my shop are softwoods that sometimes expand and capture the blade. Well dried hardwoods are less likely to react in this manner.

What saw set are you using?

jtk

[Matt Ranum]

Miller Falls #214.

Most of what it will be cutting in my shop will be oak. It has a fair amount of set in it now but doesn't cut all that well and leaves some significant splintering. I have a Disston saw in my Stanley 2358 miter box that makes very smooth cuts and there is not much set on that at all. But then again that saw is fairly dull and slow cutting too.

Comparing the two makes me beg the question as to how much set they should have.

[Mike Holbrook]

I restored a Miller Falls 73C with a Disston 26" saw. I just checked and the set is hard to see sighting down the blade. Looking at individual teeth I believe I can see a little in the tips of the teeth. My saw is big and heavy enough to make it's own way without too much set I think. Someone did a great job sharpening, setting and tuning the saw I have. I hope I can do as well when it comes time to sharpen it. I would start with a light set like Jim suggests. The hand saws I have that arrived with major set are not nearly as pleasant to use, slower and do leave a rougher surface.

Some used saws I have bought arrived with rough sharpening jobs and too much set leaving metal pieces hanging off the teeth. These saws often leave rough cuts and too many splinters. Tuning the saw may help; running a bastard file or stone over the sides of the teeth a few times. The procedure removes hanging metal and helps the saw to cut a straighter line. Ron Herman's sharpening video Handsaws Tune-up, Setup & More has good information on tuning a saw.

[Mike Allen1010]

Hey Matt,

Great question -- getting the set right is one of the most important elements of tuning up a handsaw to do the intended job well.

Start by measuring the thickness of the saw plate at its thickest point -- one of the great things about vintage hand saws from the Golden era is that the plates are taper ground in two dimensions so there narrower at the top than the tooth line and narrower at the toe than the heel. The thickest point for a taper ground saw is at the heel just above the tooth line.

Of course this doesn't apply to a miter saw (or any backed saw) as these plates are typically not taper ground (except for a few rare exceptions).

A good rule of thumb for determining set is starting with the thickness of the plate at its thickest point, add 20% for kiln dried hardwoods and 25%-30% for soft woods (which can expand at the cutting edge passes by and constrict the plate).

Although the percent rule is a good place to start, it's just a guideline. With a nicely taper ground, finer pitch crosscut saws with a slick plate you can get by with less set, and with big, coarser pitch ripsaw, you may need a little more set.

The best bet is to add less set than intended and try the saw out. Too little set and the saw will bind in the kerf and not run smoothly, too much set and the saw will wander off the layout line if you're not paying attention (plus your doing more work/cutting more slowly because you really removing more wood than you need to).

With a little trial and error, you'll find the amount of set that works best with your saws and the types of woods you work with most often.

You can optimize the "setup" of your saws (not just the amount set, but the rake, fleam and dare I say gullet angles) to perform ideally for specific types of cuts in different kinds of woods -- this is the reason pre-industrial cabinetmakers typically had a "nest" of saws with a range of different configurations. The good news is -- this is a great reason to have more saws! I hope this helps

All the best, Mike

[Matt Ranum]

Appreciate the feedback guys.:)

Hopefully I can get back to it shortly, its like every problem in the world hit all at once the past few days. :rolleyes: Getting caught back up though!