How Do You Clean A Precision Square?

[Derek Arita]

I've got two Starrett precision steel squares coming and both are used. They are in good condition, although both have developed some tarnish over the years. What is the best way to clean these squares, without doing them any damage?

[Michael W. Clark]

I'll be watching this one. I have a 6" that is rusted as well. I don't know how to clean the rule without losing the original etching. I too the rule out and it is a pain to get back in. It must be a good precision fit because my other one (non-Starrett) goes together easily.

[Derek Arita]

I know that for rusted parts, there is a way using electricity and a bath, that cleans the surfaces of rust quite well. I'm just looking for remove tarnish from regular handling.

[Lester Sak]

I'll be watching this one. I have a 6" that is rusted as well. I don't know how to clean the rule without losing the original etching. I too the rule out and it is a pain to get back in. It must be a good precision fit because my other one (non-Starrett) goes together easily.

Here's a link for using electrolysis: http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html

[tyler mckee]

I have had great luck with a product called evaporust, I got a gallon at o'reileys auto for about $15. Just soak the item in it for a few hours, give it a little scrub with a fine scotchbrite pad (nothing abrasive, like the kind you use in the kitchen) and it looks like new. Doesn't eat away any material, and your not using anything abrasive to damage the square. The stuff is also reusable, just dump it back in the jug for the next rusty tool. http://www.evaporust.com/

[Myk Rian]

Bar Keepers Friend.
Cleaning aisle of the grocery store.
I use it for my CI tops also.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Tarnish isn't rust, you don't need to get severe with tarnish. Electrolysis is fine for a rusty old plane, but don't on your Starretts. Oil and a rag will get them in shape. You don't want to use something that will be too harsh of the markings. Nothing abrasive either. I'm guessing Myk's suggestion would work fine too.

[Michael Mayo]

+1 on the Evaporust! The stuff is amazing if you have a rust issue. I wouldn't want to be putting oil on a tool that is going to be in contact with wood I intend to use finish on later. If it is just tarnish some Mothers metal polish will clean and brighten it up without causing any damage.

[Ellery Becnel]

Reid Supply offers rubberized abrasive sticks. They are available in rectangular, square, or round. I have been using them for years. They work great, and will not scratch alloys like scotchbrite will. I love scotchbrite, it is a wonderful cleaning tool. But these will clean and polish. Just another suggestion to think about. They sell for about 12 to 15 dollars each, but will last forever.

Ellery Becnel

[Mike Heidrick]

+1 on the Evaporust! The stuff is amazing if you have a rust issue. I wouldn't want to be putting oil on a tool that is going to be in contact with wood I intend to use finish on later. If it is just tarnish some Mothers metal polish will clean and brighten it up without causing any damage.

Evaporust will dull gray the tool and may remove paint - FYI.

[Chris E Smith]

I would use scotchbrite wet with water or oil on the body of the square. It's less agressive when wet and you can control it's agressiveness with pressure. I know some folks may be gasping about putting water on the tool but as long as you dry it afterward it's not a problem. I wouldn't use the scotchbrite on the rule however but you have me thinking about using some Mr Clean Magic Eraser sponge. This stuff is made for household cleaning and will clean a textured surface like nothing I have ever seen. I usually wipe machine oil on my squares but don't leave any residue behind. Wax is another option.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I wouldn't want to be putting oil on a tool that is going to be in contact with wood I intend to use finish on later.

You wipe the oil off with the rag, there is very little if any residue left. There won't be any oil on your work when you are done. Some oils have high detergent content, automatic transmission fluid (Dextron) come to mind, and they can be very good at cleaning with a little effort.

[Derek Arita]

I like the idea of using the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser with a car cleaner wax. I'll have to try that on a small steel square that I have.

[scott vroom]

I'm surprised nobody mentioned that old standby: naval jelly. I've used it with good results on 100+ year old tools. Brush on, wait a few minutes, wipe off with steel wool.