How would you do this?

[Maurice Arney]

I have a small sofa table roughly 42" X 14" that has a 4 1/2 inch apron joined to the legs with mortise and tenon. The table top is attached with metal fasteners so it can be removed. What I would like to do is cut out a rectangle from the front apron and add a small drawer. How would you go about doing this? Or would you use a different approach to adding a drawer? I've thought about using a jig saw but those kinds of "free hand" cuts never look quite right. Thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions :)

[Alden Miller]

Make a template that you can follow with a flush cut bit on a router. Rough cut the opening with the jig saw, clean up the opening with the router, square off the corners with a chisel.


-Alden

[Dave Richards]

I have a couple of ideas but I'd like to see a picture of the table first.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Are you saving the cutout to use as the drawer front?

[Maurice Arney]

I have a couple of ideas but I'd like to see a picture of the table first.

I'll take a picture and post it.

[Maurice Arney]

Are you saving the cutout to use as the drawer front?

Not necessarily. If it seems like it would be to difficult then I could make a new drawer front to cover the opening. I am open to anything that will look nice.

[Dave Richards]

Looking forward to pictures. How long is the space between the legs? how much is the overhang of the top? How wide do you want the drawer to be? Inset drawer front or overlay?

[Stephen Cherry]

If you want to reuse the cut out, one option is to pattern cut the opening with a 1/4 spiral upcut bit, then to put a bead around the opening or the drawer to fill the gap.

[Jamie Buxton]

Make the drawer front overlay. That is, the drawer front is larger than the opening in the apron. (For example, look at your kitchen cabinets. Almost all kitchen cabinets have overlay drawer fronts.) One benefit is that the cutout job can be a little sloppy, because it is hidden behind the new front. Another benefit is that people will not notice that the drawer front is a little different color from the apron.

[Matt Day]

I think a guided jig saw might work and give you a small kerf for reusing the cutout.

If you're not reusing the cutout, I'd agree with the router template suggestion.

[John Sanford]

If you're not in a hurry, you could use a coping/fret saw. Minimal kerf which would allow you to reuse the piece for the drawer front. Unlike a power tool method, you're unlikely to go from "uh oh" to "oh crap" in an instant when making a mistake.

[Maurice Arney]

Here is the table (See why I need a drawer?) The top overhangs about 2 inches but it will come off to get it out of the way so that's no problem. I think an overlay drawer would definitely be easiest to do. The drawer itself will be made of 1/2" plywood with a 1/4" bottom set into a kerf.259791 I could make two small drawers instead of one wide drawer. But my main question is how to make the drawer opening(s) given the fact that I'll be working "backward" from a fully assembled state.

[Dave Richards]

It looks to me as if you need more than a drawer. ;)

An overlay drawer would be easier but in my opinion, an inset drawer front would look nicer. I would make a template out of 1/2 in. stuff to guide a router with a collar and use a very small diameter bit to cut through in multiple passes. The template would have both an inner and outer piece so the router can't go anywhere. I was doing this in my shop, I wouldn't need a template because I could do it with the Router Boss.

[Brian Kerley]

Just take the top off, and use a table saw to cut through the apron (have legs run against the fence). Make the drawer the full apron width and be done with it.

[Maurice Arney]

Just take the top off, and use a table saw to cut through the apron (have legs run against the fence). Make the drawer the full apron width and be done with it.

That is one option I've considered.

[Joe Scharle]

I've done that with my Fein tool. The first time I did it freehand; I'm using a clamped edge now!
I first make a scoring cut, then cut deeper and deeper for about 3-4 passes. Using the clamped edge keeps the blade vertical and me on track. If you do it this way, clamp or screw some scrap backing behind your cutout for zero clearance and to prevent the piece from falling free at the end.
I also use this tool to cut dovetail sockets in table legs freehand, and then pare down to fit.

[Maurice Arney]

It looks to me as if you need more than a drawer. ;)

An overlay drawer would be easier but in my opinion, an inset drawer front would look nicer. I would make a template out of 1/2 in. stuff to guide a router with a collar and use a very small diameter bit to cut through in multiple passes. The template would have both an inner and outer piece so the router can't go anywhere. I was doing this in my shop, I wouldn't need a template because I could do it with the Router Boss.

Yes I agree that an inset drawer would look nicer. I could start with that in mind and if I'm not happy with the way the cut-out looks, can always make an overlay. I do like your template idea!

[Lee Schierer]

I've done that with my Fein tool. The first time I did it freehand; I'm using a clamped edge now!
I first make a scoring cut, then cut deeper and deeper for about 3-4 passes. Using the clamped edge keeps the blade vertical and me on track. If you do it this way, clamp or screw some scrap backing behind your cutout for zero clearance and to prevent the piece from falling free at the end.
I also use this tool to cut dovetail sockets in table legs freehand, and then pare down to fit.

Now that I have a multi-tool, if I wanted to reuse the cutout as the drawer front for an inset drawer, I would use a multi-tool with a semi circular saw blade. Clamp a guide block along each cut line to guide the blade and keep the cut perpendicular and straight. Plunge cuts are easy with a multi-tool and the kerf is very small.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Now that I have a multi-tool, if I wanted to reuse the cutout as the drawer front for an inset drawer, I would use a multi-tool with a semi circular saw blade. Clamp a guide block along each cut line to guide the blade and keep the cut perpendicular and straight. Plunge cuts are easy with a multi-tool and the kerf is very small.

+1 for the multi-tool and guide blocks with masking tape over the cut line. Tom

[Ethan Melad]

Just take the top off, and use a table saw to cut through the apron (have legs run against the fence). Make the drawer the full apron width and be done with it.


i agree with brian.

[Sam Murdoch]

If you have a track saw this is a perfect application especially if you can accurately start and stop the cut as with Festool. Leaves a clean 3/32" kerf suitable for reusing the cut out as the drawer front. Minimal handwork with a sharp saw required in the corners. Looks like a very short drawer so handsaw work on the ends to but a good cope or fret saw will do that.