Grizzly Track Saw Review from TWW

[Joe Shinall]

thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/grizzly-track-saw-review/

Well, Marc did a rather good review of the Grizzly Track saw and I have to say I'm on the fence about it after this. The wobble and spring are my biggest problem. Any thoughts?

DC doesn't bother me, I would use it outside anyways and mainly to knock down plywood or rough cut stock to final cut on the table saw.

Anyone with one see the same problems?

[David Weaver]

I've never seen one, but at the time I got a tracksaw, I was too cheap to get a festool and found the makita sp6000 on sale. With an extra rail, and the festool rail extenders, it's still going to be $500 total or a little more, but it's a great saw and when all is said and done, a bill or two cheaper than the festool.

[Ole Anderson]

I am seriously looking at this tracksaw to break down sheet goods for my kitchen cabs, probably 8 sheets of Hickory ply. But it looks like a couple of tweaks would be needed. A couple layers of slicktape on the saw base ought to take care of the wobble problem, and tweaking or replacing the spring seems in order. As well as an upgrade on the blade. Probably not much can be done about the dust collection, but as Marc said, it sure beats a circ saw and a straight edge. Any recommendations on a different blade? It would be nice to have a finished edge I don't need to take to the TS to fix. With a few tweaks, that ought to be doable.

Actually I have it in my Grizz shopping cart now, $314.90 delivered with the master pack (saw, accessory kit and one 55" rail) and a second 55" rail. At least 3 weeks before I need to pull the trigger though.

[Joe Scharle]

I bought a Scheppach with 2 - 25" rails in Jan. I tested it along with Scott Smith and his T55. We found the saws to be very similar except the Festool left a more 'burnished' edge to it's cut. The fit and finish are not as fine as Festool, but the cut is just as good as my cabinet saw. I always cut over foam so I can say that the DC is surprisingly effective. Just this AM, I had to break down some cupped 15" cypress. The clamps (don't even use on flat ply) kept the track on target.
I received a 55" rail from Grizzly yesterday. Unfortunately, it got damaged in shipment so I could not test it with the Scheppach rails. Hopefully soon!
I have other Festool products but I didn't think I'd use a tracksaw that much, but I just had to buy a Scheppach, because of the price. And the 25" track pieces tempt me to use this tool far more than if I only had 55" sections. Any questions, feel free to ask.

[Ole Anderson]

I bought a Scheppach with 2 - 25" rails in Jan. I tested it along with Scott Smith and his T55. We found the saws to be very similar except the Festool left a more 'burnished' edge to it's cut. The fit and finish are not as fine as Festool, but the cut is just as good as my cabinet saw. I always cut over foam so I can say that the DC is surprisingly effective. Just this AM, I had to break down some cupped 15" cypress. The clamps (don't even use on flat ply) kept the track on target.
I received a 55" rail from Grizzly yesterday. Unfortunately, it got damaged in shipment so I could not test it with the Scheppach rails. Hopefully soon!
I have other Festool products but I didn't think I'd use a tracksaw that much, but I just had to buy a Scheppach, because of the price. And the 25" track pieces tempt me to use this tool far more than if I only had 55" sections. Any questions, feel free to ask.

Does the Scheppach have the wobble and spring issues as noted for the Griz?

[Scott Reed]

Think I will just stick with my decent circular saw and shop-built guide.

[Joe Shinall]

The wobble is definitely the biggest problem I see. I can put in a new spring and I can shave off the piece he's talking about catching with the button fully engaged. He says he checked the saw and track for flatness and they were dead flat so I'm guessing just poor fit on the track causes the wobble and thinking some slick tape to shim may work also or maybe there's a rounded edge somewhere and a flat edge on the other piece that is causing it and maybe be filed down or taped.

Using a circ saw and straight edge too right now Scott, but for $300 if I could get this to work decent I'd be all over it. I just can't see spending 500-700 bucks on the others with a long enough track to cut 8 or 9' pieces which is what I need. I mean quality is better than saving a little money but I would use it for knock down and then final on the TS so as long as it gives a straight edge, Im not sure the rest matters as much.

[Alan Bienlein]

All minor issues that can easily be fixed. This is the perfect saw for me as I rarely use a track saw as in never but for my wife it would be perfect.

[Joe Scharle]

Does the Scheppach have the wobble and spring issues as noted for the Griz?

I don't understand the 'spring' issue, so I can't comment. But, I think the 'wobble' may be the slight side to side 'at rest' motion common to the tracksaws I've used. However, mine has no 'wobble' when in use. When I push the saw down to begin cutting, it rides the rails as smoothly as the high priced brands. BTW, they are supposed to be the exact same tool; just different paint jobs!

[Zach Callum]

You get what you pay for. Would you really expect that a grizzly track saw would equal the Festool? I'm sure that its ok if you like being frustrated by your equipment, and enjoy spending time on the phone with customer service.

[david brum]

I've used mine a fair bit in the last few weeks. I have to agree with Mark Spaguolo's criticism of the saw's main three problems. It is wobbly, the spring is unnecessarily strong and the dust collection could be better.

The wobble problem is the biggest issue. As I mentioned in a previous thread, the green slider strips on the track are much closer together than other systems. That leaves a lot of saw base cantilevered out in space on both sides. It's an easy fix, though. I double taped some shims to the saw base. Now it's perfectly stable.

I haven't done anything about the spring yet. I'll eventually remove it and replace it with a lighter wire spring. As it is now, I definitely feel like the saw requires both hands. I didn't realize how much better a light spring would feel until I handled a Festool saw at Woodcraft last week.

I'm getting really good dust collection now. I made an anti splinter guard, similar in concept to the plastic thingy available for Festool saws. It serves to contain almost all of the dust coming off the front of the saw. It leaves a bit better edge on the off cut also. If anybody is interested, I'll post a photo.

I honestly don't know why people get emotional about this product. Nobody said it was as nice as more expensive saws. The idea is just to lower the threshold into the track saw world by making the cost more palatable.

[John Coloccia]

Funny, I was just looking at track saws yesterday, now that I'm a table saw free shop. I think this review must have just come up today since I don't remember seeing it.

[Joe Shinall]

The wobble problem is the biggest issue. As I mentioned in a previous thread, the green slider strips on the track are much closer together than other systems. That leaves a lot of saw base cantilevered out in space on both sides. It's an easy fix, though. I double taped some shims to the saw base. Now it's perfectly stable.



David, do you mind posting a picture or two of how you put the tape on? Also a picture of the anti splitter guard you made? Thanks in advance, I'm really about to pull the cord and buy one I think.

[Joe Shinall]

You get what you pay for. Would you really expect that a grizzly track saw would equal the Festool? I'm sure that its ok if you like being frustrated by your equipment, and enjoy spending time on the phone with customer service.


Zach, no I don't expect the same quality, but some people cannot afford a circular saw at table saw price so we gotta work with what we can get.

[Larry Whitlow]

Think I will just stick with my decent circular saw and shop-built guide.

+1. No spring or wobble problem.

[Michael Dunn]

While I've yet to see this saw or rail in person. Would it be possible to drill a small hole in the saws base and tap some threads? Perhaps 6-32 or 8-32. Then you may be able to insert some nylon set screws. This could emulate the adjustment on the TS-75.

Know what I mean Vern?

[david brum]

david, do you mind posting a picture or two of how you put the tape on? Also a picture of the anti splitter guard you made? Thanks in advance, i'm really about to pull the cord and buy one i think.


Here are a couple of photos of my saw. The base shims are different thicknesses. The inside shim, opposite side of the blade is ~1/16" veneer, double taped to the base. Then I ironed a strip of melamine edge tape on both sides. Something like teflon slick tape would be better, but I had the melamine and it works fine. It was about a 5 minute fix.

The anti splinter thing is 3/4" ply with a replaceable 1/4" mdf bottom. I cut a bunch of spare bottoms while I was making it. It is screwed into two of the attachment points for the dust shroud. The screw size is metric, I think 4mm. I used a pair of cabinet handle screws left over from an Ikea handle. I stuck some adhesive weather strip into the gap between the saw and anti splinter thing. That's what keeps all of the dust from escaping.

The first cut creates a zero clearance situation like what the much more elegant Festool device does.

[david brum]

Here are two more photos for clarity.

[Brian Kincaid]

David, that's nice work. Looks like you found a solution to any problems you were having!
-Brian

[david brum]

David, that's nice work. Looks like you found a solution to any problems you were having!
-Brian

....except for the spring problem. I'll eventually get to that, though. If I'm lucky, I'll find something at Home Depot or similar.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I got a great deal on a Dewalt track saw. Had great reviews, and it works great for me. Price is pretty good reconditioned.

http://www.reconditionedtools.com/factory-reconditioned-dewalt-dws520kr-6-1-2-in-corded-tracksaw/dewrdws520kr,default,pd.html?ref=nextagDWS520KR&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=440&zmap=DWS520KR

[Larry Frank]

First, I have to admit that I have a Festool track saw and it is great but it is expensive. If I could not afford one, I would have to think very hard about the Grizzly and the issues. I would be concerned using it to cut expensive hickory plywood and getting clean cuts straight cuts. Hopefully, Grizzly will address these problems and get them corrected.

I would consider buying a very good circular saw and making a straight edge. I did this for years and with a good blade could get very good cuts.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I would be concerned using it to cut expensive hickory plywood and getting clean cuts straight cuts.

Yeah, I just cut some mahogany plywood with my Dewalt. I was impressed how well it did (quality of cut).

[Mike Cutler]

Know what I mean Vern?


I haven't heard that in years. I loved that guy.

David
Nice work on fine tuning your saw.
Personally, even though I own a TS 75, and a set of EZ rails, and will probably never buy one of these Griz' models, I think Griz' has a winner here. Breaking down sheetgoods when you're alone sucks, having a saw like this will save a lot of lower backs. At 6'3", with monkey arms, even I have trouble horsing around sheet goods. For smaller folks, it has to really suck.
I think everyone has used the straight edge, and circular saw method, but the guided rail systems make everything much easier and faster, probably safer too.

[Stan Krupowies]

I don't know, maybe it's just me, but I firmly believe that a new tool should "just work" right out of the box. It shouldn't need me to jury-rig this or Rube Goldberg that to make it a serviceable machine. I realize that in order to get tools that "just work" it costs more, but I would rather pay the extra to get good quality than save a few bucks and then have to rework the machine to make it usable.

[Ole Anderson]

I don't know, maybe it's just me, but I firmly believe that a new tool should "just work" right out of the box. It shouldn't need me to jury-rig this or Rube Goldberg that to make it a serviceable machine. I realize that in order to get tools that "just work" it costs more, but I would rather pay the extra to get good quality than save a few bucks and then have to rework the machine to make it usable.

It is always a plus when it works 100% right out of the box, certainly can't argue with that. But some of us are hardwired to tinker. So if I end up with a machine that cuts as well as something that costs twice as much for a half hour of tinkering, that means I have money left over for another machine or a stash of wood, and that is always a good thing.

[Alan Bienlein]

It is always a plus when it works 100% right out of the box, certainly can't argue with that. But some of us are hardwired to tinker. So if I end up with a machine that cuts as well as something that costs twice as much for a half hour of tinkering, that means I have money left over for another machine or a stash of wood, and that is always a good thing.

+1!!!!!

Also for the limited use one might get if I owned one wouldn't justify the higher cost of the other brands.

[tyler mckee]

Here are two more photos for clarity.
Are you using the original blade or did you put on a better blade? I'm curious how much better the cut quality would bee with a the wobble issue fixed and a quality blade.

[George Bokros]

Here is a link to a post / review on woodworkingtalk.com regarding the wobble of the saw on the track. It seems they have a fix in the accessory kit. Seems to me though you should not have to buy the accessory kit to fix a problem, it should be included in the basic saw.

George

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/grizzly-t10687-track-saw-50121/

[John Coloccia]

"Anti-tilt bar"? :rolleyes:

I'm just curious: why does it wobble, anyway? It seems like they all wobble? Is something not flat? Is it teetering on the guide? Just wondering what the problem is exactly.

[david brum]

I'm just curious: why does it wobble, anyway? It seems like they all wobble? Is something not flat? Is it teetering on the guide? Just wondering what the problem is exactly.

Yeah John, it teeters on the track. For unknown reasons, the manufacturer put the glide strips on the track very close to each other. It's pretty easy to get some side wobble. It isn't much, but enough to put the cut out of square if it's a finished edge.

Here is a photo of the Festool, Makita and Dewalt tracks. Then another of the Grizzly. Notice how much closer the Grizzly glide strips are. The Festool and Makita tracks look like they support the saw better. To be honest, I haven't used any of the other saw to know if they wobble either. I handled a Festool at Woodcraft the other day. It had quite a bit of side teeter on the track, but it was a demo, so probably beat to heck. You normally don't hear about tracksaw owners complaining about wobble, so I assume it isn't an issue.

It would work just as well to add an outboard strip onto the Grizzly track. It's easier to put onto the saw base, though.

[Mikail Khan]

If grizz does not have the strips available Dewalt glide strips are available from amazon for $6 plus shipping. I have the dewalt. Saw is stable on the track.

[Sam Murdoch]

To Scott and Larry - A good track saw will change the way you work!!! If you make a living as a woodworker there is no comparison to working with a good track saw and using a shop built guide with a circular saw. Don't know about the Griz - that's not the one I use.

[Wade Lippman]

Now that the saw is in the public domain, does anyone make a imitation MFT? I really want one, but the cost is a bit hard to justify.

[Jim Koehl]

I picked up the Sheppach version of the saw on ebay for $100, and then I bought tracks from Grizzly because actual Sheppach accessories seem to be non-existent in the US. I had high hopes, but unfortunately I haven't been able to make a true cut with the saw yet.

I had seen the wood whisperer review so I was well aware of the potential wobble. I try to keep pressure to the right when cutting, but the cuts still are not perpendicular to the face. Even if this worked, having to constantly apply pressure to the right, means cuts could vary as the pressure varies. I also ordered the accessory kit, which includes a plastic clamp that is billed as an anti-tip device, but it also seems to eliminate most of the wobble. Unfortunately, even without wobble, the cuts are about 2.5 degrees out of square. Since the cut is out at the bottom, I can use the saw's bevel to compensate and achieve 90 degree cuts, but I am still very concerned about the cut being consistent along the entire length. Also, since the bevel stops at 45 degrees, using up 2.5 degrees to get square means I will never be able to make a 45 degree cut with the saw.

I checked the baseplate and track for square. The baseplate seems flat from right to left, but there is a noticeable wobble from front-left to right rear when I put it down on a flat surface. The track is even more suspect. Eyeballing it, the track appears to bowed with the edges of the track curving down. It is difficult to use a straight edge on the track because of the raised guide tracks and the various non-stick and friction strips. However, I tried placing a straight edge across the two raised tracks, which are the same height, and then measuring down to the track. The center track is approximately 5.5mm high, but when I measure at the right edge of the track, the difference is about 7.5mm. This is a difference of 2mm in just a few inches. Oddly, it seems that the track's bow would make the cut angle acute rather than obtuse. I guess the anti-tip bracket is pulling the saw toward the left side of the track, and causing the the blade to angle out.

[david brum]

Jim, if you read backward a few postings in this thread, you'll see my solution to the base wobble problem. It worked great for me, and I'm getting consistent 90 degree cuts. Of course, you shouldn't have to shim the base on a new saw, but that's a whole different issue.

[David Weaver]

Side to side adjustment is made on the makita (and probably on the festool) with an adjustment knob that allows you to choose how tightly you want the saw to ride on the track. If you want no lateral movement at all, it's pretty easy to set the saw that way.

And in terms of how true the cut is, with one of the shorter lengths of track (I don't have a single long piece), I can cut a four foot stick that is straight to a four foot starrett edge.

I don't know anything about the dewalt, but I'd call the makita a good way to save a few hundred bucks on the festool, and it works fine for me on a 20 amp circuit coming through a fein turbo II.

[Art Mann]

Think I will just stick with my decent circular saw and shop-built guide.

I used that method for 30 years. Recently, I got the Makita track saw. No clamping of the guide required and the cut looks like it came off my 80 tooth trim saw blade. My only regret is that I waited so long getting a track saw after they became available. I watched Mark's review of the Grizzly system and decided to go for the extra $100 to get a system without the problems he pointed out but I would buy the Grizzly before going back to a circular saw and home made guide. I would also pay the price for the Festool brand if it were all that was available. In my opinion, a track saw is that good compared to a home made saw guide if you cut up a lot of sheet goods.

[Fred Langley]

Here are a couple of photos of my saw. The base shims are different thicknesses. The inside shim, opposite side of the blade is ~1/16" veneer, double taped to the base. Then I ironed a strip of melamine edge tape on both sides. Something like teflon slick tape would be better, but I had the melamine and it works fine. It was about a 5 minute fix.

The anti splinter thing is 3/4" ply with a replaceable 1/4" mdf bottom. I cut a bunch of spare bottoms while I was making it. It is screwed into two of the attachment points for the dust shroud. The screw size is metric, I think 4mm. I used a pair of cabinet handle screws left over from an Ikea handle. I stuck some adhesive weather strip into the gap between the saw and anti splinter thing. That's what keeps all of the dust from escaping.

The first cut creates a zero clearance situation like what the much more elegant Festool device does.




Hey David,

Thanks for posting some solutions. I was wondering if you can show a photo of how you did weather strip?

Thanks, Fred

[Art Mann]

You get what you pay for. Would you really expect that a grizzly track saw would equal the Festool? I'm sure that its ok if you like being frustrated by your equipment, and enjoy spending time on the phone with customer service.

While a Grizzly track saw may not equal the preformance of a Festool track saw, I am certain that it will outperform a circular saw and home made guide. I know because I did it that way for 30 years before I bought a Makita track saw. If what you say is true, then woodworking would be a hobby confined to the very rich or the very frustrated. I am neither.

[Ole Anderson]

Somebody drank of the green Kool-Aid... (Festool green, not Grizz green)

[Larry Prem]

My Grizzly track saw did not show any of the wobble Mark shows in his video review. I am not sure if I got lucky and got a good saw, or Mark got unlucky and got a bad one.
The writeup of my review is here.

http://www.hingmy.com/content.php?207-The-Grizzly-T10687-Track-Saw-Review

[david brum]

Thanks for posting some solutions. I was wondering if you can show a photo of how you did weather strip?

Here are a couple of photos which show how I made the anti splinter guard. I found that some sawdust still shot out of the little gap in the inside corner between the guard and saw body. I used some self stick foam weather strip to fill the gap. It's worked great so far.

BTW, I've had my Grizzly saw since winter and I like it very much. I just used it to break down 8 or 10 sheets of hardwood ply to build cabinets. The cuts were clean and nicely polished, definitely better than I was getting with my circular saw/straight edge combo. Much cleaner work area, too. I love that I don't have to worry about cutting off of my line.

One thing that's really helped in breaking down plywood is getting a good connection between two tracks to make a long one. I got one Grizzly connector with my accessory kit but discovered that a single connector leaves an uneven transition between the two tracks, enough to stop the saw. I then found a Dewalt connector on the closeout table at a local Woodcraft. It turns out to fit perfectly ( the beveled edge points toward the track) and the combination of two connectors makes a very flat transition that the saw rides right over.

[Fred Langley]

David,

Have you thought about creating parallel guides?

I don't believe the ones on the market will fit because the track is different.

Fred

[david brum]

David,

Have you thought about creating parallel guides?

I don't believe the ones on the market will fit because the track is different.

Fred

Fred, I'm not entirely sure what you're referring to. Do you mean a guide for connecting the tracks?

[Fred Langley]

Hey David,

Something like Cary Falk has posted "DeWalt Track Saw Parallel Guide Rails". Wondering if there is an easier way to set up for a Grizzly Track.

Fred

[Fred Langley]

Senecawoodworking.com (checkout their site) makes nice parallel guides but say they won't fit Grizzly

[Floyd Mah]

I bought the Scheppach saw and played around with the defects mentioned by others.

The wobble is caused by the two finished glide strips being placed too far to the blade side. The saw is unsupported on the outboard side, despite the width of the track. However, if you attach the black plastic accessory, used to prevent the saw from tipping over when doing bevel cuts, you will notice that it has two positions. The inward position locks the lip of the accessory block to the track, preventing tipping. If you slide the accessory outward and lock it down, but without removing it, it glides on the track, giving you another rest point for the saw so that the saw no longer wobbles. This is one solution to the wobble. Another solution is to fasten (I used carpet tape) two plastic shims to the saw bottom so that it rides on the outboard part of the track. Pieces from a broken up CD disk were the perfect height as you separate the halves (like an Oreo). My last modification is that the rectangular hole on the saw base which rides over the raised part of the track, will take a plastic insert, of your own design, that can ride on the track guide. Using the two shims (second technique) does create a base that is slightly high on one side (a tilt), so it isn't quite as good a solution, unless you dedicate the saw to use only on the track.

I also addressed the splinter guard using a different approach. I decided that the Festool part was a pretty excellent design and decided to graft my Scheppach saw onto their splinter guard. I even bought their knob to complete the look. I basically machined the blade cover to accept two guide rails for the Festool part and a slot for the knob. What's not visible is also a shim on the inside of the bolt slot so that clamping the splinter guard didn't tilt it. By the way, used Festool splinter guards can be repaired with ABS cement and reused.

268649268650

[david brum]

Hey David,

Something like Cary Falk has posted "DeWalt Track Saw Parallel Guide Rails". Wondering if there is an easier way to set up for a Grizzly Track.

Fred

Oh, I like that idea. That definitely goes on the Fall short list of projects.

[david brum]

I also addressed the splinter guard using a different approach. I decided that the Festool part was a pretty excellent design and decided to graft my Scheppach saw onto their splinter guard. I even bought their knob to complete the look. I basically machined the blade cover to accept two guide rails for the Festool part and a slot for the knob. What's not visible is also a shim on the inside of the bolt slot so that clamping the splinter guard didn't tilt it. By the way, used Festool splinter guards can be repaired with ABS cement and reused.

That's really clean. Much prettier. I thought about using the Festool part but felt shy about modifying the blade guard. How does your mod do with dust collection?

[Floyd Mah]

I talked to the Festool rep at a Rockler demo. He said that the newer models improved their dust collection by improving the ducting of the airflow inside the housing by enlarging some of the flanges. The Scheppach/Grizzly seemed to have some raised ribs for that purpose. Otherwise, the Festool splinter guard had a wing (perpendicular to the sawing direction) that catches some of the saw dust that would otherwise be ejected to the front. I had to trim that with a razor to fit it inside the housing (otherwise I would need to remove the front cover). So, the dust collection is slightly better than the non-modified saw because of the design of the Festool part.

I have to confess that I made a few mistakes that I fixed with Bondo. Just the usual holes in the wrong place that you make when fleshing out an idea. Nothing that a few squirts of aluminum colored paint couldn't hide.

[Fred Langley]

Wow....great work! Any thoughts on parallel guides?

[Frank Martin]

I have never seen this Grizzly saw in person. I did have only one Grizzly tool (G0634 jointer / planer combo). I was very happy the day I sold it. I own quite a few Festool tools. I do get the price attraction of this Grizzly track saw but I suggest if you can't afford a Festool get a Makita or Dewalt at least those companies have decent tools even if they are not as good as Festool.

I am not a Festool fanboy by any means. There are some tools that I would not buy given alternatives at very good quality level at about half the price. I have sold several Festool tools after not using them much and they do have excellent resale value.

[Fred Langley]

Hey David,


That's what I was hoping to hear from you! I also hope you're an early Fall guy, because I'm gonna follow your lead with the design.


FYI...I put a shim under the saw edge, and also put a splinter guard on the side...people would have to do a double take, then ask if I stole your saw..looks identical. Thanks so much for your help!


Fred

[Ole Anderson]

Mine rocked partially because the baseplate was not flat. With a little coaxing from my dead blow, things are now better. Until I dropped it on the corner and had to tweak it again. Sit yours on a CI TS table to check flatness.

[Floyd Mah]

Instead of $250+ parallel guides, there is a video on youtube of a simple scrap wood parallel guide. It can be made to adapt any brand track saw. Very elegant design. Search with those words on a popular video site and search engine for details.

[Fred Langley]

Thanks Floyd

[glenn bradley]

mainly to knock down plywood or rough cut stock to final cut on the table saw.

JMHO but, I would not spend several hundred dollars to perform this task. A track saw is for handheld precision sawing and comes with an appropriate price tag. For just breaking down sheet goods I use a "good" circ-saw and a shop made guide. By "good" circ-saw, I mean one that can be adjusted or modified to cut parallel to the shoe and one that is of a quality to spin a blade without a runout problem. I've made several shop made versions of guides. They take just a short time to make and serve me for years.

This version stores in the lumber rack and the t-track on the underside allows various lengths of material to be handled without having to dodge clamps on the topside. The only downside is that if you need one for really long cuts, it doesn't breakdown into sections for easy storage:). Also, I find a quality jigsaw to be faster and easier for breakdown of material in many cases, I use the 1-1/2" foam insulation board from the BORG as a cutting mat. Inexpensive and although full of cuts, I am still using some pieces I bought at least 6 years ago. Pretty good return on the $10 or $15 I paid.

268692268693268694268695268696268697

[Mark W Pugh]

........ For just breaking down sheet goods I use a "good" circ-saw and a shop made guide. By "good" circ-saw, I mean one that can be adjusted or modified to cut parallel to the shoe and one that is of a quality to spin a blade without a runout problem. I've made several shop made versions of guides. They take just a short time to make and serve me for years.



Glenn,

Could you recommend a "GOOD" circ-saw??? My borg, plastic bottom one is great for construction cuts, but it is difficult to keep it at square. Thanks!

[glenn bradley]

Glenn,

Could you recommend a "GOOD" circ-saw??? My borg, plastic bottom one is great for construction cuts, but it is difficult to keep it at square. Thanks!

I use an old Porter Cable 324 (or maybe its the 325, the blade is on the left) with the built in blade change doo-hickey. I believe this saw is discontinued and even if it weren't, PC just ain't what it used to be. I have been keeping my eye out as someday this thing may need to be replaced. So far, no dice. I wish I could just point you to a brand and model ;-(

There's got to be one out there that won't break the bank. I just haven't found it yet. I'd be looking for a saw with a cast, ribbed, heavy base plate like the older DeWalt, Hilti and similar format saws. I will probably just build my own add-on base of lexan which seems to be the cure for the lack of adjustment mechanisms at this point long the timeline. anyone else know if a current saw offering adjust-ability for the baseplate?

[Chris Parks]

You get what you pay for. Would you really expect that a grizzly track saw would equal the Festool? I'm sure that its ok if you like being frustrated by your equipment, and enjoy spending time on the phone with customer service.

I could say the same thing about the Festool. If you want the original and best track saw buy a Mafelle from which the Festool was copied. Not everyone has the need for such an expensive saw as the Festool or use it often enough to justify such a purchase even if they can afford it.

[Chris Parks]

To Scott and Larry - A good track saw will change the way you work!!! If you make a living as a woodworker there is no comparison to working with a good track saw and using a shop built guide with a circular saw. Don't know about the Griz - that's not the one I use.

I have used both extensively but not professionely and notice no difference. If you add in the Festool dust extraction there is no comparison of course. Just to cut a bit off a sheet I have yet to work out what one can do that the other can't.