paper cutting suggestions please

[David Rust]

Hi All!

I am processing a large quantity of cut paper. When I cut light colored paper I am plagued with "laser splash" on the back side of the paper cut outs, unfortunately the customer is sensitive to this and I end up tossing a lot of pieces. I am using the Epilog aluminum hex table. I have tried wiping the table clean of "soot" between cuts but it does not seem to solve the problem...

Is there a different cutting table that reduces the "laser splash back"??

Any other ideas?

I was thinking making a bed of razor blades. I think the razor edges should reduce the splash.

Before I go and make a bed of 100 razors I thought I would run it by the forum.

I am cutting 12" x 12" paper into various sizes ranging from 1/4" shapes up to 10" shapes.

I'm not over powering, I have that to a minimum.

Thanks

[Joe Hillmann]

I would suggest building a jig that only supports the paper around the edges so the back side of the paper is completely off the cutting table/grid and allows air flow underneath. Or building a pin table and setting it up so the laser doesn't pass over any of the pins.

[Dee Gallo]

Have you tried a sacrificial piece of cheap paper or cardboard underneath? As long as you get through the workpiece, it won't matter what happens to the bottom piece.

[Mike Lassiter]

Thinking "out loud" here. I think you need the paper laying flat and something under it to keep the reflection of the laser on the honeycomb from hitting the back side of the paper marking it. Wondering if you laid some type of cotton material on your cutting table that would be of course enough weave that air would still draw through it and pull the paper down flat yet be a buffer from the reflected laser hitting the back side. There is a cross stitch material that is like a screen type material, with I think 14 or 18 threads per inch which might help. I have watched the laser reflection on my laser while cutting acrylic and see the flash when the beam crosses the metal in the honeycomb.
Don't know if this would work, but would be much easier and faster to try than getting paper to lay flat on razor blades on edge or pins. I feel the paper would droop between these especially if you have a good exhaust fan sucking the paper down while running the laser.

[Jiten Patel]

David, do you have a picture of the marks? Is it smoke damage or tick marks from the honeycomb?

To reduce tick marks, do as Joe said, raise the paper off the best so it is cutting in air, or use a pin table. You can successfully cut on a honeycomb but the trick is speed. You need to cut as quickly as possible with the perfect power so that the laser only just makes it through the paper/card.

What colour stock are you using? Some stocks are just prone to marks, ticks and smoke damage due to their composition.

Hope this helps. Give me a shout if you need any more help as we cut paper/card day-in, day-out, all day, everyday!

[Dan Hintz]

David,

Enlarge the pattern you're cutting by 1/4" around every line. Cut that design into two pieces of acrylic. Lay the paper between the two pieces of acrylic and cut... no more "splash".

[Michael Hunter]

Ditto Dan's suggestion.

That is much the way that I do paper, but I also add "legs" to the jig to lift it about 1" above the table - this lets the exhaust suck any smoke underneath away.

[Mike Null]

Just buy an acrylic fluorescent light grid and place it on a couple of equal sized wooden risers. Place your paper on that and be sure your settings are not over powering the material.

Be sure it's acrylic.

[Joe Hillmann]

Just buy an acrylic fluorescent light grid and place it on a couple of equal sized wooden risers. Place your paper on that and be sure your settings are not over powering the material.

Be sure it's acrylic.


This won't get rid of the marks completely. It is what I use because I don't have a honeycomb table. It is better than cutting directly on the solid table but I doubt it is better than using a honeycomb table.

[Mike Null]

Joe

I find it to be much better than a honeycomb or metal grid. There is no bounceback with acrylic but you have to be sure the smoke and residue are being sucked out or you will get a messy looking back side.

[Joe Hillmann]

Joe

I find it to be much better than a honeycomb or metal grid. There is no bounceback with acrylic but you have to be sure the smoke and residue are being sucked out or you will get a messy looking back side.

Mike, I have never used a metal honeycomb table but I just assumed since they are narrower and have less contact area then the acrylic light covers that they would work better. But either way with the light covers the smoke on the back won't be %100 gone.

[Mike Null]

Joe

Because it doesn't work for you doesn't mean it doesn't work.

The honeycomb is more of a problem because smoke evacuation is more difficult with a cell of approximately 1/4" than a cell that is 1/2" square. Both must be elevated 3/4"+ above the table. I will post pictures in the next few days but for the time being I have my machine otherwise occupied.

BTW, i know Cermark will work on aluminum--but not for me, regardless of all my various attempts so not all things work for everybody.

[David Rust]

Thank you.. a lot of great ideas.. I like Dan's idea if I was cutting many pieces of a single shape. I have about 100 different designs, shapes, big and small (and more on the way) that I am cutting 10-12 of each...

Dee, tried putting a piece of paper underneath however the smoke is captured between the two layers and discolors as Jiten also knows well!

Jiten, I am using standard 65# card stock in various colors, of course it isn't noticeable on the darker colors. The whites, yellows, and tans really get marked up.

I am at about 16% on power and maxed out the speed... I can see when the laser hits the honey comb edge, there is a little flare-up but not all the time. The honey comb is in good shape, no dings. If I go less on the power I find that the shapes don't fall out of the paper...

I usually pack the shapes tightly onto the 12"x12" sheet so I can get the most out of it... as the cutting progresses the paper becomes more flimsy, so I need to be careful with the pin table, I don't want the paper to fall off before it is done.

What's the saying? "Necessity is the Mother of Invention"?

I'll let you know what I come up with when I get it!

[Tony Lenkic]

I would try making a holding jig with plywood base and 3 pieces of 1" x 1" or 1" x 2" wood risers (left/right/bottom) to raise paper 1 - 2". Using thumb tacks pushed into wood through the paper to hold it in place. It should stay pretty leveled for cutting #65 stock and it will be easy to adjust for multiple setups.

[Mary Geitz]

I do a ton of work with paper and have this down to a science with my Epilog Helix 45w. I've found that if you put a scrap piece of paper under the one you'll use, the exhaust sucks down the scrap and the top one can get blown around by the air assist. Depending on the thickness of the paper, I can go up to 40 power without a problem. The speed is always 100%. What makes the most difference in my experience, is the frequency setting. Mine is set anywhere between 900-1100, depending on the thickness. If I'm using any type of coated paper, I can wipe off the residue with a slightly damp paper towel.

[Jiten Patel]

Mary,

I wouldn't use a damp cloth on paper/card to wipe off soot or residue....what does your white stock look like after you have done that? Use a medium to hard bristle art brush to brush it away....easier, cleaner and will not damage the cardstock.

[David Rust]

Hi Mary,
I didn't quite understand your comment, do you use the piece of scrap underneath or is this a bad idea because the top piece moves around? I am also using a helix running 100 speed, 16 power, and 800 freq. I'll try bumping up the freq and see if there is a difference.
I am cutting 65# matte finished paper, the residue doesn't wipe off very easily.
thanks for you comments!

[Mary Geitz]

Jit - I should clarify. I mostly work with coated paper and wiping it off is very effective. If I'm working with plain white cardstock, I will use frisket or or even post-it's. BTW, I LOVE your work. It is absolutely amazing.
David - if I need to cover the back of the paper so it doesn't get burn marks or residue, I use a low-tack mask to make it as if it's one piece of paper. If you have two loose papers one on top of the other, the top paper will not be sucked down to your table and will blow around. Does that explain it better?

[Jiten Patel]

Thanks Mary, much appreciated. Would love to see what you do with paper/card? Any pics or a website?

[Mike Null]

This morning I happen to have a job cutting 95 pound card stock. My apologies for the cell phone pictures but hopefully they'll show enough to let you see there is no smoke or residue on the front or back of this stock. I did no cleaning and just laid the stock directly on the acrylic grid and cut away.

The left most pic is the backside of the card; next is the front of the same crd; next is just cut and not removed from the engraver; next is the back of that piece and last is the back of another piece.

I think the most important aspect of clean cuts is adequate elevation of the grid above the table to provide for smoke evacuation. This grid is about one and a quarter inches above the table.

[Jiten Patel]

Mike....my question to you is what is that and whats it for?

I think the residue really depends on the type of stock you are using. We use over 180 different types and each one reacts differently. Some cut clean as, while others have serious black soot come off them....we put this down to the make up of each stock....dye used etc.

[Mike Null]

Jit

There are a dozen sheets full of various shapes and text which my client, an ad agency, will use to construct a story board for one of their clients. It seems a bit silly to me but it's their business. It will actually be done in a 3d mode but I can't really offer a better description than that. There are 7 colors in all.