Need new Router for table

[Matthew Curtis]

I recently burnt my PC router up that was in my table. What are some decent affordable replacement for me? I am just a hobbyist woodworker. I do use my router table a good amout when I am working in the shop.

[Dale Coons]

PC routers are pretty good. You didn't say what you burned up--if a 690 (1.75hp), you could go to a 892(2.25hp) or 7519 (3.25hp), but the 7519 or the milwaukee/triton other brand equivalents have a different hole mount than the 690/892's.

[Matthew Curtis]

It was an 890. Are the 890 and 892 motors interchangeable with the bases?

[David L Morse]

Hold old is that 890?

http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2006/CPSC-Porter-Cable-Announce-Recall-to-Repair-Routers/

Note that the failure is motor winding insulation.

[Curt Harms]

I recently burnt my PC router up that was in my table. What are some decent affordable replacement for me? I am just a hobbyist woodworker. I do use my router table a good amout when I am working in the shop.

IMO this fellow creeker is offering a sweet deal for a table router. I have its predecessor, FT2000E and it works very well in a table. I had to add a RouterRaizer to get above-the-table height adjustment.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?201045-Freud-3000-Plunge-Router-and-Incra-Plate

Andrew Kertesz (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/member.php?61217-Andrew-Kertesz)
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/statusicon/user-offline.png Contributor


Join DateFeb 2010LocationToledo, OHPosts414

Freud 3000 Plunge Router and Incra Plate


I am selling my Freud FT3000-VCE 3.25 hp. router (above table adjustments) and Incra branded plate with the magnetic rings. I found a good deal on a lift and PC 7518 motor and don't really need these. I believe the plate is actually made by Jessem but I may be wrong. Retail on these items the lowest I could find is just under $400.00 for both. How does $200.00 plus shipping and insurance (at your discretion) CONUS only sound? Local pick-up also available. I can get pictures if you absolutely need them. Thanks for looking.

[Phillip Gregory]

I believe that the 89x series units all use the same motor- or at least the newer ones do. However the prices I have seen on the 890 motor unit aren't that much less than the cost of a complete router, so you might be better off in finding a new 89x router with a base. That would work out well as you could leave your existing fixed base mounted in the router table and then just slide the motor out and put it in another fixed base for non-router-table work.

[Matthew Curtis]

that is what i was thinking


I believe that the 89x series units all use the same motor- or at least the newer ones do. However the prices I have seen on the 890 motor unit aren't that much less than the cost of a complete router, so you might be better off in finding a new 89x router with a base. That would work out well as you could leave your existing fixed base mounted in the router table and then just slide the motor out and put it in another fixed base for non-router-table work.

[Matthew Curtis]

What ever happened to just getting advice without someone trying to sell something? There is a spot for selling items here. Could we keep that there. If I choose to look at used itemes I will.

[Don Jarvie]

If you use it a lot go buy the best one. I have the 7518 and no issues plus plenty of power.

[Matthew Curtis]

do you have that in a lift?


If you use it a lot go buy the best one. I have the 7518 and no issues plus plenty of power.

[Phillip Gregory]

The recent 69x/89x units have a little nut on the underside of the depth adjust knob so that you can use an included, removable knob on a shaft to adjust the height when the router is mounted in a table without a lift. Pretty nifty.

[Don Jarvie]

Yes, I have a Smartlift and it fits with no additional collars.

[Darius Ferlas]

Decent and affordable:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-14-amp-2.5-hp-fixed-plunge-base-router/p-00927680000P?prdNo=1#ReviewsSection

The plunge base has a built in o/t height adjustment that actually works.
Enough power to for a 3 1/2" raised panel bit with an undercutter to go through maple in a single pass.

[Denny Rice]

I really think I would try to take the top of the PC's motor and have a look inside. Yea it could be junk, but it could be saved for a little money too without you having to drop a couple hundred on a new router.

[Matthew Curtis]

I really would not know as to what to look for when I do take it apart.

[Denny Rice]

Only one way to find out!:D

[Matthew Curtis]

so what do i look at when i get it opened? It is a big electric motor, something I do not know anything about.

[Denny Rice]

Matt,
You really never said "what happened" to the router. You said it burnt your PC router up. Does that mean you actually seen smoke roll out of the router or were you just using it and it quit working? Or did you go to use it and it just would not work? If it were me and just take it for whats it worth, when something like this happens to my tools I always start with the easy stuff first:

1. Check the brushes in the router. There should be 2 slots, one on each side of router (a flat blade scredriver will fit) where you can remove the brushes without removing the top. Check the condion of the brushes and springs if they are worn they are a cheap fix.
2. Check the off-on switch this can be done pretty easy with the router unplugged and a good multi-meter. If the meter shows the switch "open" at the on AND off position its no good. Replace it. (you will have to remove top to do this)
3. I'm not sure what your model looks like on the inside but you should be able to get to the wires for the windings: with your multimeter set to ohms ckeck the continuity of the windings if it shows resistance its probably good, if it shows an "open" OR infinity its probably junk and at this point I would say the price of the part is not worth the price of a new router, it would be time to buy a new router.
4. And I know this sounds silly, but check the power cord why you are at it. This can also be done with an ohm meter to check for an open. Its very possible if it just wont come on your not getting power to the motor.

Hope this helps a little, there are also diagrams on ereplacements website and last time I looked there were a couple short videos.

[Matthew Curtis]

I was using the router and it started smoking a smelling like electrical death. it go really hot. I must have been pushing it to hard. My bad. it tripped the breaker and now will not start. It thinks about it before it trips the breaker again in just a fraction of a second. It spins freely.


Matt,
You really never said "what happened" to the router. You said it burnt your PC router up. Does that mean you actually seen smoke roll out of the router or were you just using it and it quit working? Or did you go to use it and it just would not work? If it were me and just take it for whats it worth, when something like this happens to my tools I always start with the easy stuff first:

1. Check the brushes in the router. There should be 2 slots, one on each side of router (a flat blade scredriver will fit) where you can remove the brushes without removing the top. Check the condion of the brushes and springs if they are worn they are a cheap fix.
2. Check the off-on switch this can be done pretty easy with the router unplugged and a good multi-meter. If the meter shows the switch "open" at the on AND off position its no good. Replace it. (you will have to remove top to do this)
3. I'm not sure what your model looks like on the inside but you should be able to get to the wires for the windings: with your multimeter set to ohms ckeck the continuity of the windings if it shows resistance its probably good, if it shows an "open" OR infinity its probably junk and at this point I would say the price of the part is not worth the price of a new router, it would be time to buy a new router.
4. And I know this sounds silly, but check the power cord why you are at it. This can also be done with an ohm meter to check for an open. Its very possible if it just wont come on your not getting power to the motor.

Hope this helps a little, there are also diagrams on ereplacements website and last time I looked there were a couple short videos.

[Denny Rice]

Me thinks you let the "magic smoke" out of it. It might be better if you do purchase a new router, but all may not be lost. If you purchase the same router that you have now you could always put the bad one away somewhere and keep it for parts just in case something were to break of go "poof" on the new one. JMHO. Like I have posted before in other posts Porter Cable is not very good at reproducing replacement parts anymore for a long period of time since they have become the "consumer" brand of woodworking tools. DeWalt seemed to have knocked them off their Professional throne, and PC was migrated to the basement along with Black and Decker. PC still makes some really good tools including their router line but parts seem to be very limited after only a couple of years.

[Don Morris]

A lot of us have the 7518 in lifts. No problem and it's an awesome router. Just on the high side of the price scale.