Which 60-1/2 clones should I stay away from?

[Matt Ranum]

Finally decided that I seriously need to look around for a low angle block. I can't do new so, in the older used market, whats comparable to the 60 1/2? Are all low angle blocks with adjustable mouths the same? I'm sure their not, so what are the ones to stay away from? Maroon Stanley's? Crapsman? Wards?

[Jim Koepke]

I know Patrick Leach doesn't like the maroon Stanley models. Mine works fine.

Eventually I did buy a new LN 60-1/2. It is a better plane, but my Stanley #60-(1/2)s are still used. The LN block plane is considerably heavier than the old Stanley's, likely the same for LV block planes.

Here is a post on low angle block planes that may be of help:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?123401

The biggest difference over the years on the Stanley planes is the blade bed next to the mouth. The longer bedding at the mouth gives more support to the blade and helps to eliminate some blade chatter. My attempts to purchase one of the older models was always out bid on that auction site so I broke down and bought new.

Note that one of the planes was bought for $1 at a yard sale and was not a bargain. It worked sort of okay after tuning, but wasn't as good as the others. It had a rough casting compared to the others.

jtk

[Tony Zaffuto]

The 60-1/2 that feels best to me is an original 60-1/2! I have an LN low angle version, a LV (set up with the chamfer attachment & a ball and knob), and about 4 or 5 old Stanley's (dirt cheap at flea markets, generally only a couple of bucks). I have yet to find a 60-1/2 that I couldn't get set up to make fluffies. As I said, the original Stanley version feels best to me (I have a maroon and a 1980's version and they cut as good as a 60 or 70 old version).

[Mike Henderson]

While the body makes a small difference, on block planes the big thing is the blade. Assuming you have a decent body, a modern replacement blade (properly sharpened - with the correct bevel angle) will greatly improve the performance of the plane.

Mike

[My favorite block plane is a knuckle joint Stanley 65 with a modern blade.]

[Matt Ranum]

What I'm using now is a 220 & 118. I'm thinking that the adjustable mouth is something that would be of great benefit.

Jim that was a good read that you posted. Thanks.

[Jim Koepke]

Your welcome, glad you enjoyed it.

I may have forgotten to include the part about the $1 special and the concave sole. The way it was discovered before checking is the sole flexed. It revealed it self at the end of a cut when there wasn't as much downward force on the plane as the cut was finished, it wouldn't make it to the end of a board.

jtk

[john davey]

Well, Patrick knows his stuff but I kinda like my maroon 60 1/2.:). I have a pair of them and they work great. One has a chip in the mouth but it doesn't seem to bother it at all. I still have the original blades in them and am happy with them but I am sure Mike's point to the new blades can only upgrade the plane somewhat....John

[Bill Houghton]

Adjustable mouths have their value. Sharpness of the blade, and for some woods sharpening angle, are more important.

[don wilwol]

The more I work with hand planes the less I believe the width of the mouth is important. A sharp iron and a flat sole is much more important.

[Matt Ranum]

Thanks guys.

[David Weaver]

The more I work with hand planes the less I believe the width of the mouth is important. A sharp iron and a flat sole is much more important.

Only when you're beveling something or doing some work where the work actually comes through the mouth does it really matter....as long as you have a second iron or a steep iron.

I think the iron on my smoother is probably somewhere between a fat 16th and an eighth.