Monster Laser "Retrofit"

[David DeCristoforo]

One of the earliest investments I made in my foray into turning was a Monster hollowing rig. I have been very happy with it and it is more than adequate for my needs. The one weak spot has been the laser system. I went through several lasers before I was "inspired" to "pot" the tiny circuit board and delicate soldered wire connections. That eliminated problem #1 which was that the wires would break loose after a while. The other problem is the battery box and switch. It is just not up to the quality of the rest of the unit. It's a cheapo plastic job and the switch does not hold up under "continuous" use. In fact, it is barely able to withstand occasional use. The battery connections are flimsy and do not provide solid, positive contact. As a result, I was having to constantly "thump" the battery box to get the laser to come on. And if only I had a nickel for every time I had to open the battery compartment and clean off the contacts. Then, there is the problem inherent in all battery operated devices… dead batteries. And they always seem to crap out, in keeping with Murphy's law, at the most inconvenient time. I am on an anti battery campaign big time! So here is my "retrofit". I got a "universal" power supply that has a switch to select the output voltage (in this case 3 volts). I replaced the battery box with a small "project box" and mounted a good quality toggle switch in it. Also an RCA jack to allow disconnection of the laser lead wire and a mini jack for the power cord. So far, this has been far more reliable than the "stock" battery box/switch unit and no more dead batteries. Total investment… about twenty bucks.

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[Roger Chandler]

Nice work David........that looks like a fine and beneficial upgrade to the monster laser .........I suppose you posted this so the rest of us might be able to borrow your wonderful idea............I will, if you don't mind! ;) Thanks!

[Dan Hintz]

Unfortunately, it's not just the Monster with this problem. I had a Carter system with a similar issue. Why do these companies think it is acceptable to have such fine wires floating around with no protection, particularly when it will be handled continually? In my case, it broke when I shipped it to the new owner, causing a repurchase of the laser module. Not happy...

[Tim Rinehart]

David, I commend you for your relentless pursuit of the fixes for not just the "commercial" units, but for the same setup I made with parts from Digikey. I suspect they all came from same place. I chuckled on the thumping part, I call that my "intensity control"! I may have to try your solution.

[Chip Sutherland]

I am not mechanically/electronically minded so it would be great if you documented the How-To process/procedure and parts/source list on your Retrofit solution.

I have a Monster setup. I finally just bought a bag of 100 zip ties to afix it to the rod. A couple of times I have gone out to close the shop up for the night and see a faint red dot shining...switch looked off to me.

[David DeCristoforo]

"I suppose you posted this so the rest of us might be able to borrow your wonderful idea..."

I did not apply for a patent You could consider this to be in the "public domain" so... help yourself!

"...it would be great if you documented the How-To process..."

If I can get time, I will. But it's really very simple. Just remember... it's DC voltage so the key word is "polarity"!

[Grant Wilkinson]

That's a fine upgrade, David. I made my own laser set up from scratch, in no small part because the commercial ones seemed to be flimsy and overpriced. I stuck with a battery, but otherwise, did much like you did. I potted everything with epoxy and where wires had to be run, used lots of wire ties.

[David DeCristoforo]

"...used lots of wire ties..."


I'm big on wire ties too. But I have found that it is an exercise in futility to tie down the laser lead wire. The ties invariably end up restricting the movement of the bar so every time I want to adjust the position of the laser, I have to clip a few ties. Now I just loosely wrap the wire around the bar after it's in position. That's why I used an RCA connection for the lead wire… so It can be disconnected, wrapped a few times around the bar and reconnected again.

[Wally Dickerman]

I have a monster hollowing tool complete with laser. My experience with the laser was unusual. I hadn't used the tool for some time and when I started to set it up I was very surprised to find that the batteries has somehow shorted out and the small battery case had literally melted and the wires were burned. That took a lot of heat. I wish that I had taken some pictures. The mfr. replaced the unit and since than I've had no problems.

[George Morris]

David great fix. As I am also electrically challenged I agree with chip ,a how to and mfg. # would be a great help! Thanks for your post! G

[Chip Sutherland]

yep....the wire ties are a pain.

[David DeCristoforo]

"...it would be great if you documented the How-To process..."

"...a how to and mfg. # would be a great help..."

OK. Here's a list of what you need. Mostly available at Radio Shack. I used a mini jack on one end and an RCA jack on the other for no reason other than I had the bits and pieces on hand. It does make it obvious which plugs into which but there is no reason that you could not use one or the other on both ends.

Power Supply (http://www.amazon.com/VCT-VX-79NP-Multi-purpose-Universal-Converter/dp/B0014JUGTQ/ref=pd_sim_e_5)

Project Box (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062279)

Toggle Switch (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR4/85906/N0947.oap?ck=Search_N0947_-1_-1&pt=N0947&ppt=C0335)

1/8” Mono Phone Plug (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062452&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PPC&utm_term=2062452&utm_content=Exact&utm_campaign=PLA&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CLj1_q2DtLYCFWVyMAodYiUAAA&gclsrc=ds)

1/8" Mono Panel-Mount Audio Jack (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103453&locale=en_US)

RCA Plug (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103423&znt_campaign=Category_CMS&znt_source=CAT&znt_medium=RSCOM&znt_content=CT2032231)

Panel-Mount RCA Phono Jack (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103224&znt_campaign=Category_CMS&znt_source=CAT&znt_medium=RSCOM&znt_content=CT20322)

Here's the "diagram". This is really as simple as it gets. Just two wires with one routed through the switch. It did not take much longer than it took to make this little diagram. The only possible problem would be not keeping the proper polarity. With DC voltage, positive and negative have to be continuos. If you cross the wires at any point, it wont work.

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You could also just forget the whole thing and connect the power supply directly to the laser since it has a built in switch (the voltage selector) that has a "off" position. But it probably would not be as convenient.