Don't know what to call it or how to find.....M&T with mitered ?

[Rick Potter]

Sorry for the confusing title, but that's my problem. I don't know what to call what I want to do.

I am going to be making raised panel oak doors for the kitchen soon, and I thought I would like to try to build them differently than the usual cope and stick on the router table. I want to do a mortise and tenon, on the framework, using loose tenons (maybe dowels). What I want to do is basically stick all the pieces, and cut the routed edges to make the corners fit. I have tried to find articles, videos, etc showing the process, but I always end up with info on making mitered CORNER doors, which I do not want. I want to say it is M&T with mitered stick, but that turns up nothing.

I want it to look just like I coped the rails, but the joint would actually have butt ends tenoned or dowelled.

I have the Fine WW DVD, and I can get hold of the WOODSMITH DVD, and lots of WOOD magazines, I just cannot figure out how to find info that I know has to be there.

Any help clearing the fog would be appreciated. If anyone has done this and has jigs, info or advice I would doubly appreciate it.

Rick Potter

[Dave Richards]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8244/8619018707_6e63530083.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/8294157@N08/8619018707/)
Like this?

It seems to me there was a video on the Fine Woodworking site showing how to cut those. I'll see if I can find it.

[Mark Wooden]

Mortise and tenon with mitered sticking is the correct way to describe the joint; sometimes it's called a 'jack' miter. Simple to set-up and cut, it gets fast & easy after the first dozen or so. But , be forewarned- this joint is more susceptable to opening/closing with climatic temperature and humidity changes. What's tight on Monday might have a gap on Friday.....
It's a joint that I often use whenever the sticking profile can't be coped easily(or at all). Here's one way-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJV1bwEw-y0

You can figure how to cut your tenon pretty easily.

[Alden Miller]

Mitered Sticking, my favorite way to make door frames.

I believe it was Lonnie Bird that had a really nice article in American Woodworker about this technique a few years back.

-Alden

http://books.google.com/books?id=o_YDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA58&lpg=PA58&dq=lonnie+bird+mitered+sticking&source=bl&ots=3v0M6MdXS9&sig=QZZ5JgyXrqX79H0ZOCW6hWXjob8&hl=en&sa=X&ei=g9NdUauQNsS30QG_9YGICg&ved=0CDAQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=lonnie%20bird%20mitered%20sticking&f=false

[Stephen Cherry]

Fww did have some articles on this, it's been a while.

Basically, you need to decide if you want a mitered little corner on the back, or a step on the top and bottom of the door.

For the little molded part, it's possible cope the little cut. THis can be done by cutting the 45 on only one of the parts, and using a gouge and chisel to cope it out by using the cut line as a guide for the gouge.

[Bob Lang]

I wrote a tutorial for the Popular Woodworking Magazine editor's blog back in 2007. If you go to the blog and search on "Beaded Frame Joints" you should find it.

Bob Lang

[Stephen Cherry]

Here are some from fww:
The frame and panel Ian Kirby

The scribed joint Morris J Sheppard

Paneled doors and walls Norman L Vandal

and from a book:
American furniture treasures by Lester Margin p 15, 118

[Peter Quinn]

I've heard it referred to as a "Jack miter" and a "mason's miter", though mason's miter may actually be something slightly different and a misnomer for wood working. I've done them by getting close with a TS and miter gauge, blade at a 45 degree bevel, then using a little hand work to finish up. I've also seen a guy make a jig that allows a router to flush trim 95% of the waste, after first wasting much of it with a BS, then a quick chisel in the corner. Seemed to work well, I might try it myself next time the need arises. There are also the Kreg router bits, 45 degree bevel with a flat top no bearing, made for beaded face frames, that could do the same job.

Here is a reasonable intro to the concept I just found on google. Not super thorough, but a good sketch of how to proceed.

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/797840/woodworking_joint_the_jack_miter/

[Rick Potter]

Wow,

Thanks a lot guys. Dave, your pic shows just what I want. I am thinking of trying it with a loose tenon.

I really appreciate all the input everyone has given me, I know some of it must have taken a lot of time. I am looking to expand my fairly basic skillset and build the kitchen doors a bit differently this time. You all have helped a lot, and I will explore each of these suggestions. Now I have a really solid starting point, and I know what to call what I am looking for.

Rick Potter

[Dave Richards]

Rick, you're welcome.

FWIW, if you're going to do it with a loose tenon, don't make the mortises come up as high as they do in my drawing. If you do, the mortise on the rail will open into the groove for the panel.