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View Full Version : My method for making Mills



Jerry Marcantel
04-03-2013, 11:03 PM
Roger couldn't figure out what I was describing in the way I make mills, so pictures speak volumes. As I said, the holes don't have to align if you do it my way.
#1 258963 I've roughed out the OD 2 1/2" and chamber height, 9", plus my bottom detail at the tailstock. My cut to split the top from the chamber is towards the top, leaving me a 2 1/4" tenon.
#2 258964 Top and chamber is cut and ready to drill.
#3258965 I drill out a 1 3/4" x 1/2+ deep hole. Directions say 1 5/8", but you should be able to drill whatever you want over 1 5/8".
#4258966 the 1 1/16" hole is just about done. It's 9" deep.
#5258967 This is a pretty bad picture, but it's looking through the chuck ghost and depicts the drill bit ready to poke through. The pyrimid shadow is a wood thickness of 1/16". I wasn't paying attention to that end once, and drilled into my chuck. That was a bummer and a wake up call to know where the end of the bit is.
#6258969 Thew hole is done, and not time to set up my mortise on the top. I drill a 1 3/8" hole 3/8" deep.
#7258970 My other secret weapon for making mills. The smallest diameter is 1/4" for doing the top after the 1/4' hole is drilled. Different perspective is shown in another later. The OD is 1 1/16". The small holes on the steps were to indicate where to put the screws, but when I did those, they were off quite a bit, so I don't use them.
More later.....Jerry (in Tucson)

Jim Burr
04-03-2013, 11:14 PM
Ha!!! Great work Jerry! It's never as hard as other people make it seem! Mills are 90% drilling and 20% turning.

Jerry Marcantel
04-03-2013, 11:27 PM
#8258980 Mill bottom set up into jamb chuck.

#9258981 Top end of mill is at the live center ready to trim the tenon to 1 3/8" to match the recess I drilled into the top earlier.

#10258982 The top and chamber has been fit, and now is ready to start the shaping. I normally seperate the two parts, and work the chamber. After that I put the top onto the body, and then shape that, and then sand.... I've found doing it this way causes both parts to be centered at all times
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#11 258983 I call this my Mill Kit. All tools necessary to turn a mill are in one centrally located spot, except the for the turning tools which are located next to the outboard headstock.
Thanks for looking...... Jerry

Jerry Marcantel
04-03-2013, 11:31 PM
Ha!!! Great work Jerry! It's never as hard as other people make it seem! Mills are 90% drilling and 20% turning.

Jim, it takes me 7 minutes to drill a 9" hole.About 1 minute to the 1 3/4" hole, and 30 seconds to drill the 1/4" hole. Making it look good takes a lifetime, because the maker is never happy with what they just did.... Jerry (in Tucson)

Jim Burr
04-04-2013, 10:41 AM
I always drill first. My spigot jaws close to 1" and the center bore is 1-1/16"...perfect and secure fit and makes turning easier than using a wood jamb chuck...but that is JMHO.

Roger Chandler
04-04-2013, 2:30 PM
Thanks for the peek at your setup and technique, Jerry........nicely done! Having the advantage of being able to machine your own jigs/chucks must be rewarding in and of itself! I have gotten lots of good advice......I can adapt some of yours into my process......turning a similar jam chuck and btw.......nice organizer for your peppermill setup......that is first class!