Home brew under blade TS dust collection...

[Michael Dunn]

Sup guys?!!?

I've been on a quest to improve all aspects of shop dust collection. My Delta 34-444 has been a beast to conquer in this area. However, today, I completed my third attempt after two 'prototypes' (i.e. failed attempts). It was extremely difficult due to many factors mostly just that it was dang near impossible to take exact measurements of what my dims should be. Just when I bought I had it right I realized I wouldn't be able to make 45's. can't have that.

I'm pretty happy with the results. I plane to put hardboard or 1/4" ply beneath the saw to quarantine it from contaminating my cabinet beneath the saw.

Here are the pics... Enjoy!!! I also made 5 MDF ZCI's. I used some magnetic card stock to stop up some holes on the sheet metal frame of the saw. Not seen in the pics. Now to go get some great stuff to stop up beneath the CI top.

[Greg Peterson]

Very nice. Obviously coming up with a shroud for this configuration requires some extra thought and execution. Well done.

[Phil Thien]

Very nice. Obviously coming up with a shroud for this configuration requires some extra thought and execution. Well done.

Yeah, mark me impressed!

[Michael Dunn]

Thanx guys!!!

[Brian Brightwell]

Congrats on achieving your goal.

[Joseph Tarantino]

that's a good idea.

[Michael Dunn]

that's a good idea.

Thanx! I actually started by order a replacement part for the Grizzly 1023 cabinet saw. As you can see, my plan to retrofit it into my 34-444 didn't avail to much. I cannibalized it so much it's barely recognizable.

I've seen some other guys here use sheet metal. I though of going that route, but I'm under the gun to get up and running efficiently so I went with what I know best. Wood... Well, it's actually MDF, but its more like wood than sheet metal is.

I also used some magnetic card stock for covering the few small holes including the rather large oval like ellipse for the bevel slot. It's pretty cool. The magnet slides along the metal with the travel of the wheel.

[Rick Markham]

Yeah, mark me impressed!

That right there, is approval enough! Phil knows!!!

I'm impressed too that's the nicest shroud I've seen in a contractor saw... I have one that could use that... (I kinda wish it would just die so I could get a nice new slider! :eek::D)

[Joseph Tarantino]

.....I also used some magnetic card stock for covering the few small holes including the rather large oval like ellipse for the bevel slot. It's pretty cool. The magnet slides along the metal with the travel of the wheel.


got a pic or two of that? maybe a short, quick video of how you made that move and keep the slot covered as the blade is beveled?

[Michael Dunn]

got a pic or two of that? maybe a short, quick video of how you made that move and keep the slot covered as the blade is beveled?

I'll upload a quick YT vid. It's super simple. I wish the magnet was stronger though.

[Michael Dunn]

Here's a quick demo vid of the magnetic card stock (somewhat) in action. I'm in the middle of doing a near complete shop overhaul. I upgraded my TS, jointer, planer, and DC. At the moment my drop down outfeed table is impeding the right tilt action when it's dropped down. I'll have to overcome that soon.

I gave a quick little ADD type partial shop tour as well. You'll get the idea of the magnetic card stock idea even though the motor travel was limited.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-oErwr08_w&list=UUSYqA_qYFygbXAmFIe_EasQ&index=1

[Joe Shinall]

Very impressive Michael. I never thought of how much leakage I'm getting through all the gaps in my TS until that video!

[Chris Parks]

You need leakage to make the DC work from any table saw. As for a contractor saw, build a cabinet and take it off the original stand, the DC will be far more effective and easier to install.

[Michael W. Clark]

I'll second what Chris is saying. The air going in the DC hose has to come from somewhere. There may be some benefit to seeling things up so you can control where the make-up air is coming from. This concept is often employed on cabinet DC for router tables.

Mike

[Michael Dunn]

Very true. Trust me though, there's more than enough air flow since the rear of the saw is still wide open. I plan to close it off a bit though.


You need leakage to make the DC work from any table saw. As for a contractor saw, build a cabinet and take it off the original stand, the DC will be far more effective and easier to install.

[Robert Willing]

Great shroud for DC, but in your 3rd photo look like a bear to install dado and saw blades.

[Michael Dunn]

Great shroud for DC, but in your 3rd photo look like a bear to install dado and saw blades.

It'll be a bit cramped, but one piece at a time. Plus I mostly use my regular thin kerf blades anyhow. I use my router and exact width dado jig for most dados. That being said, I don't think it'll be a major pain. Any extra pain should be more than offset by having less dust to clean. Hopefully...

[Michael Dunn]

Update!!!

Though this may have looked nice it is barely functional. It captured dust nicely. However, the hose kept getting caught up while adjust to and from 90deg. So I abandoned the idea altogether and now use a 14"x14" under TS solution. It seems to work as good if not better. I may try to enclose the rear of the saw a bit more though.

Oh well... Live and learn...