14" Cal-Hawk BS issues revisited...

[Michael Dunn]

Hey guys!!!

This BS has been the most regrettable PT purchase in my entire life. Finding SMC was the only good thing to come of it. I started a thread on this 3+ years ago and can or find it.

Here's the issue... The blade kicks out (or back... Can't really tell, even in person let alone in the video). Here's what I've done to the saw since I paid $100 for it.

New urethane tires, new blades, new guides, Olson cool blocks, new thrust bearings, wheel brushes, new power switch, mobile wheel base, and a light. The blade makes a 'noise' with every revolution. Hard to describe. It's sort of a scratching sound. Not metal on metal, at least not to my ears.

I tried to rotate the wheel by hand to see if I could pinpoint what is actually happening. To no avail. This is an issue since it creates a pretty severe 'jerking' motion while cutting and thus a terrible cut as well as being dangerous.

Here's the video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HtLzan2sRcg

[Michael Dunn]

HD video version... Maybe a slight improvement in VQ.

[Bill White]

What blade (brand) are ya usin'? Sounds and looks like a bad blade to me. Have ya tried another?
Bill

[Michael Dunn]

All Pro Professional 1/4" 6 TPI. I also have a 1/2" 3 TPI. I've yet to used

[Rick Potter]

Bad weld on the back of the blade? Riding against the rear guide bearing? If so, back off the bearing (s) and see if it makes a difference.

Rick Potter

[Michael Dunn]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hR4R4lBwGxY Sent from my iPhone

[Mark Bolton]

By the sound in the video the timing seems to be precisely with the wheel rotation. I would be looking for a bent wheel. Have you put a dial indicator on the wheels (under tension) and rotated them by hand to see? A bad blade would be a clear consideration but can only assume this happens regardless of the blade on the machine?

[Michael Dunn]

I'm pretty sure it's not the wheels. I can check again. I check them with a dial indicator a few years ago. You can see in the video the wheels are pretty straight. You can also see that the blade is what's moving back and forth.

My initial thread years ago had me checking the blade backsides for flatness. I actually had it cutting well for a while.
On another, but similar note, I REALLY NEED A ZCI INSERT for my BS. I bought some, but they're like 1/32" or so too large in diameter.

Some guys said to buy a fly cutter. So I did, evidently my fly cutter sucks. Any tips on what to do?

[Peter Aeschliman]

Another vote for bad weld on the blade. You say you checked flatness a few years ago, but is this a new blade since then? I can't be sure, but that's what I would check first. Since the blade is bobbing back and forth in a rhythmic pattern on every revolution, I suspect that your blade wasn't welded straight. The sound and the pulse of the blade movement are coordinated. Your wheels would have to be pretty jacked up to do this.

Also, try your other blade and see if the condition changes.

[Michael Dunn]

I'm so torn. I'm such a determined person with endless drive to complete the most difficult of tasks. Such as getting a good cut from this apparently crappy saw. However, the other side of me could REALLY use this to justify buying a new/old upgrade of a BS. I'm thinking of a 17" Grizzly. I think maybe ill do both, eventually. As in, get this saw tuned up and re-sawing.

What to do? What to do?