butcher block countertop overhang support?

[tim althoff]

I am finishing my butcher block countertop for the peninsula in our kitchen and not sure how much support i will need for the overhang.

-white oak edge grain butch block about 2" thick. with grain of wood is going side to side.
-width is 60"
-depth is 36"
-overhang is 11"

I was planning on routing angle iron into block at three sections. the closest i could find is 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" steel angle iron. I really don't want anything protruding underneath. Will this offer enough support?

Tim

[Sam Murdoch]

If you fasten this down well to a cabinet that is also very secure to the floor you should be fine with an unsupported 11". Any gain from the steel bar would be negligible and even counterproductive.

[Kevin Bourque]

Is the overhang on the width or the length? If it's on the length I wouldn't use any support. If it's on the width I might use something structural that is also decorative, but you don't need to overdo it.

[johnny means]

Back when countertops were all I did everyday, we didn't add support to anything 12" or under.

[Jamie Buxton]

The overhang is in the with-the-grain direction? And it is only 11"? And the other end of the counter is 60" away? It is white oak, and 2" thick. If the other end of counter is tied down well, you could park a truck on the overhang without breaking it. Heck, you'd probably crush the cabinet underneath before the counter breaks.

[Dave Lewis]

Tim:

Our maple 1-1/2 inch thick island top overhang is 13-inches and has a cutout for a Wolf cooktop and Broan downdraft exhaust. It does sag. If I had to do over, maybe create slots for 3/8" x 2" flat bar stock and stop just short of edges. Be sure to provide slots (vs. holes) for screwing into underside - except center, to allow top seasonal expansion.

[tim althoff]

to be clear, grain and glue seams are going width. the overhang is depth and would think the countertop would snap on the glued seams...

[Sam Murdoch]

If it is properly glued the wood will break before the glue joint does. But for some reassurance you could run some 12" to 14" x 5/16" or 3/8" carriage bolts into the edge of the overhang. Bore some access holes for nuts into the underside that will be resting on the cabinet so that those are hidden, and then leave the bolt heads exposed (painted if you like with metal spray paints of any color) or set and plug the holes.


Another alternative is to set the top onto a 3/4" plywood subtop. Glue and screw that down to your cabinet top. Leave the ply 1" or 2" away from the perimeter of the overhang and apply a piece of solid wood trim finished to match the cabinet bases (at least color wise) or of white oak to match the butcher block. You could then attach your butcher block with a few beads of PL floor construction adhesive. Simple and effective.