Grizzly track saw review

[david brum]

Hi all. In case you're interested in one of the bargain track saws, here's a review of mine. I've had it a week and have fussed around and adjusted it to get good performance. It took a few hours though, so I wouldn't consider these saws to be ready to go out of the box. With some work my saw is now performing beautifully.

At first blush, this isn't a bad set up. The track is a nice extrusion. Mine was straight and butted nicely with the extension with no noticeable bump when sliding over the connection. Since I got a post card from Grizzly saying that my accessory kit including the track connectors wouldn't be available for a month, I made my own. The Grizzly accessory kit naturally arrived the day after I made my connectors, so now I have plenty. Grizzly track has the ability to accept two connectors, making a pretty stable 110" track. The only bad thing about the track is the placement of the glide strips, which I'll get to in a bit.

The actual saw isn't terrible at all. I was expecting something more crude, so I was surprised at the fit and finish. I expect to get may years of use out of mine. There are some design and manufacturing flaws which will keep these saws from good performance. They're mostly all fixable though. Here's an overview:

1)The plunge action is a little stiff because of the heavy spring. This doesn't really affect use, but a lighter spring would give the plunge action a better feel.

2)There is a slight arbor wobble. I don't know if this matters, but my Porter Cable circular saw doesn't have any wobble

3)The depth adjuster doesn't move easily. I remedied this by removing the adjuster mechanism ( accessible from behind the blade) and sanding the parts for a better fit. Mine works great now.

4)The cutting performance with the stock blade is awful, at least with mine. The cut was labored and tear out was obvious. It might be OK for roughly breaking down sheet goods, but all of the cuts would have to re-done later with something better.

I ordered an Oshlun track saw (http://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-SBFT-160048-Crosscut-Festool-SP6000K/dp/B0030GGFRS)blade to replace the original. It was about $22 and matches the green graphics on the saw. It made a world of difference, even though it looks almost identical to the stock blade. The saw cuts much more easily and tear out is very, very slight. After I wear out this blade, I'll probably get a nicer Freud blade. At this time though, I didn't want to invest a bunch into a saw that I wasn't sure about. In my opinion, this is a necessary upgrade to make one of these saws work properly.

5) The saw isn't stable on the track. There is about 1/8" of wobble side to side. If you take a look at the Grizzly track vs others, you'll see why. The Festool, Dewalt and Makita tracks all have their glide strips toward the outside edges of the saw plate. The Grizzly glide strips are in the middle, nowhere near the edges. They act as a fulcrum for the saw base. The glide strips are raised above the aluminum track, so a bit of pressure away from the center of the saw makes it tip in or out, ruining the cut. I have no idea why the track was built this way, but it makes the saw precarious and ruins the cut and user confidence. Fortunately, there's an easy fix.

I double taped ~ 1/8" hardwood shim to the left side of the saw plate, and a tape-thickness shim to the right. These are essentially outriggers that stabilize the base and keep it nice and square. I used iron-on melamine edge tape, but might try some sort of teflon tape if I had some. After adding the tape, the saw is plenty stable.

6) Dust collection is OK--much better than a circular saw. It could be better, though. A lot of stuff gets out ahead of the cut. I suppose it's the same on most track saws. I plan to make some Festool-style splinter guards for my saw, which should help contain the dust.

Overall I'm happy with the saw. I'm not happy that I had to modify it to get it to work properly. On the other hand, I can't remember buying many power tools that didn't have to be modified to work well. Anybody buying one of these had better plan to at least buy a better blade and shim the base.

As the ultimate test of the saw's ability to cut a crisp line, I crosscut some 3/4" Home Depot maple plywood scraps. The veneer on this stuff is microscopically thin and will tear out if you look at it wrong. I definitely am getting acceptable cuts, comparable to what I'd get on the tablesaw with a fine crosscut blade. I think that an upgrade to a specialty veneer/melamine blade would work even better. As it is, the quality of the cut is good enough for me.

Here are a couple of photos of everybody else's track vs the Grizzly. Note where the glide strips are located.

[david brum]

Here are a few details. The first photo shows the base shims. The second shows the height adjuster mechanism--note that it is in inches!. Third photo is the stock blade. Fourth shows the accessory kit. The kit comes with some nice, acme thread clamps. These work great. It also comes with some cheesy clamps which you'd never use unless you had to. Nice little anti tip attachment and stopped cut attachment. The track connector is nice quality also, although not sure why you only get one.

[Alan Bienlein]

You definitely have me sold on it! Now I just need to leave it up on the computer screen so when LOML sees it she orders it.

[david brum]

That definitely doesn't work at my house!

As an aside though, I forgot to mention the advantage of a tracksaw from a safety standpoint ( always a good argument). Having the blade retract before you have to exit the cut is nice. I was previously using a straight edge and circular saw. It always felt awkward walking around the shop with an unguarded blade sticking out of the saw between cuts.

[Rick Potter]

Good review, and tips, David. How about the chip strip for the blade? Any problems?

Rick Potter

[Joe Scharle]

Sorry to hear the Grizzly version has problems. I bought a Sheppach in Feb and compared it side by side with a T55. The stock blade did not leave a burnished edge like the T55, but everything else was similar including dust collection. I always cut on 1" foam, so I tend to get most of the dust.

[Larry Frank]

Excuse me for the following comments, but I could not quite understand the review.

I guess that I wonder why I would buy this saw.

Based upon the review, the blade has a wobble, the depth gauge does not work well and the saw is not stable on the track.

Did I miss something? I can do as well with my old circular saw and a straight piece of wood.

[Richard Coers]

Hey Larry, he said the arbor has a wobble and the blade is junk. Not that the blade wobbles.
I understand the review, it's very good. What I don't understand is the excitement to buy one based on the review.




Excuse me for the following comments, but I could not quite understand the review.

I guess that I wonder why I would buy this saw.

Based upon the review, the blade has a wobble, the depth gauge does not work well and the saw is not stable on the track.

Did I miss something? I can do as well with my old circular saw and a straight piece of wood.

[Alan Bienlein]

What I don't understand is the excitement to buy one based on the review.

Thats easy to answer. I've used the festool ts55 and wasn't impressed with it. The saw motor sounded like it was about to blow up it grumbled so much and when you joined two tracks together they weren't straight. No matter what we did to align the tracks what ever we cut was never straight. Why pay all that money for something like that when for half the price I can by a track saw that will do the same thing as the festool.

[John Schweikert]

I bought a Festool TS75 last fall, the single most expensive tool for my home shop to date. So the decision wasn't taken lightly. But I have zero buyers remorse.

I took the saw out of the box, laid it on the track, trimmed the rail splinter guard, then proceeded to cut down a 3/4" ply sheet to makes drawers for a mudroom. The pieces were so square, I could flip them any which way and the equal lengths matched exactly with a finger touch, we all know what that feels like.

I've used it a bunch and have yet to re-square or reset anything on the saw. From that perspective the price was worth the package.

But the only downside to the TS75 is the size, it's big. Certainly excessive for sheet goods. But I also have tons of rough cut wood I'll soon start working on and that was the other main purpose for choosing the 75.

I would certainly buy the Grizzly track saw to have a smaller, cheaper, lighter version, but not so sure now, if the setup requires a lot more time and effort to get it right. Even then not sure I'm sold.

[david brum]

How about the chip strip for the blade? Any problems?

Nope, Rick. It works fine. It is probably 3/8" wider than necessary when new. It gets custom cut to the correct width on the first cut.




Excuse me for the following comments, but I could not quite understand the review.

I guess that I wonder why I would buy this saw.

Based upon the review, the blade has a wobble, the depth gauge does not work well and the saw is not stable on the track.

Did I miss something? I can do as well with my old circular saw and a straight piece of wood.


That's a good question. The point that I was trying to make is that it's a decent saw, but takes some tuning out of the box to make it fully functional. I don't know about it being comparable to a circular saw and straight edge, though. There are lots of advantages with a track saw--that's why so many people buy them. This one is way cheaper than the alternatives and still has the important features, which is why people are excited about it. It agree that it's too bad that it requires modification.



Sorry to hear the Grizzly version has problems. I bought a Sheppach in Feb and compared it side by side with a T55. The stock blade did not leave a burnished edge like the T55, but everything else was similar including dust collection. I always cut on 1" foam, so I tend to get most of the dust.


That's really interesting. I assumed that the Scheppach and Grizzly saws were identical. It's possible that I'm overly picky....

The foam is a good idea for capturing dust. I have a few scraps around the shop and give it a try.

[Stan Krupowies]

Thats easy to answer. I've used the festool ts55 and wasn't impressed with it. The saw motor sounded like it was about to blow up it grumbled so much and when you joined two tracks together they weren't straight. No matter what we did to align the tracks what ever we cut was never straight. Why pay all that money for something like that when for half the price I can by a track saw that will do the same thing as the festool.

I'd have to say that you are in the minority. Not that everyone that buys Festool becomes a devout green kool aid drinker, but I've rarely, if ever, heard anyone say that. I have a TS55 and couldn't be happier with it. I have two of the 55" guide rails and I can butt them together and they are straight as can be. I don't even have to check them, though I always do with a 3' straight edge. As for the saw sounding rough, I really haven't noticed. I use it primarily on sheet goods but recently I used it for an initial cut on rough 4/4 cherry and worked great.

[John Schweikert]

The Festool TS motors continuously control the blade speed to maintain optimum speed for whatever material is being cut. That's why it sounds that way. Not much different from a modern variable speed controlled router. I completely agree that joining tracks is a poor idea, works for some people and not for others. That's when a one piece 8ft+ track is needed and pays for itself in the quality of cuts over long runs. Hopefully Grizzly will introduce long tracks soon.

[Ole Anderson]

I will have about 8 sheets of 3/4" hickory ply to break down for my kitchen remodel. I don't want to drink the green kool aid, or the yellow or blue, although I have tasted the last two. So that leaves my old B&D Sawcat and a straightedge or the Grizz tracksaw or one of its predecessors. My shop is too small to wrestle those big sheets onto my TS, I'd rather cut them into smaller pieces in the garage using a sheet of 1" foam on a sheet of ply on sawhorses.

[Joe Spear]

Thats easy to answer. I've used the festool ts55 and wasn't impressed with it. The saw motor sounded like it was about to blow up it grumbled so much and when you joined two tracks together they weren't straight. No matter what we did to align the tracks what ever we cut was never straight. Why pay all that money for something like that when for half the price I can by a track saw that will do the same thing as the festool.


I have the TS 55. Everything in the above quote is the opposite of my experience. I use it mainly to break down plywood into more easily handled pieces, sometimes using the pieces right off the saw and sometimes further sizing them on my table saw. The two-piece track joins easily and gives a perfectly straight edge. I cut on a piece of foam insulation and get accurate, smooth cuts and great dust collection with the Festool vacuum.

[Paul Wunder]

http://www.hingmy.com/content.php?207-The-Grizzly-T10687-Track-Saw-Review

Above link is to the first full professional review that I have seen on the Grizzly T/S. Good marks overall for the hobbyist. Review is detailed and seems well thought out.

[Larry Frank]

I have the Festool T55 and have absolutely no problems with it. Yes, the motor sounds different but the cut is great. I cut full sheets of plywood in the garage on a 2" thick piece of insulating foam. I have to join two of the guides together but have not had a problem with straightness. I will admit that I use a piece of 3/4 x 3 strip of wood to support the guide in the middle. I have done this with all of the guides that I have ever used as supporting a 8 foot guide at just both ends invites some movement.

I would rate the purchase of this tool as one of the best investments that I ever made.

[Greg R Bradley]

http://www.hingmy.com/content.php?207-The-Grizzly-T10687-Track-Saw-Review

Above link is to the first full professional review that I have seen on the Grizzly T/S. Good marks overall for the hobbyist. Review is detailed and seems well thought out.

It does seem to be well thought out but unfortunately, it is full of obvious errors. It does look more like he is just careless rather than devious.

I bought a Festool track saw 20 years ago and have since bought the Makita and Festool TS55. I borrow a TS75 on the rare occasions when needed. I've used the Dewalt and Mafell and have friends that have those. I think the Makita bought on-sale is a good choice for someone that can't justify the more expensive units.

When comparing equivalent configurations, the Makita and Dewalt at their low on-sale prices were just slightly more than the vastly inferior Grizzly, Sheppach, Woodstar, Bela, Holzmann, Bernador, Sauter, and Batavia.

[Geoff Barry]

It does seem to be well thought out but unfortunately, it is full of obvious errors. It does look more like he is just careless rather than devious.



Perhaps more obvious to you than they were to me :) What did you think was erroneous?

[Greg R Bradley]

Perhaps more obvious to you than they were to me :) What did you think was erroneous?
Sorry, I didn't mean obvious to anyone reading the article. I meant obvious to someone that knows many of the facts about the units. There were so many that I didn't really keep track but the most obvious is that he seems to have not used any saw but the Grizzly. I wonder if he used the Grizzly.

An example is that stands out is that nobody that has used these could have written or proof read the power ratings. The Makita being the most powerful and the Mafell being the weakest are both just silly. I have not looked at spec sheets but just from using them I can tell you that the Festool TS75 or the Mafell MT55 is the most powerful. It isn't quite obvious since the TS75 has a much larger and wider kerf blade. The Makita and the Dewalt are both slightly more powerful than the Festool TS55.

The explanation that blade speed makes up for Horsepower indicates a basic lack of understanding of Horsepower, which equals Torque times RPM. Horsepower equals Torque at 5252 RPM. The silliness of "rating" the speed of the saws by RPM when they have radically different blade diameters is another example.

[Geoff Barry]

Ahh. got it - thanks. Yeah, I thought the point about speed was strange, as I would imagine the saws are optimized for their respective blade diameters. And I think the horsepower chart is way off becasue they seem to have confused watts with horsepower - according to Mafell's specs, it is 1400 watts, which (I believe) is a shade under 2hp - they clearly looked at 1400 and said, "oh, 1.4 hp."

I've used a TS55, and seen the Dewalt and Makita, but never used them. The one good thing about this review is that it does appear to based on the reviewer's actual use of the Grizzly. And I didn't pick up too much of the "this is better than a Festool at 1/2 the cost" vibe that a lot of comments on these saws seem to have. I liked the TS55, and if cash was no object, I'd have one, but it is, and I'm not a high volume hobbyist, so I'm always curious to see if any of the bargain options are "good enough". It can be hard to tell when the reviewer has an axe to gind (whether pro-festool or anti-festool).

[Ole Anderson]

I received my Grizz tracksaw and cut up my first sheet of ply today. Up front I added the Freud crosscut blade to it based on earlier reviews. Here is my quick take:


Good news: with the Freud blade it does a good job of cutting 3/4" hickory ply straight without any unacceptable tear-out or splintering. Hickory is notorious for tear-out and splintering. I will save the Grizz blade for rough stuff.
The baseplate is not flat which caused it to rock on the rail. I fixed it by adding two layers of Slicktape to the low corner. I anticipated that problem. I may have to play with that further.
The tracks were not flat, further compounding the wobble issue. They should have been flattened at the factory. Nothing I want to try at home.
The groove on the baseplate needed a bit of sanding w/400 grit paper to smooth it up.
The second 55" rail should come with two connectors, not one, two would really help keep it straight at the joint while moving it around.
I had to trim the green poly at the end of the tracks so they could butt together.
The saw would not slide easily past the joint of two joined tracks. I had to align them before tightening the connector screws, and then I still had to sand the slide portion of the rail to avoid the saw catching. And I had to loosen the slide adjusters more than I liked to get it to slide past the joint.
As previously stated, the plunge lock button is awkward to use, but you get used to it, as you do the somewhat stiff plunge spring.
The sawdust chute is an odd size, I had to wrap tape around my vac end to get it to stay. I have a wall mount vac with a long 1.5" hose in my garage. It only catches half of the sawdust, in this I am most disappointed. I have to sweep the sheet off between cuts.
The clamps provided worked well.
The concept of using a tracksaw to break a sheet into 10 pieces per the Maxcut drawing does not lend itself to any speed compared to using a table saw with ample room and table support. In my case, I don't have much choice as I don't have room in my basement shop either for proper sheet support tables or room to swing a sheet around. First thing I had to do was fab up an accurate right angle gauge, neither my framing square nor drywall square met the flip test. Then instead of running it along the TS fence to rip, you have to mark the sheet at each end and the middle, then line up and clamp the track before you can even cut. Try ripping the sheet at 24" then at 12", then use one track section to cut the 12" x 96" piece into manageable sections to get into my shop. Not easy, you have to support the track with an offcut.


Bottom line, even with the shortcomings noted, I now have a reasonably priced saw that will cut sheet goods accurately and cleanly, well except for the not so clean sawdust issue.

[david brum]

If you go to this (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?201914-Grizzly-Track-Saw-Review-from-TWW/page2) thread and scroll down to #17, there is a photo of an outboard spinter guard that I made for my Grizzly track saw. It helps capture almost all of the sawdust.

[Ole Anderson]

David, thank you, I remember seeing that, but frankly I was in too much of a hurry to try out the saw. Now that I saw how bad the sawdust collection is (not sure how much of that is due to my vac) I copied your idea. Instead of going to the store to source longer metric screws and messing with locating the holes from the blind side, I just used some truss head 8-32 screws I had and then drilled and tapped the aluminum saw guard. The holes in the MDF are oversize for adjustability, much like a drawer pull. I glued some 1/4" Masonite to the shoe as zero clearance "sole". As a bonus, it helps with the tipping issue. I just need to be careful to only snug the screw up into the fairly thin aluminum. If it strips, I have room on the backside for a nut. The small pile of sawdust next to the saw is what the vac did not pick up on ripping 8 feet of 3/4" ply. Much improved.

[David Kuzdrall]

David, thank you, I remember seeing that, but frankly I was in too much of a hurry to try out the saw. Now that I saw how bad the sawdust collection is (not sure how much of that is due to my vac) I copied your idea. Instead of going to the store to source longer metric screws and messing with locating the holes from the blind side, I just used some truss head 8-32 screws I had and then drilled and tapped the aluminum saw guard. The holes in the MDF are oversize for adjustability, much like a drawer pull. I glued some 1/4" Masonite to the shoe as zero clearance "sole". As a bonus, it helps with the tipping issue. I just need to be careful to only snug the screw up into the fairly thin aluminum. If it strips, I have room on the backside for a nut. The small pile of sawdust next to the saw is what the vac did not pick up on ripping 8 feet of 3/4" ply. Much improved.

Do you have a photo of the bottom of your attachemnt as well?

BTW, I received the Scheppach version of this saw last week and had the same issues as you regarding a bowed track and a non-flat saw base. The mfg has sent me replacement track and will follow up to see if the saw still moves around in the new track (I am sure that it will) then take the next steps...so far the customer service has been good...hopefully I can get all the quirks squared away without too much trouble.

[david brum]

Ole, your guard is much prettier. :)

As an aside, how is that Freud blade cutting? How does it do with tear out?

[Larry Prem]

My Grizzly T10687 has no play in the way it glides along the track. It works as I expect it to.
They seem to have some quality issues at the factory, judging from the wide range to review feedback.

http://www.hingmy.com/showthread.php?5013-Product-Thread-Grizzly-T10687-Track-Saw

[Ole Anderson]

Ole, your guard is much prettier. :)

As an aside, how is that Freud blade cutting? How does it do with tear out?

I just rounded the corners on my belt sander, gives it that vroom-vroom look.:cool:

As for the blade, it does fine but not perfect, I still get a tiny bit of tear out, but then I am cutting Hickory which tends to splinter and tear.

Here is a shot of the bottom of the guard. I glued the sole on, then added a couple of #6 hinge screws as an after thought, actually I was in too much of a hurry to wait for the glue to properly cure.

[Rick Fisher]

Funny .. I have 4 Festool routers, 2 x sanders and a domino.. I love the tools .. I never bought a track saw because I was always disappointed with the OF-1400 Router when used on a Festool track. Recently I purchased the Festool OF-2200 Router with the accessory for sliding tracks.. Same thing, its wobbly and unimpressive to me ..

At first I believed that there was something wrong with mine. I would adjust the screws to attempt to make a tighter fit, to reduce wobble.. And the result was a terrible squealing sound ... which still wobbled.. I was told to push the " wobble " out of the router when using.. ??? I dunno ..

So I figured the track saw would be the same .. kinda hokey .. I would be curious if it fits the track well or if its got lots of slop built in ?

[Chris Lloyd]

I've been looking into track saws for the last month as I'm always working alone and sheet stock and my TS make for an "interesting" time. From a budget standpoint I can swing a Scheppach, grab a Grizly, or put off a few other expenditures and wait for a Makita.

i don't do a ton of large sheet work, so I'm on the fence about spending more than I need to. I understand "buy once, cry once", but sometimes I tend to use that as an excuse to upsell myself, a habit I'm trying to break. Anyhow I had a question about the Makita and the Grizzly/Scheppach track. Can the Makita run on the Grizzly track? My thinking is that if I go the budget route and the saw dies, at least I could recoup some of the investment by reusing the track with a Makita.

I guess what I'm looking for is some reassurance that I can spend just over 200 for a Scheppach with 50" of track, another 55" of Grizzly track, and a new blade, and have a good product that will deliver glue ready joints... and not leave me needing to come up with the full price of a Makita shortly thereafter.

For those looking at the Grizzly/Scheppach, this is a great review/mod video that addresses most if its shortcomings. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vqqcmC5UY5E&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DvqqcmC5UY5E
I like how he repositions the anti friction strips to stabilize the saw. An alternative may be to just buy DeWalt's replacement strip and add it to the outside.

Also, does the anti-tilt attachment in the Grizzly accessory pack address the "wobble" issue noted in many reviews?

[Paul Wunder]

Yes it does

[John Schweikert]

Something else to consider when using saws and rails from different manufacturers is whether different rails can be joined for longer lengths. It's useful and less expensive than buying a really long rail which only has one purpose, really long cuts.

[Chris Lloyd]

Yes it does
Yes the Makita can use Grizzly tracks, or yes the anti-tilt doohickey stops the wobble?

Thanks,
Chris

[Paul Wunder]

Sorry, Chris. The anti-tilt doohicky does stop the wobble. It clips to the outside of the track and to the saw base.

[Keith Hankins]

Well first let me say I have the TS55 and I also own a lot of griz too(larger tools). I did a lot (and i'm anal about research) of research before buying. The other competition was not out so I had to justify the cost to myself. I wanted to replace my method of sheet break down. I used a long clampit strait edge and the PC 7 1/4" CS with a forrest WWI and it worked pretty good I must say. However after buying the TS55 with excellent DC, I never questioned the purchase again. Someone mentioned it growled. The motor does sound different but over the years it has never failed me and the stock blade is still on it. Cuts splinter free. I bought a strait rail long enough to do a full sheet of ply so i don't deal with the joints. I break my ply down on foam sheets on the floor. If the griz would have been out then, I probably would have considered it. I would also know I would have to fiddle with it as griz hand tools have that reputation. It's a shame they have a wobble on the base. I read that in another review as well. If you are just using it to rough break down of ply then that proably won't matter as you can touch it up on the TS to get that perfect angle. Mine was dead on smooth out of the box, and I use it on my MFT3 table to make perfectly square crosscuts every time (on all pieces not just ply)but you have to have that to trust it. I can see where at half the cost, would be appealing and trust me I thought long and hard before putting out that cash for the TS55. However, when averaged over the long haul, I still don't regret the festool purchase. Maybe after you have had it a few years your can do a follow-up and see how it stands up. I'd love to know. As I started with, I have both green tools Griz & Festool.

[Chris Lloyd]

No problem,

Thank you for clarifying it for me.

[Rick Potter]

Anybody know if Festool and my DeWalt take the same blade?

Rick Potter

[david brum]

Anybody know if Festool and my DeWalt take the same blade?

Yep. All of the track saws use 160mm diameter blades with 20mm arbor bores. Keep in mind that there will probably be slight kerf differences between blades, so you might have to replace the zero clearance strips on the track when you change blades.

[david brum]

My thinking is that if I go the budget route and the saw dies, at least I could recoup some of the investment by reusing the track with a Makita.

Chris, I don't think that will work. My understanding is that the Makita and Festool tracks are identical. Scott T Smith did a side by side comparison in February this year, with the Scheppach/Grizzly and Festool systems. He reported that the festool saw did not clear the edge of the Grizzly track and the Grizzly saw overhung the Festool track by 1/4". I imagine you'd get the same result trying to use a Makita saw on Grizzly track.

Having said that, there don't seem to be widespread reports about durability issues with this family of saws. I'm perfectly happy with mine and don't see why it won't hold up for years. After all, they're just circular saws with a fancy bases and dust shrouds.

[Chris Lloyd]

That's what I was thinking. Pretty sure I'll pull the trigger on the scheppach and a blade, see how I like it after addressing the wobble, then if all is good, buck up for another track section. I'll post up any observations etc after I get it and make the anti friction strip changes.

[Matt Radtke]

That's what I was thinking. Pretty sure I'll pull the trigger on the scheppach and a blade, see how I like it after addressing the wobble, then if all is good, buck up for another track section. I'll post up any observations etc after I get it and make the anti friction strip changes.

I snagged the scheppach when woot had a sale on them this summer. I had wobble problems, so I bought the Grizzly accessory kit--the anti tip dodad, while intended for bevels, works just fine to remove the wobble.

As a bonus, the scheppach comes with two 25" sections and one joining bar. Add the Grizzly kit and now you've got two.

[Ken Kortge]

274090
I'm a long-time happy EurekaZone track system user. I started using it because circular saws and I simply do not get along (to say it nicely) and I hated trying to cut down plywood using a table saw.

I have to say that I was pretty surprised when I first saw the flimsy single-layer tracks used by other companies. I think the picture says it all.

[Jay Park]

I'm a long-time happy EurekaZone track system user. I started using it because circular saws and I simply do not get along (to say it nicely) and I hated trying to cut down plywood using a table saw.

I have to say that I was pretty surprised when I first saw the flimsy single-layer tracks used by other companies. I think the picture says it all.

How is the dust collection w/ the eurekazone?

[Ken Kortge]

Dust collection was the farthest thing from my mind when I bought my EuekaZone tracks and saw ... but the saw I bought from EurekaZone did come with a dust collection fixture that simply hooks to my shop vacuum hose. Pretty simple.