Rotate your shelix inserts recently?

[Ian Radin]

After converting my jointer and planer to Byrd shelix (oh happy day) a few years back, I decided to finally rotate carbide inserts. Got out my hex key sets, inch wouldn't fit. Tried metric still no go. Looked closer, ah ha Torx. Found spare inserts, which came with heads, no driver, nuts. Looked through my loose collection of miscellaneous keys biggest one was T15, too small. Ventured out in Miami traffic unarmed. An hour and a half later I am home with a full set of Torx keys. Tried T25, sloppy fit, T30, too big. Arrgh. Couldn't face traffic so I mail ordered T27 (Shipping more than key). T27 too big! Arrgh squared. Whilst reflecting on unfairness of life, I took a closer look at screw heads, noted that the valleys were more rounded than standard Torx. Mail ordered T25 Torx Plus key, called IP25, ah perfect fit. The take away? First, unless you don't mind boogering up your insert screws with T25 (which is claimed to work), get an IP25 (Torx Plus) driver. Second, to efficiently navigate Miami traffic, it is best to drive a technical.

[Peter Quinn]

My heads bought from holbren both came with a mating screw driver and a 10 pack of inserts for future use, I have not needed either yet. After following several threads on another site concerning inset rotation affecting cut quality I gathered two things to be true. You have to clean the seats very well when rotating, and it is highly advisable to torque the nuts to a precise recommended value which presently escapes me. Over tightening may cause the inserts to flex and stand up leading to scalloped ridges on boards, under tightening may lead to similar valleys, only a few thousands mind you, but highly visible to the naked eye. Byrd has a torque driver for sale on their site at around $120 . I'm wondering what your experience is relative to cut quality post rotation? Scallops? No scallops? Is the torque screw driver really neccessary?

[Dave Cav]

Last year I cleaned and retorqued the inserts in my planers at home (PM180) and school (Delta DC580). Both have Byrd heads. I cleaned the insert seats wih a toothbrush, and I used the Torx bit from Byrd on a Harbor Freight 1/4" inch/lb torque wrench to snug them down. Cut seems a little better, plus I at least know they are all inspected and properly seated.

[larry senen]

"fat wrench" available @ gun stores is a cheaper option, you may already have one!

[Joe Shinall]

My Byrd Shelix head came with a screwdriver with an interchangeable torx bit with 2 spare bits and 10 extra cutters.

[Peter Quinn]

"fat wrench" available @ gun stores is a cheaper option, you may already have one!


Beats the heck out of this option......http://www.byrdtool.com/SHELIX%20accessories.html.....$175......OUCH!

[Mikail Khan]

One of my grizzly machines came with 5 torx inserts for the spiral head screws. The other came with 2 torx wrenches which were easily rounded off.

MK

[Jim Andrew]

I was going to turn the cutters on my Woodmaster, then I noticed some discoloration, and sprayed the cutters down with saw blade cleaner, used a tooth brush and scrubbed the cutters, dried the cutterhead off, and it was sharp again.

[Ian Radin]

Ok,here is what I found. Rotated planer (4 post 15 in. Jet) inserts. One row not at all tight, about a dozen other scattered around somewhat loose. They really didn't feel dull. Sprayed seat and insert with Rustlick(WD-40,LPS1 clone),blew off with air, Torqued to 50 in. lb. Big change, I remember when I first installed heads, how quiet they were. I hadn't noticed the noise creeping up. Quiet again and smooth. Minor snipe which had reared its ugly head-gone. Take it for what it's worth, but I really don't think a torque wrench is necessary (I just happened to have one). If all is clean and threads sprayed, just tighten as much as you can with screwdriver type driver. If you are strong you might reach 50 in. lb. Try hanging a gallon jug of water 6 in. out (on vise grips) from axis of screwdriver to feel what 50 in. lb. feels like. By the by, I bought my heads from Grizzly. I am still curious if T25 or T25plus. T25 a bit of slop, T25plus (IP25) absolutely snug.

[Mel Fulks]

I'm hearing more complaints about how long it takes to change out the inserts ,too. On to the next great thing!

[Michael Wildt]

Never hear of Torx plus so I found this on wiki pedia.

A Torx variant, Torx Plus, introduced about 1990 when the original Torx patent was expiring, is designed to allow greater torque, and to minimize wear. The specifications for these licenses are held by Textron. Standard Torx drivers can be used to drive Torx Plus screws, but not to full torque because of the loose fit. Torx Plus drivers will not fit into standard Torx screws. The name is shortened to Torx TX.

Good to know there is different ones so you do not harm the screws, thanks.

[Brian Gumpper]

I can confirm they are torx plus screws. All replacement heads should come with a 1/4" drive hand tool and proper bit. I some extra 1/4" drive bits, if you need one send me a PM and I'll mail you one.

I got a mailer from Harbor Freight, in pounds torque wrench plenty adequate for the job for $9.99 after coupon code.

[Wade Lippman]

I'm hearing more complaints about how long it takes to change out the inserts ,too. On to the next great thing!
Compared to changing our regular knives, 5 times as often, it is a walk in the park.