A good drum sander?

[Wade Lippman]

When I moved I sold all my tools. I have replaced everything but my drum sander.
About 5 years ago I bought a Jet 16/32. It worked well when it worked, though it could have used more power.
The real problem was that the clip that held the end of the sandpaper would slip, it would get loose and overlap. That would burn the wood and ruin the sand paper.

So...
Did I just get a lousy Jet, or is that a common problem?
Is there a better drum sander out there?

As much as I would love a bigger one, I think a 16/32 (or there abouts) is all I can justify.

[Greg Portland]

When I moved I sold all my tools. I have replaced everything but my drum sander.
About 5 years ago I bought a Jet 16/32. It worked well when it worked, though it could have used more power.
The real problem was that the clip that held the end of the sandpaper would slip, it would get loose and overlap. That would burn the wood and ruin the sand paper.

So...
Did I just get a lousy Jet, or is that a common problem?
Is there a better drum sander out there?

As much as I would love a bigger one, I think a 16/32 (or there abouts) is all I can justify.
I would look for a used Woodmaster. IMO it's a step above the Jet and uses velcro-backed paper (easy to swap out grits). I like the reverse feed switch and variable feed rate features.

If you're burning the wood then you're hogging off too much material (either too deep a setting or too fast a feed rate). If you're using a drum sander for dimensioning a work piece then you'll want to go VERY slowly.

[John TenEyck]

I'd go bigger, too. I bought a used Delta 18 x 36 (the made in USA version) and couldn't be happier. The sandpaper attachment clip is dead simple to use and I've never had any problems with the paper getting loose, etc. IMHO, used is the way to go if you can find one, especially if it was owned by a hobbiest; most just never put many hours on one. And, as mentioned, if you're getting burning when the paper is properly installed you are not using the machine as it was intended. These things are sanders, not planers. You can't take off more than about 0.010" in a pass, and that is pushing it. If that is not how you want to use one then get a more industrial machine.

John

[Wade Lippman]

I wasn't taking off too much.
As I said, the clip didn't hold the paper tightly, the paper would loosen, overlap, and the overlapped part would burn.

There is one drum sander on CL for all of upstate NY; the thing you put on a RAS. I don't think I am likely to find a decent used one.

[Jeff Monson]

I wasn't taking off too much.
As I said, the clip didn't hold the paper tightly, the paper would loosen, overlap, and the overlapped part would burn.



I had similar results until I learned how to properly tension the paper. It the tensioner is at the end of its travel you are asking for problems. I install the paper, turn the machine on for a few seconds and retention the paper making sure the tensioner still has travel to take up any slack. No problems since I started doing it this way. BTW, I have a 22-44pro and it has plenty of power.

[Jim Andrew]

I'm not familiar with drum sanders, priced new ones when I was considering getting one, and did not see any used ones during that time. So I bought the Grizzly small widebelt sander. Saw a post about a tiny Steel City brand, 3 hp that is selling on Amazon for 1859 with free shipping. Don't know if anybody makes the small belts, but Econabrasives makes custom size belts. Check out the belts before you get the machine, but looks like a very reasonably priced belt sander.

[Shawn Pixley]

I had similar results until I learned how to properly tension the paper. It the tensioner is at the end of its travel you are asking for problems. I install the paper, turn the machine on for a few seconds and retention the paper making sure the tensioner still has travel to take up any slack. No problems since I started doing it this way. BTW, I have a 22-44pro and it has plenty of power.

I'll echo Jeff's comments. There is a little learning curve. But once you get the technique down, it is a sweet little machine.

[Gilbert Vega]

I was using a Delta 18-36 until I came across a guy that was selling a Supermax 37x2 dual drum sander for $900. I spent another $300 to refurbish it and I am sure this will be the last sander I will ever buy. The 5 hp motor has all the power anyone could need, it automatically reduces the speed on the conveyor belt to keep from overloading the drive. The dual drum allows one to use two different grits to do speed up the sanding process. I couldn't afford the new price of $6000 but for what I paid, the money was well worth it.

[William C Rogers]

I have the Supermax 19-38 and I am happy with it. It has some very nice improvements. I have done what Jeff does from the start and have not had any problem. I did have one wrap of very heavy paper that is very hard to tension. It comes with a 1 3/4 hp motor that has enough power. It is also all steel.

[Mike Cutler]

Of course there are better drum sanders out there, but that Jet is a nice little package.
I used to have the Performax 16-32 and sold it when I got a 26" dual drum sander, and I've always regretted selling that 16-32. Your problem with the clip is just as others have stated. Make sure the clip is applying tension in the middle of it's travel. run the sander a bit, and retighten.
Burning the paper doesn't ruin it. Take the burnt rolls and drop them in a 5 gallon bucket of a strong Simple Green solution overnite, and clean them with a BBQ brush, and the edge of a board, acting as a chisel, the next day. Don't worry about the Simple Green causing the abrasive to come off. I once left the rolls in the bucket of Simple Green through the winter, yep a couple of months of freezing temps, and they cleaned up really easy.:p

[Carl Beckett]

I have owned a Performax 16-32.

And a Grizzly dual drum. (large footprint, but much better than the Performax) Used hook and loop paper.

And now a Reliant 13" "wide belt' sander. Very similar to the Performax overarm concept but a belt, not a drum. If you can find one of these Reliants (or something like it), I would highly recommend it over the small drums.

[Carl Beckett]

btw - there were two different CL ads for small Sunhill/Grizzly widebelts in my area, ranging from $1400 to $2000 each. I would pick something like this over the dual drum. The $2000 one was mint condition.

[Jeff Monson]

Burning the paper doesn't ruin it. Take the burnt rolls and drop them in a 5 gallon bucket of a strong Simple Green solution overnite, and clean them with a BBQ brush, and the edge of a board, acting as a chisel, the next day. Don't worry about the Simple Green causing the abrasive to come off. I once left the rolls in the bucket of Simple Green through the winter, yep a couple of months of freezing temps, and they cleaned up really easy.:p

I learned something new and useful today, thanks for the tip Mike.

[Paul Gilbert]

If you go with the Jet, don't get the osculating model. I have the 22-44 osculating model which just broke the coupling between the motor and the drum. When I dissembled the machine I found almost half of the bolts had no loctite on the threads. The whole coupling design looks like it came from Africa. The Jet non-osculating model has a flex coupling, but in the osculating model there is no provision that I see to allow for slight misalignment.

[Chris Padilla]

I picked up a used Delta 18-36 off of CL for $500 a few years ago specifically to do veneer sanding. I spent a good weekend cleaning it up and playing with it and learning its ins and outs and various nuances. I've never had a problem with the sandpaper coming loose off the drum so that works pretty well. The main annoying thing with the Delta is the "tracking" or "feeding" belt (sandpaper if you will) that pushes the wood through the machine: it eventually walks itself off the rollers and I have to loosen a few things and slide it back over. Rinse. Repeat. I've yet to figure out the "magic" tension needed to keep it in one spot. Otherwise, it did a magnificent job on the shop-cut walnut veneers. It was slow, boring, mind-numbing work sanding a dozen veneers but the results were fantastic and they all came out dead-nuts on at 1/16".

[Chris Padilla]

Burning the paper doesn't ruin it. Take the burnt rolls and drop them in a 5 gallon bucket of a strong Simple Green solution overnite....

Nice! I'll have to try that.

[Mike Cutler]

Chris and Jeff.

It's a little tedious, but you can actually clean them up pretty well, most times. Padauk and bubinga are really nasty to clean off, and so far I've had limited success with ebonies. Cocobolo, forget it!
If you're going to run oily tropicals through your sander, have a can of acetone and some rags with you. Wipe, sand, wipe, sand,,,,,

[Rick Potter]

Made the mistake once of sending through some pine with pitchy knots. Saved the paper, but spent a couple hours cleaning it. Never again.

Rick Potter

[Thomas L. Miller]

Wade,
I have a Jet 22-44 pro like Jeff. Making sure the traveler has room to tension is key. I haven't had issues with power using my machine. The first drum sander I used was a Powermax 18-36. The 3hp 22-44 compares to a good cabinet saw rated against a bench top saw. If you can find one or can afford to spend the extra money, I'd say go with the more powerful machine.
Tom