Order of steps with glazing

[Alan Lightstone]

I have a cherry sofa table that I am working on. I need it to match a pre-existing piece that is fairly dark cherry.

My game plan was, after a few coats of dye to add some redness, to use glaze to fine tune the color (get it darker).

I understand that thin coats of glaze are important, both for adhesion of subsequent top coats, and to avoid looking muddy.

Do you need to follow each coat of glaze with something like a thin coat of lacquer or shellac to seal it in, or do you just put on several coats until the color is right, and then top coat?

I haven't yet decided if the top coat will be multiple wiped on coats of Waterlox, or some sprayed on EM6000.

Thanks in advance, as always.

[Prashun Patel]

Alan-
I'm going through this right now with a maple media console. I am using an oil-based gel stain as the glaze.
I find that if you do not give a LOT of time for the stain to dry, then wiping on successive glaze coats - or an oil-based topcoat - will move the glaze around and remove it. It's really just sitting on the top of the sealed surface, so it's pretty easy to remove it.

Spraying thin top coats in between worked best for me.

Also, if you are relying on the glaze to darken the color overall, I think you may end up with a muddier end result. I found that glazing more than once or twice didn't look good for me. What you might try instead is adding dye to your EM6000 or shellac, and toning as you seal. A final glazing can give the piece 'layers' that look rich and antique, but if you are really trying to color match, then toning may be a better option...

[Alan Lightstone]

Thanks Prashun. I'll try the glaze once, then toner to desired color approach.

[Todd Burch]

I use ML Campbell products, and they have a specific order of steps to follow when incorporating glaze into a finish, and IIRC, their glaze gets sandwiched between two layers of vinyl sealer.

I would check with whoever makes the material (stain, dye, glaze, topcoat) you will be using and ask them what their finishes require to not lift, chip, crack, fade or peel.

Todd

[Prashun Patel]

Sorry. Others may have done it differently, but i tone before glazing.

[Scott Holmes]

I too tone before glazing. Many times after toning there is no reason to glaze other than the layered antique look.

[Pete McMahon]

Personally, I find glazing prior to toning far more forgiving. If the color is incorrect, simply wipe the glaze off the sealed surface. If the toning is incorrect...........your job just became more interesting. I'll tone if and when I want to augment the final look. Different strokes.

[Chris Padilla]

Not to pile on here but I, too, tone before glazing. I normally tone with clear shellac and Transtint added and then be patient and spray very thin coats to build up the color you want.

[Pete McMahon]

Not to pile on here but I, too, tone before glazing. I normally tone with clear shellac and Transtint added and then be patient and spray very thin coats to build up the color you want.

Chris, you're not piling on. A question for you concerning being patient and spraying very thin coats to get color. What happens if you can't get to the color you want? Do you keep spraying or settle for what you see? What determines "the color I want?" I have to work off of models or photos when color matching. How about you, what do you use? The other question is are you adept at proper glazing techniques? It's not just used to push into corners for aging simulation.

[Todd Burch]

I no longer have the pictures, but this thread summarizes the process I use. It's quite involved.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?9718-Study-Progress-Pictuers-Ceiling-is-about-done

[Scott Holmes]

It's not just used to push into corners for aging simulation.

Excellent point Pete, I didn't mean that's all it's good for.. Thanks for catching my vague statement.

[Pete McMahon]

It's not just used to push into corners for aging simulation.

Excellent point Pete, I didn't mean that's all it's good for.. Thanks for catching my vague statement.

Not vague at all Scott. You know the old saying (about glazes and toners) the end justifies the means. As long as you get to where you're going and your client or more importantly your wife is happy....everything's good.

[Alan Lightstone]

I no longer have the pictures, but this thread summarizes the process I use. It's quite involved.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?9718-Study-Progress-Pictuers-Ceiling-is-about-done

It's killing me not seeing the photos, considering all the praise of your work, Todd.

Soaking this all in. I'm trying to figure out what combination of Transtint dyes to combine to tone to the matching cherry color of the other cherry piece I'm trying to match.