Gouge sharpening gauges

[art pfenn]

Has anone tried these sharpening gauges? If so what do you think about them?

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/5/-/21/95/-/2919/Henry-Taylor-Profile-Pro%25E2%2584%25A2-Set-Up-Tool-Combo-Pack

[Steve Mawson]

I have not tried these but from looking at them I would look for another option. Reed Gray has a table with specific angles that can be selected. Looks to me like that would be a better option. Just my opinion, consider it worth what you paid for it.:o

[Jim Burr]

Seems like a ton of $$ for an estimation guide. Many people use grinds that work for them based on their style and type of turnings. There are cheaper alternatives.
Here's one...I use the aluminum version; http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/5/-/19/87/-/2653/Teknatool-Nova-10-in-1-Gauge (http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/5/-/19/87/-/2653/Teknatool-Nova-10-in-1-Gauge)

[charlie knighton]

til you figure out the angles and distance from grinder you will attempt many things , they are pricely but you could work backwards from the profile of those examples, i do not see where you are from, but if you make the symposium in tampa this summer Glenn Lucas is going to do a rotation titled
bowl and spindle gouge - sharpening & shavings . looks like the subject will be demostrated twice during the weekend. i find it something with a lot of opinions and confusing subject, but well worth others opinion.....hope you find something that works for you, thats the important thing

[Jeff Gilfor]

These are designed (as you likely already know) to give the user a "model" to shoot for in sharpening. As for angle setting, they should work just fine. No better than using the existing angle on a gouge you already have and like how it cuts. Of course, since these models are not being used and reground, they never change like a real gouge will.

Robo Hippy's platform is fantastic for platform sharpening. Looks to be the best thing out there along those lines. I have, and have been using for some time, a Stuart Batty angle setting gage. Works well, and isn't expensive. You can check it out online. If I hadn't already modified my sharpening platform myself, I would have gotten Robo's.

As for jig sharpening gouges (such as with the varigrind), you would be best watching some videos, getting some pointers from the local AAW chapter folks, or taking a class at Woodcraft. These model gouge shapes CAN be useful, but they are just "for show" so to speak.

I find that, over time, everyone plays with different shaped grinds. You'll find the one's you like the most. None are truly better than others. It's just that different applications REQUIRE different shaped cutting edges. For instance, I use a modified Irish ground gouge (at 45 degrees) for most of my outside and finishing work on bowls, boxes, and vessels. I use a classical ground less acute angle (about 65 degrees) for shallow hollowing (to about 4 inches) and inside bowl work. Next month, I may decide to change.

[Thom Sturgill]

Art, I have a set - haven't used them in years. When I started turning I would set the wolverine arm by eye by trying to match the angle of the gouge I was sharpening - I was always off just a hair which did not seem to matter until the error progressed to where gouge was unusable and then I had a more experienced turner re-grind them for me.

Then I bought those to give me a reference that did not change. Later I discovered the Raptor setup tools and used them for even more consistent grinds. Now that I have a CBN wheel that does not wear down, I have marks on the wolverine arm to return it to a set position for each angle I use.

A setup tool can be easily created by cutting a piece of thin plywood or masonite to shape, and patterns are available on the web. I think they work better than the samples you referenced.

[art pfenn]

Art, I have a set - haven't used them in years. When I started turning I would set the wolverine arm by eye by trying to match the angle of the gouge I was sharpening - I was always off just a hair which did not seem to matter until the error progressed to where gouge was unusable and then I had a more experienced turner re-grind them for me.

Then I bought those to give me a reference that did not change. Later I discovered the Raptor setup tools and used them for even more consistent grinds. Now that I have a CBN wheel that does not wear down, I have marks on the wolverine arm to return it to a set position for each angle I use.

A setup tool can be easily created by cutting a piece of thin plywood or masonite to shape, and patterns are available on the web. I think they work better than the samples you referenced.
That is my problem I have sharpened them trying to get an angle and now they won't cut at all. I too have a CBN wheel which does a great job but I just grind the wrong shape. Any suggestions to where I could find a template on line to copy?

[Greg Just]

there are a number of good videos on YouTube regarding sharpening. You could start with this one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ljhd_WbAOw

[Thom Sturgill]

That is my problem I have sharpened them trying to get an angle and now they won't cut at all. I too have a CBN wheel which does a great job but I just grind the wrong shape. Any suggestions to where I could find a template on line to copy?


If you are a member of AAW they have a pdf you can download here (http://www.woodturner.org/community/fundamentals/sharpening/sharpening_demyst.pdf)

Take a piece of plywood/masonite/plastic/etc about 9" tall x 5 1/2" for 40 degree, 5 7/8" for 45 degree, or 6 1/2" for 50 degree. Notch the lower right side 2" x 1/2" to set in the pocket and notch the lower left corner about 5/8" to clear the wheel guard. Make sure to round the lower right corner to clear the weld in the pocket of the wolverine arm. The gauge should set tight in the pocket and touch the face of the wheel. Since you have a CBN, once you have the right angle, just mark the arm.

[Richard Jones]

I can't answer your question, but the Kirk DeHeer article that Thom linked is a good one. I've been using the same two pieces of plywood for bowl and spindle gouges for years. They look like this:

258040

Marking the arm, as Thom stated, will work as well on a CBN wheel, I just haven't decided how yet.

[charlie knighton]

the wolverine arm holder thingie is set at 23 degrees per DeHeer

+1

[Reed Gray]

I think one difficult concept to get into your mind when sharpening is to figure out what your nose profile will look like when you sharpen. This is where you place the gouge upside down on the platform, or just directly on the wheel and grind down the flutes a tiny bit. No sweep (square like spindle roughing gouge), minimal sweep (continental/German/broad sweep gouge), fingernail, or swept back. This shows you the shape you will end up with. So, the more V shaped your flutes are, the more pointy the nose profile will be. The more open the flute design, the more rounded the nose profile will be. You can't sharpen a V gouge to a round nose, and you can't sharpen a U gouge to a point, well at least not if you want them to cut.

robo hippy

[Timothy Mann]

I use the raptors and like them just fine. But when I can get the money I will be ordering Reed Grays system, I have watched the Youtube vids and seems like just what I need.