European motor plate translation

[Chris Lee]

can someone help me read this italian motor plate? I get the basic hertz, amps, kilowatts, i assume GIRI/min is the rpm. But i am not sure of the rest ans cant seem to find anything online to break it down for me. What do the following translate to NEMA:
uF 40
cos 088
IP 54
POLI 2
cv. 2.4
%68

if anyone can help me understand how these relate to NEMA i would appreciate it. Thanks

[Rod Sheridan]

C.V = HP or 2.4 HP/1.8Kw

Poli = poles, it's a 2 pole machine

uF 40 = capacitor is 40 microfarads

Cos 088 = Power Factor = 0.88

rated speed =3,300 RPM

s1 = continuous duty

Regards, Rod.

P.S. Forgot IP54 = Nema 3S

[Erik Loza]

How interesting: An actual 220V (as opposed to 230V...), 60Hz Italian motor. Not something you see every day. Chris, is this off that Bridgewood saw?

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Chris Lee]

Hey Erik,

It is off that Bridgewood saw, which I hope to have in my shop on Saturday! As the motor was rebuilt and not new, i was trying to get some info on the motor as I have to aquire a switch and wasnt sure where to start so I figured teh more I knew anout the motor the better. Plus, I may get everything running upgrade to a larger 4 or 5hp motor. I guess it will depend on how this motor does once i get it running?

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Chris, I forgot to mention that the efficiency is 68% as stated on the nameplate.

That motor doesn't state on the nameplate that it has built in thermal overload protection, so unless you can confirm otherwise you'll need a starter with thermal overload protection for your saw.

I would expect that this motor would work well with the saw, 1.8Kw is reasonable for a band saw.............Regards, Rod.

[Erik Loza]

Yea, Chris, just try it out and see how it works. It might be fine for your needs. Good luck, I hope the sale works out.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Chris Lee]

Thanks for all the info Rod. So I need a switch with thermal overload protection? I have tried to look around, but everything I see just doesnt seem like what Ive had on my past saws or other heavy tools. Do you know of any sites or have an example of what I should be looking for? I know I'm asking a lot :o) Are we talking about a standard 220V Magnetic starter switch or is there more to it here?

[Matt Meiser]

Something like: http://www.factorymation.com/Products/WEG_Single_Phase_Enclosed_MMS/

[Chris Lee]

So something like this would work?

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4153-Phase-3-Horsepower-Switch/dp/B005W17G3Q/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1

i always go amazon if i can. super easy returns if I order the wrong thing!

[Mike Henderson]

I'm not sure exactly what some of the fields mean but let me assume that the 1.8KW field represents the maximum power output of the motor. If the efficiency is 68%, the amount of power going into heat would be about 850 Watts. That's a lot of heat.

I was under the impression that motors in the 2 to 2.5HP range were generally much more efficient, perhaps close to 90% efficient.

Or does the 1.8KW field represent something other than shaft power?

Mike

[Rod Sheridan]

No Mike, you're correct, that's 850 watts of waste heat

Note that it has a reasonably high power factor.

For quick guesstimates in single phase I use .8PF, n=80% so yes the 68% is a bit low.............Rod.

[Rod Sheridan]

So something like this would work?

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4153-Phase-3-Horsepower-Switch/dp/B005W17G3Q/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1

i always go amazon if i can. super easy returns if I order the wrong thing!

Hi, that would be suitable except that it is only adjustable from 17 to 24 amperes, you need one that's adjustable to 13.4 amperes, which is the current rating of your motor.......Rod.

[Chris Lee]

ok thanks Rod. Let me see what I can find. Everything seems to stop at 12A for a 2 hp motor or start at 17A for a 3hp motor. This being in between the switches all seem to be on one side or the other. May have to spend a little more on this switch then i hoped for to find one that falls in the range I need.

[Mike Heidrick]

Is this a single phase or 3 phase motor? That plate/specs do not say how many phases.


These will work for the amp range. Under $30 plus you will need momentary power buttons.

http://www.factorymation.com/Products/CU-16-I6.html

http://www.factorymation.com/Products/RHU-10F-16A.html

[Erik Loza]

Mike, it must be single-phase because it calls out a Microfarad rating and Uf (Microfarads) are used in reference to a capacitor, which only single-phase motors use. I agree, though: Odd not to see the "1˜" there.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Chris Lee]

Thanks Mike. Would i need to buy an enclosure for these? Ive never seen anything like these without an enclosure? Am i missing something? Thanks for the help!

[Rod Sheridan]

http://www.factorymation.com/Products/PESWS-18V24AX-RM32.html

Chris, here's the model you need, c/w an enclosure and stop/start buttons..............Rod.

[Rod Sheridan]

Mike, top right hand corner of the nameplate states it's an asychronous single phase motor, in other words single phase induction motor......Rod.

[Mike Heidrick]

Thanks Rod.

Chris, Rod linked up the all in one switch box. What I linked are two of the components. You mount them in an enclosure wherever you want and then put the switch buttons wherever you need them. I mount the components on 35mm DIN rail in my CNC enclosures. I put the buttons on top of the enclosures but you could mount them wherever you want. You can get diiferent types of momentary buttons and get them illuminated etc. The rubber covered oval is the start and stop lighted switch assembly. Estops are left and right. One is a disable for the controller and the other kills power. There is also a through door disconnect that requires the power to be disconnected before opening the enclosure. Fans, power supplies, relays, fuse, and terminal blocks are also in the box. It was also wired to software auto start the router used as a cnc spindle via the relay and the CNC controller (Gecko G540).

For a simple single phase saw setup all you need are momentary power buttons somewhere, and wire those to the contactor, over load and any disconnects. Piecing them out would allow you to hide all the wiring and flush mount the switches. Will you have door estops or a foot brake on your saw?

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e169/BloomingtonMike/Cast%20CNC/box3.jpg

[Mike Heidrick]

Here is a better picture of the rail and a contactor and other parts.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e169/BloomingtonMike/cast%20spindle/PC153982.jpg