Help Me Profile a Table Leaf Edge

[Todd Willhoit]

I am building two oversized table leaves for a friend. I found a Whiteside window sill profile that nearly matches the original leaves. My dilemma is in deciding the best method to profile the edge. The table is 43" wide, and the leaves will be 36" wide, so I will be handling a 4'x3' panel.

Option 1:
Hoss it around on my router table. I am leery of this option, as I am not sure I can keep it from tilting or lifting and destroying the profile.

Option 2:
Build an offset base and fence for my handheld router.

Option 2 seem to be the lowest risk option. What would you do?

Todd

[johnny means]

You should be able to profile an edge like that with just yoyr regular ol hand held in whatever base us available. Do a near depth cut then follow up with a shallow cut.

[Todd Willhoit]

Here is a link to the bit:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2008140/6506/whiteside-6046-window-sill-edgefinger-pull-router-bit-38-r-x-1716-d-x-118-cl-x-338-ol.aspx

As you can see, there is no guide bearing, so a fence of some sort is required.

[Steve Kohn]

I had the same problem when I built my kitchen table. My customer (SWMBO) wanted that same profile. I finally found that I had something very similiar in a molding set I had bought several years ago at the WW show. It was for base molding and I was able to use just part of it for the desired profile. Unfortunately I just looked and there is no manufacturers name or any kind of number on the set or individual bit. However, if it helps the bits are deep blue in color. I know the company that made the molding set are still sending my catalogs, I just can't find one now.

Note that the bearing is on what becomes the top of the table/leaf. So you have to do your routing upside down.

The table turned out so well I got commissioned to make a changing table using the same profile for the top.

[Richard Coers]

Wow, I thought storing a 12" leaf was a problem, those 36" wide are going to be a bear! I'd also be worried about them cupping or twisting while sitting upright in the closet. You could clamp a straight edge on the leaf, and run the base of the router against it. No fence needed. I would also add some extra width, or clamp on scrap stock as you will get a little chip out when you exit the cut.

[glenn bradley]

I agree that free hand routing with a template guide would be OK. I too prefer the stability of an offset base and have one for several of my routers. If your bit is a "standard" diameter, you can add a top bearing and collar if you prefer that to a template collar. Either way a template will probably be involved to assure accuracy of depth and smoothness of cut to minimize sanding. I would double-stick tape a 1/4" or 1/2" MDF template to the piece to be milled and use a bearing but, I have a collection of various bearings and collars for just such occasions. I find them easier than fiddling with the offset required by PC-style collars on curves. The offset is a no brainer on straight lines so that may work for your requirement but, when you have to reduce a complex curve, it draws on parts of the brain that I have little of :D

[Rod Sheridan]

Being a shaper owner, I vote for the router table.

Make a sawhorse extension that's exactly the same height as your router table to support the outboard edge.

Make a hold down, that holds the top tight against the table, then rout your profile.........Rod.

[Todd Willhoit]

Thanks for all of the great suggestions!

I realized that I used the term "fence" for option 2, but what I meant was an offset base and edge guide. I built an offset base yesterday. Another possible pitfall is the plunge mechanism loosening and moving vertically. Maybe I am over thinking it.

@Richard
I like the straight edge idea. My offset base is rectangular, so it could easily ride against the straight edge.
The table is from a now defunct UK company called Esse Furniture Ltd. It was originally available with five, 24" leaves. They purchased two leaves at the time but would like the ability to get the full capacity. I'm glad he settled on 36". The original idea was 60". :eek:

@Glenn
I had not thought about adding a bearing. B18 would work with the bit, but I would have to chase one down. I certainly wouldn't have to worry about keeping the base in a particular orientation.

@Rod
I have a shaper too, but no tooling. My router table top is large (too large). If I turn the fence front to back, only half of the material would hang over. With a hold down, it might be the way to go.