removing rust from jointer

[joe maday]

I have been looking at an 8" jointer,USA, used and the surfaces are rusty, does not appear to be deeply pitted or corroded, Probably able to use sandpaper to remove, too heavy for steel wool... My question or concern is that after cleaning the infeed, outfeed tables and the fence... the acuracy would be lost....sanding does remove metal.....Given The purchase price ( 500.00 ) plus the work Should I just buy a new grizzly 8" (warrant vs no warranty)? I would look at the grizzly wedge bed designs because of the shorter length, fits my space better.
Any Thoughts?

[Bill White]

I have used a wide blade scraper on heavy rust with success.
Don't know what jointing jobs ya regularly perform, but short bed jointers can have some "shortcomings". No pun intended. :)
I would not think that rust removal would have a major effect on the machine.
Other than the rust, is the jointer in good working order?
Bill

[Andrew Fleck]

I wouldn't be concerned about any accuracy loss from light rust. A green scratch pad and WD-40 usually clean things up nicely for me. If there is still some stubborn rust left I use 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and WD-40 to clean it up.

[Doug Richardson]

I may be totally off base, but unless the rust is far worse than you indicated, I can't imagine it would affect the quality of your finished product. Unless, of course, you use micrometers and calipers instead of rulers in your construction projects. On the other hand, I personally would probably use it as a good excuse to purchase a new Grizzly myself..... if I hadn't already..... Lol!

I was left with some of my fathers power tools (circa 40's 50's), and they were in a rather worn condition. I could just write off that old King-Seeley band saw, but I actually enjoyed rebuilding it and bringing it back to "like new" condition. I guess there is some nostalgia there for me, knowing my father built many an item with it, and he left us over 30 years ago.

But enough warm and fuzzy talk. If only the top requires cleanup, try and talk him down in price some. If it's rusty all over, go for the Grizzly.....

[Myk Rian]

]Bar Keepers Friend mixed with a little water to make a paste.
Scrape it with a razor blade to get most of the rust off. then scrub the BKF into it.
You don't need a shiny polished surface, just a clean one.
After cleaning, I wipe it down with alcohol, slather on furniture paste wax, (no silicone) melt it with a heat gun, and buff it.

I have a 1938 Wallace jointer that was pitted from rust. They don't affect the accuracy of the jointer one bit.

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[Stephen Cherry]

]Bar Keepers Friend mixed with a little water to make a paste.
Scrape it with a razor blade to get most of the rust off. then scrub the BKF into it.
You don't need a shiny polished surface, just a clean one.
After cleaning, I wipe it down with alcohol, slather on furniture paste wax, (no silicone) melt it with a heat gun, and buff it.



That's how I have done it. I let the bar keepers friend soak in a little, then scrape with a razor. Soak, than scrub with a scotchbrite pad. Don't let it dry. A spray bottle with water helps to keep it moist.

One thing to remember, the low spots don't hurt anything but your pride. I would not use sandpaper.

[Michael Dunn]

What brand is it? You said USA. Does that just mean its made in the USA or is that a brand I've yet to hear of? Either way, with that much rust you should be able to talk him down. I is it bought a nice used Bridgewood 8" jointer. Listed for $500. Offered $360. Also bought W-718 for $700 so at the end of the day I paid $300 for the 8" jointer.

As for rust removal. Honestly, I've always used sandpaper. I start at 60, 80, 120, 180, 220, 400, steel wool, 2000. Wiping with mineral spirits in between. Just use common sense and keep the sander moving and flat. I've yet to ruin a CI top with this method.

Before... Kind of a bad pic, I know.


After...


The. I cover with T9 Boeshield. Buff. Then cover with Bostik Top Cote to keep it slick.

[Dave Cav]

WD40 and a single edge razor blade scraper. Change the razor blade sooner rather than later. Finish with skotchbrite, paste wax to taste, go back to work.

[Bill Space]

Buy the Grizzly!

You will be paying about 50% of the price of the new Grizzly. You will have to work to get that jointer into shape. You will not know if the motor is in great condition or soon to fail (probably won't know)

It is probably a dovetail type table movement, which is more difficult to align than a parallelogram style you likely would buy from Grizzly (easier to set up, consider one anyway).

Plus you have a year warranty to give time to work out issues should you have any with the Grizzly...

I would buy the Grizzly. "He who leaves his tools rust probably did not take very good care of them before they rusted..."

Did I mention I think you should buy a Grizzly? :)

Bill

[Myk Rian]

You will have to work to get that jointer into shape.
I've restored 3 jointers. They are the easiest to do of all the machine tools.

[joe maday]

It is a powermatic 8" jointer, green color, I do not know how old it is ....It does have sometype of "bar" attached to the blade guard. It has not been used for years..no budging on price so I will wait for some time to pass and offer 300.00. meantime I'll be happy with my 6" tiawaneese powermatic. Thanks for all the replies.