Need advice on cutting a small log

[Glen Blanchard]

Yesterday I acquired a few locally harvested logs. Most of these range in diameter from 6" to 8" and approx. 8" in length. I would like to be able to turn some vessels out of some of these, bowls out of the others. Here is where I need some input.

If I were to cut them into blanks, removing the pith, there would not be much to work with. Can I turn these in such a way as to leave the pith on the foot without the piece cracking to the extent that it becomes firewood? If so, can I merely anchorseal the ends of these logs until I am ready to turn them (whenever that might be)? This will be my first experience using something other than store bought blanks so I could use some guidance.

Thanks.

[Glenn Samuels]

Hi Glenn,

I am also a novice and this is what I did (for better or worse). Once I rec'd the logs, I coated both ends with Anchorseal. Then, as I cut a log in half, I coated all exposed areas with the Anchorseal. This way, I can wait as long as I'd like before roughing out the log and hopefully the checking will be minimal. I am anxous to hear if this is a correct method.

[Michael Mills]

If they were longer you can often keep them losing only a few inches at each end; for these you are starting with 8” length to begin with. I would split through the pith and coat the ends with anchorseal. I do not coat the cut side other than about an inch down from the ends.
You will be able to turn bowls up to probably seven inches wide, smaller vessels about 3.5 diameter or boxes in the 2-2.5 range.
Someone else probably has other ideas or knows procedures to turn vessels with the pith and stop the pith from splitting.
I've never been able to do it.

[Thom Sturgill]

For a spherical vessel, turn green such that the pith is balanced on the sides. Turn even wall thickness no greater than 1/4", and thinner is better. Place in a dry place with no air movement to finish drying. The shrinkage will cause the pith to push out creating a football shape (not that extreme), but should remain intact if the work is balanced. I did this last summer with a piece of rosewood when our club had David Ellsworth for a demo and hand-on workshop.

[Jon McElwain]

I turned several elm pots a while back from 6+ inch diameter logs. I kept the pith in and as Thom stated, the shrinkage created an oblong form. Thin walls helps minimize the checking. I was going for some warpage and I was not disappointed. Here's the thread...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?177783-Elm-Pot&highlight=

[Dan Forman]

Without removing the pith, the logs, even when anchor sealed, are likely to check over time, depending on the wood (fruitwoods are more likely to check than some others). A lot will depend on the wood, the humidity, heat, conditions under which they are stored. I try to keep my wood under plastic tarps to help hold moisture in, which seems to help, but there are still time limits, even when de-pithed.

Dan

[Steve Peterson]

I have done a few practice bowls on oak logs in that size range. Usually, they are slightly oval in shape. That gives you 2 choices in which direction to cut through the pith. You can cut the short direction and get a slightly taller bowl or the long direction and get more of a platter. If there is a crack already starting, then cut through the crack.

I have never anchorsealed, because they are just practice bowls on what is essentially firewood. Roughing them out is easy. The real work comes later after they have dried hard as a rock. If they are split, you are not out much effort.

If you need to prep them as logs to be roughed out later, then I think you should at least cut through the pith. Anchorseal slows down the drying, but does not stop it. Cut them in half and seal the ends might let them dry with minimal cracking. You may still lose a few inches on each end.

Steve

[Jonathan Clement]

You can find plans on the internet for making small log sleds to use on a band saw. My wife gave me a Carteer Accuright Log Sled which I have used to mill pieces of firewood and small logs. The attached photos show the cutting of a piece of curly birch that I found in our stack of firewood. You can cut two right angle surfaces and then use the re-saw fence to cut pieces of various thicknesses. I made a bunch of pen blanks from this piece as well as the base of a desk set with clock and pen.
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[David Reed]

A while back I turned a hollow form from a log in the round end grain. I turned it green the turned out the pith in the bottom, hollowed through it on top. Dried OK and returned using the bottom hole as a recess for the chuck. Then made a plug for the bottom which was not visible unless picked up. Never cracked. Sorry, no pics. Not as suitable for bowls.
David

Western Red Cedar log