Lets talk clamps

[Mike Holbrook]

I was amazed at how few post I found searching this topic. We know we can't have too many clamps right? Yet I find lots of posts and pictures of all the hand saw, plane...collections people have but very little on this very basic tool. There are so many options available it can be a little baffling. So I thought I would see if we could collect some comments and pictures of peoples clamps and clamp storage. I want ot update my clamp collection and find a better way to store them as well. My clamps are currently hanging on hooks in StoreWall (heavier duty pegboard). I am a little worried about the weight of all those clamps damaging my StoreWall.

I am about to build a bench, if my hands ever heal. I have a dozen or more of various types of quick 24" clamps. I find that I only have 6 longer clamps (36-48"): 4 Besseys & 2 old heavy bar clamps that my grandmother had. I plan to add a few more longer clamps, long enough for gluing up a workbench top (mine will be between 24-30") and cabinet construction. I am interested in hearing what kinds of clamps others like and why. I like my grandmothers old bar clamps and I see Lee Valley has similar clamps made of aluminum. The only issue I see with bar clamps is their short reach.

[glenn bradley]

I did a google search of SMC with the word 'clamps' and got 10,000 hits. I was up to page 9 and still had not run out of hits directly from SMC(???). I never bother with the internal search engine as it is a known loser. Just go to google
and type 'clamps site:sawmillcreek.org'. You'll get much better results.

Clamps are numerous and sometimes seem to be self replicating ;-) The preferred clamp will be as different as the woodworker. I bought a load of f-style clamps and pipe clamps early on but now hardly ever use either. They have their place and I do use them but, probably less than 10% of the time with the exception of the little 4" Bessey mighty-minis which are good for all sorts of things. My most used clamp is the Bessey Uni-Klamp for doors, drawers, frames, boxes, wall cabinets, blah, blah, blah. K-Body clamps for almost everything else.

Other clamps I'm glad I have:
- deep f-style clamps for when you need some reach
- edge clamps for trim or face frames
- $1, 2" spring clamps from Home Depot for holding light things like trim
- bowed cauls

Other clamps I don't use near as much as I thought I would:
- Quick-Grip clamps (great as a third hand but, unreliable over time so, their out for glue-ups but great for holding something temporarily).
- Corner clamps (a good idea but, with a bit of practice they are pretty much unnecessary for me).
- Pipe clamps and deep pipe clamps (when you need one, there's no substitute but, I need them about once every 2 years, YMMV).
- 4-way clamps (they do what they are supposed to but again, after a bit of practice they just take up room).
- Face Frame clamps (turns out I just don't do that sort of work).
- Picture frame clamps (I've tried a bunch of variations and the fact is that if your miters are cut true, any clamp will do).

Obviously anyone who makes things slightly different than I do or in a different way than I do (read almost everybody) will have a different opinion as to what is valuable and what is a dust-catcher as far as clamps go. Your needs will vary with what you do. Wait till you have the need and then you will know what clamp(s) you want to meet that need. Most of all, have fun.

[Mike Henderson]

You can get Jorgensen I-beam clamps (http://www.amazon.com/Jorgensen-7272-72-I-Bar-Clamp/dp/B0000224CK/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1363217352&sr=1-1&keywords=jorgensen+72%22+clamps) 6 feet long. While they are strong and you can put a lot of pressure with them, they are HEAVY which is why many other manufacturers use aluminum. If you do a big clamping job with those I-beam clamps, you'll have trouble moving it.

Beyond that, there hasn't been much new in clamps in a while. I have a whole bunch of Bessey clamps and have been very satisfied with them. For really long clamping, I have some pipe clamps.

Mike

[Mike Holbrook]

Glenn I was using the SMC search. I see a good number of hits from the SMC search but clamps did not seem to be the major topic of discussion in any of the ones I checked out.

I have heard many people state that they liked the Bessy K clamps over the years, which is why I bought 4 of them. They felt heavy and clumsy to get into place compared to the Quick type clamps I was use to from construction projects. I probably just need more experience using them. I'm sure part of it is the longer clamps are by nature a little clumsier. I sort of looked past the Bessy UniKlamps as being too similar to the Quick Clamps or F style clamps. I will give the Bessy UniKlamps a better look. I have used my F clamps more than just about anything as they were my original clamps and the UniKlamps seem to function similarly.

The bar clamps I have may be Jorgensens I-beam clamps, they are too old to tell for sure but they look very similar. Yes, they get heavy fast in iron and I can see the weight advantage in aluminum. The only concern I had about aluminum was concerning whether or not they might flex too much?

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I have I think 4 of the 24" K Body Revos, as well as a couple of extender kits (got the extender kits cheap when my local Sears stopped carrying the Craftsman-branded K Body stuff) and a a few of the 12" heavy-duty Bessey F Clamps, as well as a whole bunch of little F clamps. I really love wooden hand-screw clamps too; they work great as a paring block when I need it, and they're my go to for quick workholding while working on a piece.

I tend to use fewer clamps than some as I use curved cauls - I bought the "bowclamp" cauls years ago now before it I realized it was something I could make myself. Real handy for edge gluing, I can do a four foot glue up with two bar clamps where I might normally need a whole bunch.

Making the K clamps less awkward for me was a matter of working with the clamps flat on the table and bringing the work to the clamps.

As much as I wouldn't be without a nice clamp when I need one, the better I get at woodworking, the fewer clamps I use - the last couple of projects I only used clamps for edge gluing boards to make wider pieces. I've been drawboring or wedging my tenons, and if everything goes right with my dovetails, they hammer together or get pressed in my vise and I call it done. The clamps still get used for dadoes and such, but the fewer I have to use the easier things are. Drawboring was especially helpful with my bench as it allowed me to securely attach things that were too long for the clamps I had at hand, and using pins for alignment helped with dry fit.

as far as flexing the aluminum clamps, I feel like if you're flexing them enough to be an issue, it's time to look at the joinery or the flatness of the stock rather than continuing to crank down.

[Sam Murdoch]

Here is a recent thread on the subject that might be useful http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?199573-What-size-clamps-do-you-use-most-often
I posted twice with a definite opinion :).

Here are so many ways to store them http://www.google.com/search?q=Clamp+racks&hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=ijVBUY73Ibi24AP664GIAg&ved=0CGEQsAQ&biw=1273&bih=948

I'm using the Woodpecker racks as seen in the 15th photo.

[Gary Hodgin]

For heavy duty work I use pipe clamps. I get the pipe from Home Depot. Black pipe like that used in gas lines. HD sells it in 1/2" and 3/4". It can be cut to whatever length you want and HD will thread both ends for a 50 cents or so. I use Pony adjustable clamps on the pipe. You can get the 1/2" or 3/4" Pony clamps.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100553686?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=gas+pipe&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=100553686#.UUE4DBdwpD0

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=pony+clamps&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All

P.S. I have a few Bessey clamps that I really like but they're expensive. An advantage of the pipe clamps from HD is that you can buy several lengths of pipe and swap out the pony clamps since they're removal.

I also use aluminum bar clamps from Harbor Freight. They will flex under pressure so I cut strips of hardwood to fit inside the bar and then ping the ends so the wood will stay put. I got the idea from Paul Sellers.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=aluminum+bar+clamps

[Ron Kellison]

I have a full complement of all the standard clamps but I find the ones I pick up most often for all those time you simply want to hold something in place are the traditional European wooden cam clamps. They are very light, very quick to use and they have a surprising amount of grip. I got my first ones from Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=44974&cat=1,43838,47843) and just recently added to my collection by picking up a few from a luthier that was going out of business for about $5 each. They are much friendlier that the standard F-clamp!

Regards,

Ron

[Stanley Covington]

I prefer the Jorgenson I-Beam clamps (7200 series). While I don't always need the power they provide, it is nice to know it is always available. And since the bar is the most rigid method available, it creates less bow. I see the extra weight as an advantage.

I also use the Jorgenson clamps with the straight handle (31718-HD) to clamps thing to my workbench. Very handy.

I own 6 of the parallel-jaw clamps, four by Jorgenson and 2 by Bessey. They are useful for clamping carcases, but not much else. Too weak. And they break.

I am forced to use pipe clamps now, and hate them.

Stan

[Mike Holbrook]

Ron I have a few of the wood lever clamps too and I like them a great deal. I just worry about them for larger work in terms of sturdiness. I see Highland Woodworking is offering Bessey K Body Jr. Parallel clamps and I am wondering if they may be good for general purpose use? The full size Besseys are kinda big and bulky for many jobs.

I am obsessing on what I need to use to glue up my workbench top as I realize a sloppy glue up will mean much more work with the planes later.. It will be a split top Rubo style with one top piece 18-20" and the other 6-8", so I do not see the need for clamps longer than 24" to glue it up. I want to make the top 3-4" thick so I am thinking the Bessey Jr. clamps with 1 1/2" x 3 1/4" jaw faces should work. I am not so sure about bar clamps with their shorter jaws. Once I get a group of boards held together with Besseys I might even out and spread the pressure over the entire length of the top by using bar and or quick clamps, rotating which side I place them on.

The bow clamp seems like a good idea but the narrow width of even the wider side of my Rubo top may not benefit from these as they seem to be used more often for wider work.

[Pat Barry]

Mike,

If I were you, no matter which clamps I used for the task of laminating 3 to 4" thick pieces for your bench top, I would have clamps equally distributed both top and bottom. I did mine (2 1/2" thick ash) with pipe clamps and Jorgenson F clamps (24 and 36" long) both. I think I had 20 clamps total for the 5 foot length, about an average of 6" separation, alternated top and bottom. You can't have too many clamps for this task.

[Todd Hyman]

Mike,

Rockler has the 24 " and 40" Irwin parallel clamps as well as I think the 24" Bessey Revo clamps on sale this month. (the store is in Sandy Springs if you didnt know)

[Mike Holbrook]

Thanks for the heads up Todd. The Highland sale price is better than the Rockler price and there are a few other items they carry I need so I am thinking about making the trip DOWN Town. Highland says they carry 12", 18",24", 36" and 50". Rockler lists 12", 24" 24", 31", 40", 50" & 60" which seems kinda weird. I am in the process of counting up exactly how many 24" quick clamps I have Pat. I may get a few 18" and 4+ 36" REVO K Bodies. I think I have plenty 24" clamps. I think 36" seems a great size for making cabinets.

[Stew Hagerty]

I always bought my K-Body revo's on Amazon. First of all, I have their "Prime" membership so shipping for most things is free. Second, if you get their "2-Packs" the price is pretty good. Right now the 24" 2-Packs are $84.50 with free 2-day Prime shipping. So, they're still cheaper than Rockler after you add shipping and tax to their price. If you are an Amazon Prime member that is...

Another FYI thing...

Check out the bar clamps at your local Harbor Freight. While they certainly aren't up the quality of Bessey or Jorgensen, they work quite well for the price. And speaking of price... You can buy a truck load of them for the price of a dozen or so of the Bessy or Jorgensen. I've got 12 of each size from 6" through 24".

Oh and one more thing...

Bessey Mighty Mini's

They are AWSOME and so very useful!!! I reach for them all the time. In fact, they are probably my most used clamps.

257059

[John W Johnson]

I was amazed at how few post I found searching this topic. We know we can't have too many clamps right? Yet I find lots of posts and pictures of all the hand saw, plane...collections people have but very little on this very basic tool. There are so many options available it can be a little baffling. So I thought I would see if we could collect some comments and pictures of peoples clamps and clamp storage. I want ot update my clamp collection and find a better way to store them as well. My clamps are currently hanging on hooks in StoreWall (heavier duty pegboard). I am a little worried about the weight of all those clamps damaging my StoreWall.

I am about to build a bench, if my hands ever heal. I have a dozen or more of various types of quick 24" clamps. I find that I only have 6 longer clamps (36-48"): 4 Besseys & 2 old heavy bar clamps that my grandmother had. I plan to add a few more longer clamps, long enough for gluing up a workbench top (mine will be between 24-30") and cabinet construction. I am interested in hearing what kinds of clamps others like and why. I like my grandmothers old bar clamps and I see Lee Valley has similar clamps made of aluminum. The only issue I see with bar clamps is their short reach.


I recently finished a 24" x 98" workbench that was a little over 4" thick. I had several 3/4" pipe clamps of undetermined origin and eight of the heavy Bessey k body clamps from 2 - 4'. The Besseys would have probably been sufficient, but I was happy to be able to really ratchet down on this pipe clamps. I usually use a mixture of old and new aluminum clamps, I think from Dubuque Clamp Co. I got my new ones from Tools for Working Wood in Brooklyn, and they seem to be a perfect match for the old clamps I inherited twenty years ago. They appear to be the same clamps as those offered by Lee Valley, and the free shipping would be a real money saver, especially in the longer lengths. I had to buy four six footers to build a side board for a daughter. In my case the aluminum are much easier for me to handle on regular furniture work, but I felt I needed the others due to the size and weight of that workbench. But by far the most used clamps in my shop are the Bessey LC8's. I'd never have spent that much on an 8" clamp, but they were a gift. I liked them so much I got two more to supplement the first pair.

[glenn bradley]

Glenn I was using the SMC search. I see a good number of hits from the SMC search but clamps did not seem to be the major topic of discussion in any of the ones I checked out.

I have heard many people state that they liked the Bessy K clamps over the years, which is why I bought 4 of them. They felt heavy and clumsy to get into place compared to the Quick type clamps I was use to from construction projects. I probably just need more experience using them. I'm sure part of it is the longer clamps are by nature a little clumsier. I sort of looked past the Bessy UniKlamps as being too similar to the Quick Clamps or F style clamps. I will give the Bessy UniKlamps a better look. I have used my F clamps more than just about anything as they were my original clamps and the UniKlamps seem to function similarly.

The bar clamps I have may be Jorgensens I-beam clamps, they are too old to tell for sure but they look very similar. Yes, they get heavy fast in iron and I can see the weight advantage in aluminum. The only concern I had about aluminum was concerning whether or not they might flex too much?

The new K-body Revos did "up" the weight factor. They are now in the range of the Jorgie cabinet masters, the Jets and the Irwins all of which I avoid for the reasons you state. There was a member selling a boatload of the old K-Body style, many still new but, he was asking collector prices (and got them if I recall). I do really miss the old K-body style and wish I had a few more in the longer lengths.

Those old Jorgie I-beams last forever. Dad had a set for as long as I can remember and they fell off the radar somewhere over the last 30 years or so. The thing I like about the Uni-Klamps is they have a lot of the advantages of simple f-style clamps without the tendency to pull things askew while tightening. I don't like the price as they are priced at a premium but, I'm addicted. Amazon will frequently run a sale on a set of 6 (http://www.amazon.com/Bessey-UNIK-6S-Multi-Purpose-Parallel-UniKlamp/dp/B00065WPYI) that makes them about $18 each: I see the set is not currently available but, comes and goes pretty regularly. I guess I learned when the old style K-bodys went away so I now have plenty of Uni-Klamps . . . I'm not sure if that's a good thing or not, I'll have to check with my wallet :D

[Stew Hagerty]

The new K-body Revos did "up" the weight factor. They are now in the range of the Jorgie cabinet masters, the Jets and the Irwins all of which I avoid for the reasons you state. There was a member selling a boatload of the old K-Body style, many still new but, he was asking collector prices (and got them if I recall). I do really miss the old K-body style and wish I had a few more in the longer lengths.

Those old Jorgie I-beams last forever. Dad had a set for as long as I can remember and they fell off the radar somewhere over the last 30 years or so. The thing I like about the Uni-Klamps is they have a lot of the advantages of simple f-style clamps without the tendency to pull things askew while tightening. I don't like the price as they are priced at a premium but, I'm addicted. Amazon will frequently run a sale on a set of 6 (http://www.amazon.com/Bessey-UNIK-6S-Multi-Purpose-Parallel-UniKlamp/dp/B00065WPYI) that makes them about $18 each: I see the set is not currently available but, comes and goes pretty regularly. I guess I learned when the old style K-bodys went away so I now have plenty of Uni-Klamps . . . I'm not sure if that's a good thing or not, I'll have to check with my wallet :D

In my last post I did mention my K-Body Revo clamps but I didn't really say anything about them. Yes, they're heavy. And they are strong, and rigid, and dead on parallel. When I use them, I rarely have to make much in the way of adjustments to square. They are perfect for edge glue-ups because they clamp tight and the board doesn't want to bow up & down nearly as much as with regular bar clamps. Of course, you still need to alternate above & below, but they simply don't hardly bend and so it they don't try to take the board along for the ride. I have 8 - 24", 4 - 31", 4 - 40", 4 - 50", 4 - 60", 2 - 82", and 2 - 98" so it's plain to see that I really like them. With what I build, I use the 24's constantly while the 31's, 40's, and 50's are naturally used on the larger glue-ups (and if I run out of the 24's). The large ones (60's, 82's, and 98's) I probably could have done without, but when I needed them I was sure glad I had them. I said before that I have a whole bunch of the HF bar clamps, but I mostly just use those for clamping things to the bench, as a third hand, or for smaller component glue-ups. For everything else, it's my K-Body Revo's

[Chris Vandiver]

If you're planning on using the clamps for building your bench top, you'll have the easiest time by using either bar clamps or pipe clamps. Bessy K-body clamps are not ideal for exerting a lot of pressure(like bar and pipe clamps are) and you may need to exert some pretty good presure, in the heat of battle. Keep in miind that clamping does require some skill to have a glue up go smoothly and effectively. Flat, straight and co-planer pieces(that you're laminating) are one of the keys to trouble free glue-ups. Clamps go on the top and bottom.

[Mike Holbrook]

Highlands price is better than the Amazon price for the REVO Jr.s. I finally found UniKlamps at Highland even though a search did not turn them up. Highlands price for the UniKlamps is within a few $ of their price for the REVO Jr.s which appear to be almost the same but a little heavier duty. I do have old Jorgensen F or bar clamps, in the smaller sizes, that I have had for many years. The Jorgensen bar or F clamps I have require protective covers/anti mar pieces for most work.

[Andrew Joiner]

OK. We all agree on one style of favorite clamp. To me this topic is like" what do you look for in a partner/spouse". All woodworkers have different ideas on favorites in both categories.

For me they only need to squeeze tight. I tend toward the cheapest, lightest, types that will last forever (in clamps not spouses).

I like clamps with no plastic parts. Handscrews and pipe clamps are the first I grab. F-clamps are second. I use Vise-Grip locking C-clamp pliers with the swivel pads a lot.

[Frank Drew]

I agree with those who like parallel clamps; I've only used K-Bodies, and came to them late, but they quickly became my preferred clamp for most glue-ups for the reasons Stew went into (and for which reasons I came to hate pipe clamps, although I had a bunch of them from when I first opened my shop and you can't deny their utility in some situations and the fact that you can swap clamp parts on various pipe lengths is a cost-saving feature.)

Over 25 years in one shop, though, I ended up with multiples of just about every clamp commercially available, and there were jobs when just about every clamp in the shop was in use.

[Andrew Joiner]

Over 25 years in one shop, though, I ended up with multiples of just about every clamp commercially available, and there were jobs when just about every clamp in the shop was in use.

Amen to that.

You never have to many clamps. I guess in this case it could be said you can have " just enough".

[David Weaver]

I agree with those who like parallel clamps; I've only used K-Bodies, and came to them late,

You have the best there is, the most intuitive, reasonably light and easy to use. I wish bessey would've been good enough to us to keep making the original k bodies in germany. Half of my clamps are k bodies and half are the jet abominations with the awful thumb tab on them, and I've played with others, such as the irwin.

Specifically, the jets are much heavier and because the thumbtab keeps the clamps from moving as freely as the bessey clamps ( a feature that must be attractive to beginners who can't work a bessey clamp ) they are a much bigger pain to work with. Their extra weight just makes them more likely to bang into something or be harder to adjust when partly clamped than the besseys. Of all of the things I've bought in my shop, if I could redo it I would never have gotten any off brand clamps like the jets. Everything else I've bought and eventually tossed provided at least some valuable information.

[Mike Holbrook]

OK I will be buying more Bessey's. Now I need to figure out which ones and how many. I also wonder if I should buy a few other clamps as well. Specifically I am thinking about a few of the aluminum parallel clamps and a few Bow clamps. I plan to build a good number of cabinets for my home and business, both located on our property. I am wondering if the parallel clamps might be useful for adding hard wood edges to plywood, doors, drawers and tops? Maybe Bessey's clamping mouths might be too/needlessly big? I also wonder if a 24" and maybe 36 or 48" set of Bow clamps might come in handy. It would seem like the Bow Clamps might do a better job of creating even pressure to a group of boards being glued together to create a level surface.

But back to what type and size Besseys. I am reading that the newer, heavier Besseys might be overkill and harder to use than the original K clamps. Highland carries Bessey K Body REVO Jr. Parallel Clamps and Bessey Parallel Jaw UniKlamps. These two clamps seem to have the same design features in a lighter clamp.Are the Jr. clamps more like the old style clamps? I am guessing they are lighter but not quite as light as the UniKlamps. Highlands price for the Jr. clamps seems like the best deal, close to the same price as the UniKlamps. The UniKlamps sem to lack the pads on the jaws and the two movable stand-offs.

I am immediately concerned with gluing up the top for my workbench. I plan to make the top 3-4" thick. It will be a Rubo style bench with the two top pieces. I am thinking about 18" and 8" for my two top pieces. Bob Lang actually posted on a post I made here regarding his 20th Century Workbench design. He said he would change the top if he made another. His bench has two 12" sections. He said he would make the front section larger and the back section smaller. He also suggested making the tool sections between the two top pieces smaller. I plan to take his advise. So I will need 24" clamps or 24" Bow clamps to span the 18" side. I wonder if 2-6 24" Bow Clamps would make the job easier and produce a superior result? Maybe a Bow Clamp on each end at least, four seems even better, maybe using alternating Bessey between? I have two old 36" iron I Beam Parallel clamps, two 44" Bessey K Clamps, two 36" Bessey K Clamps that I am thinking may serve to apply greater pressure anywhere it may be needed. If I buy four (2 pair) 24" Bow Clamps and 6-8 Bessey 24-36" REVO Jr. clamps maybe I am good? I am wondering if the 24" Bow Clamps might extend a different distance from my bench top creating a problem with supporting the work while the glue dries. Maybe this is why some say they would rather have all one style of Bessey clamps?

[David Weaver]

go to home depot and buy a couple of DF 2x4s and some bolts and make something that looks like bow clamps. Plane a little bit of a crown (consistent amount) on each 2x4 and put packing tape on their work surfaces to avoid gluing them to panels. The total cost should be about $20 or less for three or four big ones. Someone on here (mike henderson?) posted a picture of somthing of that type before.

Spend the money on the bar clamps instead (I'd rather have the bessey jrs than the full size for general work, there's no reason to deal with a super heavy clamp for regular work, and they'd probably be fine for a bench unless you do a really ugly job of stock preparation and need a hydraulic press to hold the boards together.

I don't think you'll need the bow clamp types for a bench top, either, and usually not for panels if the gluing happens the same day you do the dimensioning. If you do need that type of thing for some reason, you can use your homemade imitations.

[Zach Dillinger]

I inherited a number of really nice pipe clamps. They are my go to clamps. I also have a number of wooden sash clamps that I bought at an auction a few years back. Big'uns, 4 and 5 feet long, as well as some 3 footers. Really a joy to use. If I ever do the addition to my shop, I'm thinking about making a glue up table withe the 5 footers embedded in the top, like you see some large scale window / door factories have.

[Mike Holbrook]

Makes sense David. I think the Bessey REVO Jr.s are the best, most serviceable option I find currently available. So maybe I just invest in a few more of these, maybe an extra pair of 36-48". A buddy of mine says he uses 12" Bessey clamps more than any other, so even if they may not be the most versatile for cabinet making I may find them helpful for other uses.

Zach, have you seen BlumToolCo.'s plywood bench made to work with pipe clamps? It should not be too hard to make your own. I have a Festool table that is similar, but if I didn't.

[Zach Dillinger]

Zach, have you seen BlumToolCo.'s plywood bench made to work with pipe clamps? It should not be too hard to make your own. I have a Festool table that is similar, but if I didn't.

Nope, haven't seen it. I'll look it up and see if it is similar to what I was thinking.

[Gary Hodgin]

Zach,
You've probably seen the new fangled workbench designed to work with pipe clamps. I don't have one but have seen the pictures and plans. Just google new fangled workbench is you haven't.

[Zach Dillinger]

I have seen that one Gary. It is an interesting take, for sure. A great way to get started without a lot of outlay on hardware.

[Mike Holbrook]

The Blum bench can be found by just entering blumtool.---Blum's design uses a base that folds up into the table, making it portable. He has a few innovations for sale to enhance pipe clamps for table use too. I made a sheet goods sawing table base by using water pipe sections, flanges and Ts for the base. The base ends up with enough leg length adjustment, via the screw on flanges, to adjust to floors that may not be dead level. The legs can also be removed if I want to throw it in the truck and move it between the house and our dog training building on our property.

I'm sure Zach could figure something to fit his needs from these approaches to pipe clamp tables.

I am heading to Highland Woodworking to look at some clamps. I may pick up a few more for my Festool table too for light clamping, holding down chores.

[David Weaver]

If you get the new k jrs, let us know what you think of them (or do you already have them?). I *despise* the jet clamps, and half of mine are those, I got into this hobby right when they were coming out. They are bulky and cumbersome with a worthless thumb ratchet mechanism compared to the old bessey k body clamps. Not sure who makes the bessey clamps in the US now (is it jorgensen or someone?), but really wish they would've just kept the original made in germany k body clamps, even if the exchange rate would've made them a few bucks more. They are so much more intuitive and smooth than the other clamps I've gotten, and they don't weigh a ton. At their strength, they are more than overkill for any reasonbly well cut joint.

I wonder if they dumped the old bessey design because of the exchange rate, or if it was because of all of the new gargantuan clamps that came out with "features" like the jets and other chinese made less reliable and much more cumbersome clamps. (the full sized k body revo are about the same size as the jet clamps, just an invitation to make bigger dents in projects if they get away from you).