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Kathy Marshall
03-13-2013, 2:30 AM
I was cutting up some logs today and I had a section left from an acacia log. I almost split it to make a couple 9" bowl blanks, then decided to leave it and turn a big, fat, endgrain hollow form.
Mounted it between centers and roughed to a cylinder. At this point it's about 11" long and 8"-9" in diameter.
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Turned a tenon, then mounted it in my large bowl jaws and roughed out the shape.
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I left plenty of meat at the bottom and once it's hollowed, I'll continue the curve through to the base. Tomorrow, I'll clean up the outside, drill the inside and start the hollowing.

Richard Jones
03-13-2013, 7:28 AM
K,

looks like a nice form shaping up. And pretty wood doesn't hurt, eh?

Rich

Jon Nuckles
03-13-2013, 4:52 PM
Kathy, Just a note to say I enjoy your posts showing your process. It's fun to see how others go about their turning. Thanks.

Hayes Rutherford
03-13-2013, 9:16 PM
Another one that likes progress photos. Was curious if you hollow to the depth of the junction of your outside shape and the base. I find myself doing that even if the location changes and less material remains.

Dennis Nagle
03-13-2013, 11:21 PM
I am new to turning and I don't understand how you can turn pith to pith and not have it crack when it dries. Can you explain how that works. TKS. Dennis.

Kathy Marshall
03-14-2013, 12:52 AM
Thanks guys!


Another one that likes progress photos. Was curious if you hollow to the depth of the junction of your outside shape and the base. I find myself doing that even if the location changes and less material remains.
Hayes, I drilled down to about the 1st line, the 2nd line approximates where the base will end up. I try to visiualize the continuation of the curve and then drill to just above that point. Once it's mostly hollowed, I'll turn down the last portion before finishing hollowing the very bottom.

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I am new to turning and I don't understand how you can turn pith to pith and not have it crack when it dries. Can you explain how that works. TKS. Dennis.
Dennis, it can depend on the wood. Also I generally turn green to finish and the only place the pith will remain, is the very bottom. When I reverse it to finish the bottom, I'll soak the pith with some thin CA and that's usually enough to keep it from cracking. With mesquite and acacia (very stable woods) it usually works very well, with woods that are really prone to warping and cracking it might not be enough (the pith may hold, but the surrounding wood may crack).

Kathy Marshall
03-14-2013, 1:02 AM
Today I cleaned up the outside form, drilled the center and hollowed part way. I also sanded the outside just to get a better idea of how it will look. Just for something different, I used the vinegar solution to ebonize the rim. I'll burn a line in to give a sharp border between the ebonized and natural wood. I think I'll like it better after some oil is applied and the wood darkens up.
I didn't get as far along on it as I was hoping, got a call today to pick up some african sumac :D and it was getting late by the time I unloaded and sealed it all. It got too dark for pics, so you'll just have to take my word for it :eek:.
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I should have it finished tomorrow.

Dennis Nagle
03-14-2013, 3:57 AM
That looks great Kathy. I made a tool handle the other day out of oak and used the vinegar and steel wool to ebonize it. I was shocked at how fast it turned black. Once you get your crisp trim line on it, it will really pop.