Poll: Woodworking Glues

[Brett Bobo]

Which woodworking glue do you use the majority of the time for typical interior furniture projects and why? I've been using Titebond III exclusively for several years now, not only for the waterproof capability as a "just in case" but also for the longer open time as compared to TBI and TBII. It also gives me the latitude of using it for an occasional outdoor project as well.

Thanks,
Brett

[Bill Huber]

I use Titebond III for everything.
I like it because I can use it outside or inside, it is strong and I don't have to keep different glues on the shelf.

[Brett Robson]

Whatever Titebond I happen to have around for internal/unfinished joints. Liquid hide for anything that shows because it won't mess up your finish.

I don't build exterior stuff so no comment there.

[David Weaver]

Liquid hide glue when temperature allows. Some sort of PVA when it doesn't.

[John Bailey]

I tend to use epoxy for every thing, although I don't do furniture. Most projects I work on are water related -- boats, paddles, etc. -- and I've found it works well for just about every thing.

[Peter Quinn]

I use titebond III for almost everything. It has less creep than type 1, lower operating temperature helps in my cold shop, I like it for things like cutting boards that might get wet, good for out door work. I use about a gallon of glue per year, I prefer to buy my glue by the gallon, lots of my work could be handled with type one, but its easier just having one glue for everything. One exception is interior projects non cutting boards in light colored stain grade wood, for that I buy a small container of type one to suit he occasion.

[Mike Henderson]

I use both the original Titebond and Titebond III. I have a bunch of original Titebond in the shop so I'm trying to use it up. But if I was buying fresh, I'd probably go with just Titebond III.

Mike

[John Donofrio]

I keep both on hand but use Titebond II primarily. Titebond III is used when a longer open time is needed or for an outdoor project. I have used Titebond II on outdoor projects and it seems to hold fine. An arbor I built probably 10 years ago is still standing. It does need replaced now but it's not because of the glue used. Those joints are still rock solid.

[Rod Sheridan]

I use Lee Valley 2002GF for most of my work.

Good open time, nice amount of tack, good colour for darker woods which is what I use.............Rod.

[John Piwaron]

Most often TB2. But I do have some Gorilla glue around, though a small bottle 'cause of shelf life.

I also have some West System epoxy. Used occasionally.

[Gary Hodgin]

I'm all over the board when it comes to glue. I've used all 3 Titebonds and really don't have a preference other than the III can be used for outdoors. I choose the extended if given a choice. I really don't like Gorilla glue but have used it some. I also use CA adhesive for some repairs, such as loose chair spindles and other small household repairs. My wife and grandkids think I'm some sort of super repair man when it comes to toys and christmas ornaments. They think CA glue can take care of anything.

My preference is hot hide glue but unless the project is pretty large I end up wasting quite a bit. I put left overs in small contains and freeze in the spare frig but LOML doesn't feel it's worthy of the space. I use hot hide glue for almost all repairs other than the ones that the CA glues are more suited for, those where I can't easily get the piece apart or there's just a hairline crack.

[Bill Petersen]

Mostly Titebond III because I use mostly darker wood, frequently make cutting boards, don't want to have too many different glues to keep track of, it has a slightly longer open time and a slightly lower temperature requirement for my usually cool shop.

[Jeff Duncan]

I'll preface my answer admitting I don't do a whole lot of furniture, my projects vary but mostly built-ins and doors.....having said that I use several glues frequently, but Titebond 1 the most. I probably go through 3-4 gallons of the 1 in a year, another gallon or so of the Melamine glue, and depending on specific projects a couple gallons of the Cold Press version. I've had a gallon of West System epoxy that has lasted for over a decade and gets pulled out once or twice a year for the odd project.

good luck,
JeffD

[John Lanciani]

I use Lee Valley 2002GF for most of my work.

Good open time, nice amount of tack, good colour for darker woods which is what I use.............Rod.

+1, my personal favorite.

[David Helm]

Original Titebond because I have a huge amount of it. When it is gone I'll likely try the others. I do have some epoxy but don't use it for gluing. I fill knots in live edge slab with the proper color of woodflour. Works beautifully for that.

[Jacob Reverb]

Titebond II, tried and true.

[Charlie Jones]

Titebond III for most , occasionally epoxy and CA.

[John Hays]

I just use Elmer's Carpenter Glue... seems to work very well. Then again, I don't build fine furniture... yet. ;)

[Philip Berman]

Titebond III for anything that might touch water, liquid hide that I make for everything else. I like the reversibility, not so it can be repaired in the future but so I can fix my screw-ups in the present.

[Chris Padilla]

Am I the only one still using duct tape?

[Paul Saffold]

Titebond Liquid Hide Glue for the long open times and Titebond I Original for short open time. You didn't ask but TBIII for outside.

[Stephen Schweitzer]

I have probably more types of glue than I need. Titebond III ,Gorilla glue (wood and White) and some Elmers.
I recently purchased a bottle of Titebond II Extend and it has become my glue of choice for panel glueup.

[Harold Burrell]

TB2...because it's cheaper than TB3...:o

[Leo Passant]

Hot hide glue for everything except for flesh wounds where I use CA glue (I haven't used sutures for years!).

[Michael Koenig]

Titebond 2 its stronger than 1 and can be used indoors and outdoors,

[Mel Fulks]

That's the first time I've seen Titebond 2 listed as stronger than regular Titebond .

[Roger Pozzi]

I use TB III all the time, for everything that doesn't require epoxy. Will continue using it until I find something with a longer working time. (I'm somewhat slow)

[Rod Sheridan]

I use TB III all the time, for everything that doesn't require epoxy. Will continue using it until I find something with a longer working time. (I'm somewhat slow)

Hi Roger, try the Lee Valley 2002GF, it has a longer open time............Rod.

[Steve Baumgartner]

I use TB III for furniture mainly because of the lower chalk temperature (my shop runs chilly in the winter). I use West System epoxy for boats.

[Kent Cartwright]

I made the switch from TB to Old Brown Glue several years ago and I am glad I did. Glue line issues are a thing of the past. Yes, you can miss glue spots with liquid hide glue, but hot water and a toothbrush makes those spots go away. With TB your choices are scrub at glueup time and hope you got it all, or work with a sharp chisel and sandpaper for those spots you missed.

I also love the reversibility of liquid hide glue. It takes a good bit of effort, but it can be done.

[Paul McGaha]

I voted for Titebond as almost all my stuff is for indoor use. A little surprised that it seems to be favored less than Titebond II or III.

PHM

[Mel Fulks]

Paul, I think the reason more use Titebond 2 is they run commercial shops and often need exterior glue. It is pretty hard to tell difference between type 1 and type 2 after they have been poured from bulk container into the smaller containers. So the most practical thing to do is use type 2 for everything. It's easier and probably cheaper in long run.

[Val Kosmider]

I recently got start on a new container of TB III. I notice it seems to be thinner than my TB I. Is that generally true, or is because my TB I is sort of like...well...old?

I use a product called E-6000 for all of those 'honey can you glue this' type of jobs. Christmas ornaments, broken glass/ plates, miscelaneous bric a brac, etc. It seems like a cross between the old Dupont Cement and a CA type product. Works well. Bought it at the checkout counter at Woodcraft. Not sure who makes it.

[Mel Fulks]

The difference is probably because the type 3 is a different type. I think it has some polyurethane stuff mixed in. When the glues are too old you will usually see some thickening and inconsistently .

[Stew Hagerty]

I voted TB II, but that's not entirely accurate. For most applications I use TB II Extend. But I also use TB II Dark, and TB II Molding quite often. Just to be well rounded, I also keep on hand TB III, GG Polyurethane, Gorilla Glue PVA (for when I want a fast tack & set), CA glue (for crack & chip repair), and TB Liquid Hide Glue, and T-88 Epoxy... whew, I got it all out in one breath... :cool:

[Jim Finn]

I use Elmers white glue. Joint stronger than the wood, dries clear and cost $16 a gallon. I use 2 gallons a year.

[Chuck Foster]

TB-2. About 7yrs ago I mistakenly glued up a cutting board with it so I decided to keep it as an experiment. It's been going through the dishwasher 1-2 times a week and has just started showing signs of joint failure...That's good enough for me!