Sanding the interior of a HF using an inertia sander. How well does it work?

[Glen Blanchard]

I have tried the 'sandpaper-on-a-hemostat' trick, but have never felt that I was doing a good job of getting the sandpaper to conform to the interior contours of the vessel. Recently I got to thinking that one of these might be handy for this task, but the 2" diameter (the smallest I have seen) would require a pretty large opening. Anyone know if something like this is available in a 1" flavor?


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[Dan Jechura]

woodcraft does sell a smaller version. I think it is 1 inch.

Dan J.

[John Hann]

Sorby makes one.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2021212/26050/sorby-micro-sandmaster.aspx

[Glen Blanchard]

Exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks.

[Dan Forman]

Based on the relative size of the head to the shaft, it looks like you would still have to have about a three inch opening in order to get the tool in place for the head to do the sanding.

Dan

[Michael Mills]

Vince carries 1" holders and disc.

http://vinceswoodnwonders.com/back-up-pads/

[Jim Underwood]

You could make some flap sanders with cloth backed sandpaper, and a threaded rod. I've done that before. It worked pretty well. You just have to cut your flaps small enough to fold into your opening. You won't need near as big a hole then.

[Timothy Mann]

I have the sorby "1 inch inertia sander and on HF I can get it through about a "1 1/2 hole give or take a little bit. The head where the paper goes is "1 inch, but its the knuckle you have to worry about getting through as well. But I use it fairly often and I am more then happy with it.

[Dennis Nagle]

here is an interesting DIY version

http://pueblowoodturners.org/Members/wolfd/How%20To%20Make%20An%20Inertia%20Sander.pdf

[robert baccus]

Glen, try a 6-10" straight extension with a 1-2-or3" pad on the end. They are easily interchangeable for size and grit to match the opening. Chuck up in a corded drill and now spin the lathe. Use a folded paper towel for a front handle and let the shaft spin in the towel. A cotton rag here would be more dangerous yeah. Using both hands and having power to the sanding makes it maneverable and fast.

[Marvin Hasenak]

I would take a handful of 1" square pieces of medium grit sandpaper and cup or so of crushed walnut tumbling media and put it all inside of the vessel and let it turn for a couple of hours or so and you would have fairly smooth inside. The sandpaper will be kept in motion by the crushed walnut pieces and be sanding as it turns. The walnut media by itself will act as a sanding media.

[Bill Hensley]

I did as Jim and Robert suggested. Cut some strips of 150 grit and mounted them on to a 1/4-20 screw. The screws fit into the end of a drill bit extension rod. I made a couple with different diameters. Chuck it in the drill and run the lathe low speed for quick internal sanding.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Make your entry hole too small for any one to stick their finger in and you won't have to sand.:) I just finished a 12" wide hollowform a 2" opening. I was able to sand the parts that can be seen with a 12" drill extension and my normal 2" sanding pad. The problem with an inertia sander is not the pad size it is the size of the universal joint. "The Sanding Glove" sells an inertia sander that call "The Sanding Solution". It is quite expensive. I own one and rarely use it. It is probably the best one of it's kind sold because it comes with several size pads and also has a shaft extension. With all that, how well it works still depends on having a large enough access hole and 1" is not enough for most shapes.
faust

[Glen Blanchard]

Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. I already use an extension to sand the bottom 2/3rds or so of the vessel (often power sanding). I was hoping to find a way to sand that upper third that is often difficult to access due to the angle needed to do so.