Who makes the best brace?

[Leigh Betsch]

I'm a glutton for punishment. I'm thinking about buying a brace and copying it. Is there a design that is considered superior? A metal brace, I'm not talking about a wood one.

[Mike Henderson]

The Yankee brace made for the Bell Companies is often considered the best. For a 10" brace I think the model number is 2101, but if you search on eBay for Yankee brace you'll find a bunch.

But why make your own when you can buy one for a very reasonable price? Why not spend your time making something you can't buy?

Mike

[Leigh Betsch]

Why? I guess because I like the process. I like to refine the points that I can. I also get a bit obsessed with things that are just not made "perfect", or as I see it as perfection. Maybe if I buy one that is considered the best I won't find anything to improve. I guess it's the same reason why I like to make planes and why some folks make saws. Of course a saw is on my list also!

[David Weaver]

People are going to expect a bell system brace if you are going to take the time to copy something.

I like the ps&w samson chuck braces a lot, too. More than the yankees, but I am no brace aficionado, and they've never been a bloggers golden boy brace, so they are probably not what folks will expect to see.

[Jonathan McCullough]

I like Fray braces. Not as much to fret over for a machinist, but still plenty of challenges to make one. Ninety-five percent of the time you don't need a ratchet, and I find ratchet braces to be nose-heavy and a bit unwieldy. The mechanism in a Yankee is pretty complicated and the one I have is gunked up with hardened grease. I'm sure it will function very nicely when I get it back up to snuff. The Samsons/Lion type braces I have work just as well, have simpler mechanisms, and as a result it appears to me that they're a bit more practical. You might also be able to adapt an off-the-shelf tapered roller bearing for the tightening mechanism.

[Christian Castillo]

If you go by what collectors look for, Miller Falls Parsons DeLuxe brace, otherwise, I like Samson/Lion types because they function as well as Yankee 2100/2101s but I like the rosewood/cocobola handles found on many of the models as opposed to black plastic. They all function equally well so aesthetics decide it for me.

[Jim Neeley]

I like Fray Spoffords for their simplicity.. and 1915-1919 Millers-Falls 730-34 series A's (varies with size) with their coco handles, elegant style, Holdall chuck and Leland universal jaws.

[David Weaver]

If you go by what collectors look for, Miller Falls Parsons DeLuxe brace, otherwise, I like Samson/Lion types because they function as well as Yankee 2100/2101s but I like the rosewood/cocobola handles found on many of the models as opposed to black plastic. They all function equally well so aesthetics decide it for me.

I don't know what samsons cost now, but we shouldn't talk too well about them or the vultures will make them $75. I chanced into a 10" brace for $10 a long time ago, and when I chanced later into a yankee brace, I kind of felt disappointed because it was no better, I like it a little less, even.

(a quick look at completed items shows they're still going for $5-$25 on ebay for decent examples. A steal for anyone who doesn't need to be part of a clique).

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Samson was the Pexto/PSW brace right? I've got a 12" one of those, and even with the problems it's got with the chuck and the jaws, i like it a lot - i think if I had one in good condition, i'd like it better than my yankees.

If you aren't doing big holes in hardwood, or working in weird spots, you probably don't need the ratchet. When you're doing something stupid like a 3/4" or 1" hole in really hardwood, or using it to drive fastners, being able to focus all your effort in the power part of the swing is nice. Working in tight spots, it's nice. I could probably get by with one big brace with a ratchet and then a couple fray type braces for normal use. I have a 6-inch swing brace that gets used a lot, one of my favorites, but it's kind of ridiculous to have a ratchet on a brace that small except for the rare instance where you're drilling in the inside corner of a cabinet or something.

I feel like too much attention gets payed to the chuck and not enough to the pad - while having good closing jaws is important, I'd rather have a brace with a stuck ratchet (as long as I can open and close the jaws on bits) and a tight-fitting pad than one with a pristine ratchet and a lot of play in the pad.

The nice thing about the Yankee's, Samson chuck and Lion chuck braces is you can really get those things to clamp down on round shank bits pretty damn well compared to something like a run of the mill Stanley brace. If you really only plan on using your brace with square shank or hex shank bits though, it doesn't really matter.

[David Weaver]

Yes, pexto/ps&W. Samson and Lion chucks. Not necessarily in that order and maybe not a one to one comparison.

[Jonathan McCullough]

Some Craftsman-branded braces are essentially the same thing.

[Chris Vandiver]

Hey Leigh- have you seen this; http://www.sydnassloot.com/brace.htm

[Leigh Betsch]

Hey Leigh- have you seen this; http://www.sydnassloot.com/brace.htm

Heck no, Thanks! I'll have a PhD in Braceology when I get done reading all that.

[Michael Ray Smith]

Who "makes" the best brace? Isn't it interesting that we (that includes me) use the present tense for companies that have been out of business for half a century?

[Joe Bailey]

Hah! - interesting observation, Michael.
An indication that many of us are living in the past (and like it there).

[Christian Castillo]

I don't know what samsons cost now, but we shouldn't talk too well about them or the vultures will make them $75. I chanced into a 10" brace for $10 a long time ago, and when I chanced later into a yankee brace, I kind of felt disappointed because it was no better, I like it a little less, even.

(a quick look at completed items shows they're still going for $5-$25 on ebay for decent examples. A steal for anyone who doesn't need to be part of a clique).

Whoops, did I say samson/lion braces are my favorite? Those things are only fit for the trash, if you aren't working with a Yankee 2101 then whatever you build is bound to fall apart :).

[Peter Pedisich]

My favorite is a Stanley 921.
I like it better than my 2101 and my Fray.

[Derek Cohen]

My favourite brace is a 12" Rose Brace by Millers Falls. It is dated 1867.

It is a little like a Fray Spoffords, which I enjoy using as well.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Drills/IDeclareThisBenchFinished_html_795dc9c9.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Drills/MFbrace.jpg

I have an 8" and 10" in the Bell System. I even have a 5", which is great for screws. However the MF, and a 5" brace I built, both as simple as can be had, are the ones I use most (probably because they are the most enjoyable).

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Brace.jpg

With these in mind, if you are looking, get a Fray.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[David Martino]

Here's a website with a treasure trove of info on braces, including patent drawings for Yankee 2100:

http://www.georgesbasement.com/galootsales/Sale02152007/YankeeBraces03062007.htm

[Leigh Betsch]

Thanks for the link, more great info to study!

[Jonas Baker]

Do you want to make a ratcheting brace or non ratcheting? Having used many braces, I've come to prefer the simplicity of a fray spoffard brace with no rachet mechanism and the simple chuck. I find the absence of a large ratcheting chuck makes it easier to keep the bit straight when drilling, as you can sight down to the bit easier to keep the bit at the intended angle.

If you are building one with a ratcheting chuck, there are many variables to think about (most of which being: how to actually build one, but that's your problem... just kidding with you of course). The ratchet mechanism needs to be smooth enough that when you are reversing the brace, the bit stays in place and doesn't reverse with the brace: This is one thing the Yankee 2101 braces do well, they have a very smooth turning ratchet.

One thing that I don't like about the Yankee 2101, is that they actually only have 8 steps in the racthet mechanism. This ends up bugging me, because when you reverse the brace and then begin boring the bit again, there is a lag time when the ratchet mechanism reengages and the bit begins spinning again. So when you are using the ratchet on a brace, and spinning a brace back and forth, there ends up being more wasted movement which annoys me, especially when doing heavy boring.

A better ratcheting mechanism to me is found in the Stanley 810, which has a 16 step ratchet mechanism, which means less wasted movement and more engagement when boring with the ratcheting method.

Anyway, that's what I would think about if I was building a ratcheting brace. In fact, I would maybe go for more steps than 16, for the smoothest fastest engaging ratcheting brace out there.

That being said, for smaller jennings style bits, for spoon bits, for center bits, for shell bits, etc. I prefer to use a non ratcheting plain ole Fray Spoffard brace.


Good luck with the project, keep us posted!

Jonas

[Leigh Betsch]

Yeah, a better question might have been "What would you improve on your brace? Or What features do you like best in a brace?" I was planning to go without a chuck, or find a small one to fit up, but after seeing a few of the patent drawings I may take on the challenge of designing and building one. The drawings give me a good starting point. But I did forget that I sold my lathe, it will be leaving my shop pretty soon. So if I get started now I doubt I'll have tome to build a chuck. Or I could hold the entire project until I get my new lathe. Which will probably happen naturally.

[Jim Neeley]

Leigh,

Jonas asks the $10,000 here, as the chuck can range from a simple fray spofford clamp to a ratcheting mechanism..

[Leigh Betsch]

To tell ya the truth I've never looked at the hand tool section of eBay before. But I pulled these images from there. What do y'all think of these? I know I said I wasn't interested in wood, but that's before I saw these. They look pretty cool to me and look easy to make. With enough metal to scratch my itch.

[Jim Neeley]

I've wondered about the chucks on those myself. I'm hoping someone here will post some pictures with close-ups of the chuck anything special about the bits. I've only seen them in pictures online.

Jim

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

What size are you hoping to make? Are you hoping to use square-tang bits, or something else? A large brace and auger bits are great for making big holes, and they get a lot of writing, but outside of dogholes and occasionally wasting away for curves or something, I don't think a lot of us make a lot of big holes. Unless you're thinking of running pipes and wires without power, I guess. Like Derek posted, a hex-chuck like that might fit a lot of your needs, maybe. Just thinking out loud.

[Fred Maiman]

I sure would like to see the process of making a brace. Hope this happens.

[Leigh Betsch]

What size are you hoping to make? Like Derek posted, a hex-chuck like that might fit a lot of your needs, maybe.
Yeah, a small one is the plan. I got the idea a few years ago while drilling pilot holes for hinge screws inside a cabinet frame with my little Bosch drill. Hex-head bits would probably be all that's needed but it seems like a cop out not to make a real chuck. But something like a 4" swing and hex bits is probably what will the final plan.

[daniel lane]

Here's my favorite - David Flather (post-1846) 8" sweep Scotch brace:

256551256552256553256554

I love using this brace, far more than the 2101 I have. I'm thinking of filing or grinding small indents in my bits just to fit the bit lock on this.


daniel

[Mike Holbrook]

My suggestion for the OP is a little different approach. As the responses to this post testify there are many old braces available that are just as capable today as they were the day they were made. If a buyer does not get stuck on a specific brand auctions can often produce great deals on great old braces. I have followed auctions on many Yankee Bell System braces but have never bought one simply because I was able to buy an entire collection of 8 -14" braces that I believe work just as well for the kind of money those popular braces wind up costing at auctions.

I have 6-8 Miller Falls, Pexto, Stanley, Samson...braces that I have acquired more with the idea of low bidding on nice braces without worrying too much about loosing a bid on a specific brace. I prefer braces with nice wood handles and versatile chucking systems that allow me to use many different bits and hex shank devices. 6-10" braces are great for driving screws drilling small holes, 12-14" braces are much better at driving larger drill bits through hard wood...I like hand crank drills like my Stanley/North Bros 1545 and 1530 for drilling small holes and running in small screws in nice wood. Yankee push screwdriver/drills are great too, especially for things like the screws on door knobs...A little study of the various sites that discuss/describe the various old braces, hand drills, Yankee push screwdrivers... will give one enough knowledge of the various models these companies produced over the years:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16891057@N05/5457847698/in/photostream/lightbox/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16891057@N05/6770669067/in/photostream/lightbox/

[Mike Henderson]

This is off topic, but after reading this thread, I went on eBay and checked the price of some of the old Fray braces. They're really expensive now. Back when I bought mine, they were practically give away priced. Seems they went from "Nobody wants an old brace without a ratchet" to "I have to have a Fray brace."

Mike

[Mike Holbrook]

Right Mike!
I followed quite a few in auctions over a year or more and they all went for much more than I thought was reasonable. They seemed to get rare too.