Angle nailer ?

[John Haylow]

Hi All,
I will be installing some v joint tongue and grove 1x6'' pine wainscoting. I was wondering if I can use a 15ga angle nailer for this job?

I'm not sure if it would be able to get in tight enough and still counter sink the nail.

Thanks
John

[aurelio alarcon]

I just put up about 22 feet of pine wainscoting. The manufacturer suggested one inch nails along with some paneling adhesive. I used 18 gauge one inch nails along with paneling adhesive. It came out fantastic, and the owner was over joyed with the outcome. I didn't have to putty up the holes with the 18 gauge. I think that the 15 gauge might leave bigger holes that will require putty. It will, of course, work, but it will be more time consuming. This is how I did it. Others may have better methods.

[Walt Pater]

You shouldn't have a problem, John, except when getting close to the corners (Then face nail). I'm assuming you're going to shoot into the tongue side. If your wall isn't furred with horizontal nailers and you're just shooting into gypsum, use construction adhesive behind the wainscot.

[Rob Russell]

John,

A couple of things. First, in this SMC thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=11519&page=2&pp=15), you can see the wainscoting I put in our bathroom. If you don't have firring strips or plywood to nail to, I'd cut out some horizontal strips of sheetrock and install nailing strips. Put a strip at the top, middle and bottom. Be careful about assuming the walls are all square. I had to make up about a 1/2 of difference between the top and bottom of the wainscoting in width. In other words, the wainscoting is installed in a very slight fan, so the discrepancy is made up in super small increments and therefore not noticeable.

You can face nail the very edge of the board in the corner and the adjacent board will cover the nail. If you're planning to install a baseboard over the wainscoting and some sort of small moulding on the top of the wainscoting, you can face nail the top and bottom and use the moulding to cover the nails. That leaves just the middle to nail on the tongues. You'll need to be careful that you shoot the nails at an angle so you don't interfere with the groove sliding behind the tongue.

If you have a really long run of wainscoting, I'd leave a 1/4 gap at each end of the long run for expansion and use the adjacent walls piece to cover the gap.

I used a Porter Cable DA250 15 ga angled finish nailer and it gets into the corners just fine.

Hope this helps,

Rob

[John Weber]

I used an angled 15 ga gun for my shop paneling, and it worked great.

John

http://www.weberwoodworking.com/pond/shoptournecornerpmax-p.jpg

[aurelio alarcon]

The wainscoting that I installed was a pre-fab type that the owner had picked out. It was thinner than a 1 X. This is the reason that I could get away with using one inch 18 gauge brads.

[Tom Hintz]

I originally got my angled nailer just because it looked like a good idea, one of my better guesses! since then I have found the angled idea to be very helpful, especially when space is limited. I think it will work well for your application and probably many more down the road. So far, I have not found any downside to having an angled nailer, or situations where I wished I had a straight version for a particular job.
I have a review of the Porter Cable model I use at the link below if that might help. It goes over the range of nails etc that might be of interest (and I don't remember off-hand)

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/pcda250brvu.html

[John Haylow]

Thank you all for your responses. I'm going to be nailing the tongue into some 1x3 strapping that I have running horizontally on the studs.

Its sound like the nailer will work.

Thanks again
John