Sawmills

[Rich Riddle]

Tell me the ins and outs of sawmills. I have a friend considering one and just starting to look up information. There are some posted on the Internet of the home-made variety that look like examples of future Darwin awards. He would prefer not to achieve that status.

[Mark Bolton]

There is endless information on the web, archives here, and on woodweb.com in the sawing and drying forums. It's a very big subject and has been very well covered as an overall topic. Specifics may get you a bit more useful info.

[Rich Riddle]

There is endless information on the web, archives here, and on woodweb.com in the sawing and drying forums. It's a very big subject and has been very well covered as an overall topic. Specifics may get you a bit more useful info.
It might indeed, but I don't know where to begin. So the introductory things might prove most useful.

[Mark Bolton]

Right, was just mentioning there is massive amounts of information addressed to this very question. For instance I punched "im thinking of buying a sawmill" in to google and came up with everything from trying to quantify business or hobby, capacity, custom sawing or a mix, other peoples property and insurance, and so on.

I can only imagine it will be hard to give useful information without a bit of specifics simply because there are many preliminary details that will very quickly steer your friend in a specific direction. Most of the manufacturers cover these as well.

We own a small mill and perhaps 60% of what I may tell you may not be applicable.

Is he/she thinking of sawing a log of two here and there? More? Steady work? Will they be felling trees and bandling logs? For pay?

[Kevin Bourque]

I'm also looking for a portable sawmill. The choices are:
1) High dollar $$$, high production, fully hydraulic mill with all the bells & whistles. $35-70k+

2) Much less expensive manual sawmill where you practically need to be Hercules if you have big logs. $10-20k

3) Stationary mill that you can pack up and move to another location in a few hours. $3-7k

4) Chainsaw mill. Under $1000 not including chainsaw

5) There are also kits available that you can put together and customize yourself.

I've used a top of the line, fully hydraulic Woodmizer in the past. it's pretty hard to mill wood with anything else after using a machine like that.

[Matt Day]

Great reply Kevin.

Rich - can you be more specific as to what your buddy wants to do with the sawmill? Start his own business with a kiln and all, or more of a portable and personal unit? As others have said, there is a TON of information on the internet about it and forums dedicated to it. I suggest putting in some leg work and research the topic a bit more on your own.

[Keith Hankins]

A guy I use to get all my wood from in IL, had a mill that was unique. He would collect the logs and once a year have a sawyer come on site with a big bandsaw mill and cut. He then stacked on the property for a year to air dry then to the kiln. Was great. I volunteered a couple days of vac every year to help when he did it and he taught me how to cut a log. I even asked why he did not just buy a mill and he said it did not make sense. With depr and maint it's still cheaper to have a guy come on site and do it. Its cool process and if you don't know what your doing you can really screw up a good log. It was close to st louis across the river and he knew most of the areas and with all the storms he was kept in supply of many good logs.

[John Bailey]

http://www.norwoodsawmills.com/portable-sawmills?gclid=CLP2hqGR37UCFQWEnQodXSEA-A

http://www.woodmizer.com/us/PortableEquipment.aspx?gclid=CL6LieWR37UCFQyEnQod_ DQAMg

http://granberg.com/

http://www.arboristsite.com/

I don't know much about anything but the Granburg Alaska Sawmill. That's what I've got and its great for what it is. I've got the Alaska MK III 30" and the Mini Mill that was about $320 total with shipping at the time. It would be about $400 now unless you could find a sale like I did. I've got about 1,000 bd. ft. of walnut, cherry, and sycamore that didn't cost me a dime. I just take it to wherever the log is, cut it up into boards and haul the boards out. It's slow and hard work, but I can't think of a cheaper way to get wood. Of course you've got to have a chainsaw.

[Peter Kelly]

There's also the Logosol M8 system which can be had for around $3,500 including saw, ripping bar and chain for the basic package. Will handle up to a 36" diameter x 15' long log. Electric powered versions also available.

http://www.logosol.us/sawmills/m8/

[Jim Matthews]

Our own Rich Perry runs a sawmill.

He's got a recent posting with a small box made from his Quartersawn Sycamore.
You can drop him a direct line, clicking his name on the first submission, by PM.

[Luther Oswalt]

You owe it to yourself to look at the Peterson Mills. I don't have one if I needed to buy a mill this would be my choice .... IMHO it is the tops! Much better than the small Band Saw Mill! http://petersonsawmills.com/ There are dealers in the USA I think!
Leo

[Richard Coers]

Just how old of a fella' are you? Less than 45, you can consider a manual mill. Much over that and you should consider a hydraulic. I owned a manual Baker bandsaw mill on an axle, and it came close to killing me from the incredible long effort it takes to work that heavy timber and wet wood. I mean LOTS of work! I once broke a 3" diameter hard maple handle on a peavey rolling a big log. Imagine what it did to me! I owned it for 3 years, cut a mountain of wood, then sold it for $300 more than I paid for it. I bought it at a timber show, so bought it as a demonstrator. That's the way to really see what you want. The timber shows will be starting back up soon. Look at tests in the magazine Sawmill and WoodLot Management. https://www.sawmillmag.com/app/home/index Another great online resource is a forum called The Forestry Forum http://forestryforum.com/

[george newbury]

I'm also looking for a portable sawmill. The choices are:
1) High dollar $$$, high production, fully hydraulic mill with all the bells & whistles. $35-70k+

2) Much less expensive manual sawmill where you practically need to be Hercules if you have big logs. $10-20k

3) Stationary mill that you can pack up and move to another location in a few hours. $3-7k

4) Chainsaw mill. Under $1000 not including chainsaw

5) There are also kits available that you can put together and customize yourself.

I've used a top of the line, fully hydraulic Woodmizer in the past. it's pretty hard to mill wood with anything else after using a machine like that.

Kevin has it pretty much correct. 3) is a little low, most of the GOOD bottom line manual mills are now above $4K by the time you add fuel and blades. http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills is a good site for a blend of info.

I've got 2 Stihl 660's and a Stihl 088 for milling, with two Alaskan Mark III's, so CSM can be addicting. However I've also got a Woodmizer LT10 for a BSM.

For ANYONE seriously interested in milling their own wood I strongly advise getting a 80 or 90CC saw and either buying or building the equivalent of an Alaskan Mark III. The saw will be needed if you graduate to a BSM. I got my first Stihl 660 (90cc) saw for $500 off ebay a few years ago, and a new Alaskan Mark III for $200 so the entry cost to milling isn't always real steep.

For a truly cheap BSM check out http://woodgears.ca/bandmill/backyard_milling.html.

[Tom Fischer]

For a truly cheap BSM check out http://woodgears.ca/bandmill/backyard_milling.html.

Wow, that is really wild. Didn't that that was even possible, given how companies like Grizzly talk about their cast iron wheels, saying that's the only way you can rip.
Kind of reminds me of what the locals had to do in America two hundred fifty years ago and back, building water powered mills.
Had to make everything by hand, make up your own design. I think the stuff was actually illegal (or plans were illegal), folks in Britain wanting the monopoly on manufacturing.

[Jim Shockey]

Rich;
I got interested in sawing my own lumber when I was sixty-five years old and I loved it. I started with the small Alaskin mill and it whent so good that I got the longer bars for it for the bigger logs. As time whent on I buillt a home made mill from the "PRO CUT" plans I bought from a company out of Canada. I've got 2 or 3 thousand board feet of Oak and walnut, all kiln dryed and stored for future use. I sold the mill and got most if not all my investment back and still have all the lumber left to use . Once you get started in milling ,you will never be with out logs.When the word gets around that you are milling poeple will always want a log or two removed from the yard or some place. I would tell them if they would get them on the ground that I would mill the lumber and take the fire wood but they would have to deal with what was left.I sold the mill when I had no more room to store the lumber. I still have the Alaskin and all the things that goes with it so if a spiel log came up, but at close to seventy 74, I'm giving that idea up also.. Tell your friend to go for it,slow and think it out real good be for time and he will have a nice setup that will give him a lot of good lumber and will injoy the hard work that is involed. Jim Shockey

[Al Weber]

I'd recommend taking a look at a couple of forums like the Milling subsite at Arborist.com or the Forestry forum for more information than you can ever digest. The options range from a couple of hundred dollars for a chain saw mill operation (without the chain saw) to thousands for the more sophisticated band or swing mills. And he should not forget about material handling to move logs and lumber. A tractor or Bobcat will likely cost as much as the mill itself. It is an addicting hobby and although it will provide a lot of lumber, it takes a lot of time. You won't easily get rich.

[Keith Outten]

From my vantage point no matter what system you consider purchasing running a sawmill is hot in the summer and cold in the winter. It is just plain hard work if your business involves lumber, even morso if you are working with logs. It is frequently dangerous work that involves working with large machines that are expensive and require serious maintenance. If you do not possess excellent mechanical skills you will certainly be paying much of your hard earned income to someone else who does.

Its a job you have to love to be successful.
.

[Andrew Joiner]

I even asked why he did not just buy a mill and he said it did not make sense. With depr and maint it's still cheaper to have a guy come on site and do it.

Keith, I think your pal is a smart man. Not only the mill and blades to maintain, but also a tractor or loader to move and lift logs. Then drying the lumber takes time ,money and labor.

[Rich Riddle]

From my vantage point no matter what system you consider purchasing running a sawmill is hot in the summer and cold in the winter. It is just plain hard work if your business involves lumber, even morso if you are working with logs. It is frequently dangerous work that involves working with large machines that are expensive and require serious maintenance. If you do not possess excellent mechanical skills you will certainly be paying much of your hard earned income to someone else who does.

Its a job you have to love to be successful.
.
That is good advice. Donn is about 55 and quite mechanical. He's been reading links you folks posted since yesterday and some he found on his own. There are some videos of home-make saw mills with car tires and no blade guards that look quite dangerous although inexpensive. We went to the Columbus woodworking show today and inspected a saw mill out front that likely cost in the range of over $15,000. That's more than he wants to spend.

He has about 30 acres of land with half of it timber. He wants to clear some of the land and turn the trees into lumber he will utilize.He has a few trees about 3 feet across at the stump, but not many. His understanding of what he wants, needs, and can afford is evolving as he reads information.

[Richard Coers]

You're my new hero Jim! Good on you!


Rich;
I got interested in sawing my own lumber when I was sixty-five years old and I loved it. I started with the small Alaskin mill and it whent so good that I got the longer bars for it for the bigger logs. As time whent on I buillt a home made mill from the "PRO CUT" plans I bought from a company out of Canada. I've got 2 or 3 thousand board feet of Oak and walnut, all kiln dryed and stored for future use. I sold the mill and got most if not all my investment back and still have all the lumber left to use . Once you get started in milling ,you will never be with out logs.When the word gets around that you are milling poeple will always want a log or two removed from the yard or some place. I would tell them if they would get them on the ground that I would mill the lumber and take the fire wood but they would have to deal with what was left.I sold the mill when I had no more room to store the lumber. I still have the Alaskin and all the things that goes with it so if a spiel log came up, but at close to seventy 74, I'm giving that idea up also.. Tell your friend to go for it,slow and think it out real good be for time and he will have a nice setup that will give him a lot of good lumber and will injoy the hard work that is involed. Jim Shockey

[Trever Jones]

http://www.norwoodsawmills.com/portable-sawmills?gclid=CLP2hqGR37UCFQWEnQodXSEA-A

http://www.woodmizer.com/us/PortableEquipment.aspx?gclid=CL6LieWR37UCFQyEnQod_ DQAMg

http://granberg.com/

http://www.arboristsite.com/

I don't know much about anything but the Granburg Alaska Sawmill. That's what I've got and its great for what it is. I've got the Alaska MK III 30" and the Mini Mill that was about $320 total with shipping at the time. It would be about $400 now unless you could find a sale like I did. I've got about 1,000 bd. ft. of walnut, cherry, and sycamore that didn't cost me a dime. I just take it to wherever the log is, cut it up into boards and haul the boards out. It's slow and hard work, but I can't think of a cheaper way to get wood. Of course you've got to have a chainsaw.


Great information! Panther Mills look to be good and sturdy also. I use a 44" GB (Griffin& Berens) double end chainsaw mill with a Stihl 075 and use a "new" old 076 Super with a 36" bar.

[Cody Colston]

If sawing just for oneself then a manual mill is all one needs. I have a manual mill, I'm 61 years old and I don't find it all that strenuous to saw a few hundred bf per day. Actually, it's quite rewarding and enjoyable. Before getting my mill, I would haul logs to a local sawyer. He was affordable, a very good sawyer and it was a great arrangement...I would leave a trailer of logs and return to pick up a trailer of sawn lumber. It wasn't, however, as much fun or as convenient as owning a sawmill.

If sawing commercially, then by all means go hydraulic. The bf per hour you can saw will increase exponentially over a manual mill, not to mention the decrease in muscle required.

Woodmizer is probably the best-known brand but there are several reputable companies making both manual and hydraulic mills. Timberking, Baker, Norwood, EZ Boardwalk, Hud-Son, Woodland Mills and Logmaster are just a few that I can think of right away.

A way to handle logs (tractor with FEL, skidsteer or forklift) and a good cant hook or two are invaluable. I have to put in a plug for Logrite cant hooks, too. They are aluminum handled and you will not bend or break one unless you run over it with heavy equipment. I have a wooden-handled cant hook but I never use it. I always reach for the Logrite.

[Jeff Nicol]

That is good advice. Donn is about 55 and quite mechanical. He's been reading links you folks posted since yesterday and some he found on his own. There are some videos of home-make saw mills with car tires and no blade guards that look quite dangerous although inexpensive. We went to the Columbus woodworking show today and inspected a saw mill out front that likely cost in the range of over $15,000. That's more than he wants to spend.

He has about 30 acres of land with half of it timber. He wants to clear some of the land and turn the trees into lumber he will utilize.He has a few trees about 3 feet across at the stump, but not many. His understanding of what he wants, needs, and can afford is evolving as he reads information.
I have been using a Woodmizer since 1985 (LT30) with power feed and power up/down for blade carraige. It was just under $6000 when my Dad bought it new in 85 and it has sawn about 750,000 bdft of lumber to date and is still going strong. Just a few bearings and new belts and new blades after they have been re shapened a few times or break due to lots of use. The woodmizer mills are hard to beat and they do come up for sale used at times and if you check on the Woodmizer web site they can get you in contact with people in your area that have saws or may be looking to sell a mill. I could sell my mill for $5000 today with just a couple of phone calls so they hold their value for a lifetime!

Once you have a mill, you will wonder what you did without one!

Jeff

[Jim Andrew]

I have a Cooks MP32 manual mill. Bought it slightly used in '05 and saw enough to keep my outbuildings full of lumber. Now they are all full, and am planning to build some frames to put more lumber on, and a metal roof that I can set on top of the pile. I don't spend much on lumber.